Amblers, have I got a walk for you! This walk begins at our Lisbon apartment at Praca de Luis Camois, and continues past the life-size sculpture of the man in the chair and the world’s oldest bookstore shown in my second post. It then makes a left hand turn to take you down the pedestrian shopping street, which leads you to Rossio Square. Continue through the square, and past the beautiful train station to gorgeous tree-lined Avenida da Liberdade and up to Parque Eduardo VII, passing by beautiful Marques de Pombal. Click here for the map directions, but this is a snapshot of the walk for a quick view:
(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)
If you walk straight through, it would be a two-mile walk (one way), and it would take the average walker 49 minutes. But what’s the fun in that? This is a wonderful walk through some of the nicest areas of Lisbon! Take your time, get off the path to see what’s up that side street, grab a bench under the shade trees and watch the world go by, or stop for a pastel de nata. Bruce and I enjoyed this walk so much, we returned to explore more in other days and at night.
Here, then, is what you will see along the way, after you pass the bookstore, and then turn left onto the pedestrian shopping street:
Pedestrian streets are marked with white paint in a design.
Fountain at the beginning of Rossio Square
Rossio Square: The surface is flat, but it’s an optical illusion. Follow the waves!
Across from Rossio Square at the far end is the beautiful train station. You have to have a ticket to enter the tracks where the tile murals are located, so stop back when I write about our train trip to Sintra to see those murals!
Past the train station on the same side of the street (on the left) is this unusual add-on to a historic facade.On the right is Fabrica da Nata- Pasteis de Nata, where we stopped for a snack.
Pastel de Nata: Don’t worry; I will be writing (and showing) plenty of food in an upcoming post dedicated to Portuguese cuisine!
The beginning of the gorgeous tree-lined portion of Avenida da Liberdade
Views of the side streets off the avenue:
Continuing up Avendida da Liberdade to Marques de Pombal Square:
Continue up the hill through Parque Eduardo VII, and you will be rewarded with this panoramic view:
Congratulations, you made it! Now you have a choice to either take the metro back from Marque de Pombal (look for the red and white “M” sign), or walk back like we did.This is us back in Chiado:
A walk down to Rossio Square at night:
This is an overhead view of the pedestrian street and Rossio Square for perspective. This was shot from a viewing platform next to the convent in Bairo Alto, adjacent to the entrance to Elevador de Santa Justa, which is temporarily closed.From this viewing platform, you can also see the castle lit up in the distance. This is the top of the elevator on the right.
To the left is the convent.
At the pedestrian street level of the Santa Justa lift are the Pelicans, by Bordalo II. (More Bordalo II in future posts.)
Coming up next: LOVING LIVING LIKE A LOCAL IN LISBON #5: BUSTLING BAIXA & ANCIENT ALFAMA (PART 1)
In my previous post, I featured Chiado and Bairo Alto, the neighborhoods immediately surrounding our TGLA apartment. Now, I am going to take you just a little bit north to Principe Real and a short walk south to “Pink Street.”
Principe Real, located just up the road past Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara, is a district developed in the 19th century as a residential enclave for Lisbon’s aristocracy. Still an upscale neighborhood, there are designer boutiques, galleries, restaurants, a beautiful park, and botanical gardens.
I am not much of a shopper, but EmbaiXada was something to see. It was even included on our walking tour, because the building is gorgeous. Now a high-end commercial gallery, it was once Ribeiro da Cunha Palace. In addition to fine products by Portuguese artists and designers, there is a bar and restaurant. The only thing I brought out from EmbaiXada were my own photographs.
(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)
One of our favorite memories was relaxing at a table under the beautiful trees at Jardim do Principe Real (Principe Real Park), sipping an ice-cold cola, and listening to an excellent band performing classic rock. They played for tips, and we gladly tossed some Euros in their basket. They were so enjoyable! It was a warm sunny day, and it was the perfect way to cap off our afternoon, following our TGLA’s group orientation tour around the area and our delicious salad-with-a-view at Honest Greens.
