While researching Lisbon prior to our arrival, I read one blog where the author emphatically insisted the Baixa neighborhood be “avoided,” because it’s a tourist trap, and it attracts pickpockets. He had a point; it’s a tourist trap, but it is well worth a visit anyway. I wore my backpack in front of me, Bruce zipped up his wallet in his front security pocket, and off we went. (By the way, other than pickpockets, which can be easily avoided by taking precautions, Lisbon is a safe city, even for solo women travelers.)
The Chiado neighborhood, where our apartment was located, sits atop a hill adjacent to Baixa, and there are several sets of stairways that lead down to it. One we used was located at the Santa Justa elevator, on the pedestrian shopping street I wrote about in my last post.
(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)
At the base of the stairs, look straight up to the top of the elevator; it’s quite a sight! Unfortunately, the elevator is closed now, so all you can do is photograph it and admire the unusual structure.
Baixa encompasses much of the walking tour I detailed previously, including Rossio Square, Restauradores Square (where the obelisk was located), and Avenida da Liberdade; however, that was already a long enough round trip walk!
The section of Baixa I will include here is Rua Augusta, with Praca da Figueira on one end and Praca do Comercio with the Arco Triunfal arch on the other end of the famous pedestrian avenue. You will be happy to know this area of Baixa is flat!
This entire area had been destroyed by the 1755 earthquake and rebuilt by Marquis of Pombal. He had strict criteria, including a grid pattern of the streets and earthquake-resistant building construction. My favorite feature of the buildings are the colorful tile facades. I photographed these on and around Rua Augusta:
As you come down the stairs by the elevator, Rua Augusta will be straight ahead. Once there, turn left to walk up to Praca da Figueira. You will know you have arrived when you see the statue of King John I atop his beautiful horse. A seagull seemed to enjoy it as much as Bruce and I did!
Stroll Rua Augusta in the opposite direction, and you will see the Arco Triunfal (Rua Augusta Arch). Enjoy the ambiance of Rua Augusta along the way, but be forewarned: You may want to go early in the morning to avoid all the restaurant hosts trying to lure you in. They are persistent! One after another, after another. How do all those restaurants stay in business? Still, Rua Augusta is lovely, so don’t miss it.
The Rua Augusta triumphal arch was built to commemorate Lisbon’s reconstruction following the 1755 earthquake. The plaza that it borders, Praca do Comercio, is a massive square that faces the Tagus river. Make sure to wear sunglasses if it’s a sunny day. I didn’t, and I was approached by several vendors hawking sunglasses. It was annoying, but still worth visiting this beautiful plaza.
On the other side of Rua Augusta is technically the historic Alfama neighborhood, a must-see area of Lisbon!
Next up: LOVING LIVING LIKE A LOCAL IN LISBON #6: ANCIENT ALFAMA
