LOVING LIVING LIKE A LOCAL IN LISBON #6: ANCIENT ALFAMA

In my previous post about the Baixa neighborhood of Lisbon, I mentioned how Rua Augusta divides Baixa from the Alfama neighborhood to the east. Alfama also occupies the lower slopes between Tagus River and Sao Jorge Castle.

Alfama is the oldest neighborhood in Lisbon, dating back to Moorish Rule. Fortunately, the 1755 earthquake, which destroyed so much of Lisbon, spared this ancient neighborhood of narrow, winding streets of cobblestone.

Bruce and I enjoyed exploring Alfama on our own, walking the steep, hilly cobblestone lanes and discovering what was around each corner. We returned another day for one of our included cultural activities with The Good Life Abroad. This was a tile painting workshop at Loja dos Descrobimentos, a family-run shop owned by a sweet older couple. I would show you a photo of my tile, but it was far from being a work of art! Instead, how about a photo of the owner with me, Bruce, and Jen, our community manager:

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Stenciling my chosen design on the tile
A tile picture for sale at the shop
These were hard to resist!
The street where the shop is located in Alfama, across from the Tagus River

Another visit to the Alfama neighborhood was with our group for a walking tour of this medieval neighborhood of 7,000 permanent residents. We learned more about its history, including how Fado, Lisbon’s signature music genre, began here in the 19th century. (More on Fado and the concerts we attended in a future post.)

Walking through its narrow, hilly streets and seeing how the locals live gave us a good feel for authentic Lisbon and Portugal, so I would consider it a don’t-miss neighborhood!

Scenes of Alfama:

The view of Alfama from the top of the hill at Miradouro de Santa Luzia
There was at least one cruise ship in Lisbon each day.
A tile wall at the miradouro (viewpoint)
One of several Bordalo II trash animal sculptures throughout Lisbon
This tile mosaic was created by Vhils (Alexandre Farto). It is a portrait of Amalia Rodrigues (1920-1999), Portugal’s most famous Fado singer.
We enjoyed coming across tile artwork on the exteriors of shops and restaurants while walking around Alfama and throughout Lisbon.
This photo tile of Henrique Pato was created by Camila Watson to honor Alfama’s long-time permanent residents. It is part of the “Alma de Alfama” installation, and it hangs on the exterior of his home.
Henrique Pato happened to be home during our walking tour.

Down the hill to the bottom of Alfama near the tile painting workshop:

Paineira Rosa tree

Along the Tagus River, at the very bottom of Alfama, is Santa Apolonia Station, Alfama’s beautiful main railway train station. These tile murals adorn the walls:

Coming up next: LOVING LIVING LIKE A LOCAL IN LISBON #7: GORGEOUS GRACA

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