Another day at the park, the only cloudy day we had!
Views across the street from the park…
I enjoyed seeing and photographing the colorful tile facades of the buildings.
Our community manager, Jen, recommended having lunch on the terrace at Honest Greens, across from the park. The view was fabulous and the food delicious!Another view from the terrace of Honest Greens
Jardim Botanico de Lisboa, the botanical gardens of Lisbon, is also located in the Principe Real neighborhood. Although it doesn’t have stellar reviews on Google or Trip Advisor, it was free the Sunday morning we visited, and it was a nice respite from the busy city.
I also loved black and white patterns in the cobblestones.
“Pink Street” (Rua Nova do Carvalho) is famous for its bars and bustling nightlife, but I was only interested in seeing it in the morning before the crowds arrived, so I could photograph the colorful umbrellas that hung over the pink-painted street. Since we passed it each time we walked down to the waterfront, train station, ferry terminal, and Time Out Market (more on this in a future post), it was a convenient photo stop. But for those interested in partying hard in the bars, this would be the place.
Speaking of partying, gathering with our The Good Life Abroad group and community manager for a welcome party was a great way to kick off our month together. Jen found the perfect place for it, a rooftop bar with great views. Mama Shelter’s appetizers were delicious, the service was good, and it was a lot of fun! This is Jen, during our metro orientation tour, and our TGLA “community.”
Bruce and I are in the back (center)The view from the rooftop of Mama Shelter
A refreshing glass of low-alcohol cider
Coming up next: LOVING LIVING LIKE A LOCAL IN LISBON #4: AMBLING AVENIDA DE LIBERDADE
Located in the historic center of Lisbon, the charming Chiado neighborhood has been inhabited since the Roman Empire. In 1755, the Great Lisbon Earthquake destroyed much of the area, so it was rebuilt. And then in 1988, a fire destroyed 18 buildings, between 200-300 people lost their homes, and nearly 2,000 people who worked in the area lost their jobs. The fire was fought by 1,680 firefighters, leaving 60 with injuries.
Through both disasters, Chiado survived and now thrives as a bustling cultural and commercial district. Between luxury shopping, museums, theaters, and historic landmarks; Chiado draws many locals and tourists, day and night.
Our apartment, located in the middle of the all the action, was quite the contrast to our quiet active adult community. And that’s exactly what we loved about it!
Shopping for groceries was just a short walk up the street. Going out for a fabulous dinner was as close as a 25-foot walk out the building’s entrance and across the alley. Chocolate craving? Delicious chocolate tartlets were just 120 feet up the street at a wonderful bakery.
There was so much to see just a short walk away that I often popped out to wander around and do photography while Bruce rested. And when we were in our apartment, we often opened the glass doors and stood out on our balcony to watch the action below. Never a dull moment!
Transportation was also conveniently located. The metro station and bus stop were both a very short walk away, and the train and ferry stations were a ten-minute walk down the hill. Those cute yellow trams were right outside our door!
In addition to those iconic yellow trams, what made Chiado so charming were the designs in the cobblestone streets, tile facades of the buildings, street art, and architecture.
Here then, are photos I shot around our neighborhood. I’m not sure where the Chaido and Bairro Alto neighborhoods start and end, so I included both here. Principe Real is a little bit further north and Pink Street a little bit further south, so I will save that for later. And, you will have to wait to see that delicious dinner across the alley; the Portuguese cuisine deserves its own special post!
(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)
This was photographed from a viewing area adjacent to the convent ruins above. The statue is in the center of Rossio Square. From the same viewing area, I am looking down on the pedestrian street lined with luxury shops.
This was a very random sight across from the miradouro (below). I never saw anything like this again throughout our one month in Lisbon!
After traveling on ten small group tours with Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) and enjoying every single one, we hadn’t planned on changing course. But thanks to a gal we met on our very first tour with OAT, we learned of a new (and very different) concept: The Good Life Abroad (TGLA). She had learned about the company from other OAT travelers who had enjoyed their first TGLA experiences, so she booked a month in Paris. She suggested I check out the TGLA Community Facebook page to see what other TGLA travelers had to say about their experiences. That was in spring of 2025, and after reading many posts, we were convinced. We booked a month in Lisbon, Portugal, for September 13 – October 13, 2026.
Since then, I have continued reading more positive posts from other travelers who chose to live like a local with TGLA. And, our friend loved her month in Paris! We were so excited when September 13 arrived.
The Good Life Abroad, founded by Andrew Motiwalla, is designed for 55+ active adults who would like to live in a foreign city for an extended period and engage deeply with the local culture and community.
This is exactly what we were looking for as an alternative to the small group tour experience where we only stay in any given city or town for a few days before moving on. Our previous visit to Lisbon wasn’t even that long; it was for one day during a cruise in 1998. What can you possibly experience in a city in a day? It was barely scratching the surface as a tourist. Bruce and I prefer to be travelers.
For me, I was yearning to go full circle. My international travels began by backpacking through the South Pacific for one year after college, in 1984. I was truly living like a local, even working in a couple of different cities in Australia. I had missed that immersive experience and wanted to enjoy it again—this time in more comfort as a senior, living in an apartment rather than bunking in youth hostels.
The TGLA program includes an apartment, usually in the same building as the others in TGLA “community.” Our group of 14 were split up in two buildings near each other in the central Chiado area of central Lisbon. We were located at Lisbon Best Apartments Chiado Camoes, overlooking Praca de Luis Camoes.
Three days each week, there are activities planned for the group by the community manager, who is also available throughout the week to answer questions. On Tuesdays, we met up at a restaurant in a different neighborhood each time to enjoy the local cuisine. This was a great time to catch up on what we all did during our four days exploring on our own.
On Wednesdays, a cultural activity was planned, either a walking tour, market tour and cooking class, or tile painting workshop. Thursday evening was happy hour, the final one being during an awesome sunset cruise. We also did a side trip to Sintra with lunch. All of these activities are included in the cost.
Lisbon has an excellent metro system, which our community manager, Jen, taught us how to use during our orientation tour. She provided a card loaded with 10 Euros, which we could refill as needed. Bruce and I found it easy to get around by using our card for not only the metro, but the “electrico,” electric tram, bus, and ferry across the Tagus River. For areas not as easily accessible, we used Bolt, a less expensive and more popular option than Uber. It is such a reasonably priced option that locals use it a lot. Since Lisbon is a VERY hilly city with cobblestone streets, our group used Bolt often.
In Europe, many people use WhatsApp to communicate, since it is free. Jen set up a group for us, so that is how we all communicated with each other. Jen would post the location of our next meet-up along with a map link and other information. It worked out great!
Our month in Portugal was a wonderful experience! More details and photos will appear in upcoming posts, but for now I will leave you with photos of our apartment and views from our living room balcony. (I opted against using a camera for this trip and shot all photos with my Google Pixel 8a phone. Although it was convenient, since I was using my phone for GoogleMaps navigation, the downside was the noticeable wide angle distortion on some of my pictures.)
(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)
This little terrace was just inside the entry to our apartment; an unexpected surprise!
Our kitchen included a large refrigerator, freezer, dishwasher, coffee maker, and washer/dryer combo all located behind the white doors. There was also a two-burner induction stovetop and microwave in addition to the sink. All dishes, glassware, pots and pans, utensils, and cutlery were included, along with dish soap, laundry detergent, and coffee pods. There was even an exercise mat and two large umbrellas, in addition to a safe. Jen gave us a tote bag with goodies!I did a double-take when I entered the beautiful marble bathroom. That’s a TV on the mirror wall! There was also one in our bedroom and living room in the 600 sq. ft apartment! We only have one TV at home!This was our building, and that’s Bruce standing on the balcony enjoying the view.Our view!
The view to the right. The electrico came by our building and stopped nearbye.
In addition to a slide show of the northern Spain portion of our tour, I show some video clips I shot of a performance of fado music at a club in Porto.
First, here is my slide show. For the best viewing experience, use a desktop computer, turn up the speakers and view on full screen by clicking on the symbol in the lower left corner of the YouTube screen after the show begins.
While we were in Porto, our group visited Ideal Clube de Fado, a cozy night club, to hear Portuguese fado music. As the club brochure states, “The Ideal Clube de Fado is a guild of artists distinguished by their dedication to the preservation and dissemination of Traditional Fado, the unique Portuguese musical style.” This music was added to UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List, in 2011.
“Fado” translates to “destiny.” As I had mentioned previously, many Portuguese have left their country for a better life elsewhere, and more live in other countries than in Portugal. There is a long history of this, and families are used to members leaving home and never coming back. Fado music tells these stories, so the music is melancholy and very emotional.
Fado performances aren’t scripted or repeated in the same way each night. On stage, the fado singer chooses the fados he or she wants to sing and combines them with the traditional fado music that best matches. In Traditional Fado, only the songs have names, and you can add different poems to each one.
(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)
We were captivated by the performances of both the female and male singer we heard. Here are two clips of my favorite:
As we concluded our tour, one last photo was taken of our wonderful group and leader, Serena. What a fabulous tour it was!
In addition to tourism, Airbnb’s, and the immigration of Americans driving up rents in Porto and Lisbon, another problem Portugal is experiencing is the emigration of educated young people leaving to find better jobs with higher pay elsewhere. Our group met with Renato, a university student, who plans to do just that.
We met up with Renato at Café Piolho, located across from the university. Since 1909, this has been the setting of many political encounters and debates. During the dictatorship, undercover police would come into the café and arrest student dissidents. The owners of the café supported the students, so they put up mirrors to enable them to warn the students in the reflection with a head-scratching signal if they knew the police had entered. Because of this history, it is now the most famous café in the city.
(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)
Looking quite dapper in his black suit and cape, Renato explained the tradition of his university outfit, which dates back 800 years. Worn for special affairs and events, only students who are past their second year of university wear black suits and capes. The cape is the most important part of the outfit, and it is worn over the left shoulder at ease and then wrapped around the shoulders at night. If it’s a male student, and he has a girlfriend, she can rip and braid the edge to show “her man” is “taken.” These outfits indicate to new students who the upper classmen and women are, and the older students serve as their mentors. The university fosters a family-like, inclusive environment for its students.
Renato, who is majoring in business and economics, answered many of the questions we had, including the cost of education. He said public universities cost between 600-900 euros per year, and that he pays 800 euros for school, room, and food.
Asked why educated students leave Portugal, Renato said the pay is low in his country. Doctors, for example, earn only 4,000 euros per month, and nurses earn 1,500. In France, the pay is double.
When Portugal joined the European Union and changed to using the euro for currency, the quality of life, which had been high, plummeted. Home ownership is out of reach, and the cost of living (relative to pay), is high.
Most high school graduates are finding it is not worth going to college, because they can earn higher pay in the trades. After attending a private trade school for 3 months to 2 years (depending on the trade), they can earn a minimum of 3-4,000 euros per month, which is as much as a doctor! As a result, the attendance at trade schools is increasing and enrollment in universities is declining.
It’s not just students leaving Portugal for a better life; emigration has been happening across age demographics, because the pay isn’t keeping up with inflation. The population of Portuguese is highest in Brazil (where the Portuguese language is also spoken), followed by Ukraine, United Kingdom, and U.S.A.
Renato hopes to land a job in the U.K. or U.S.A. where he can utilize his business and economics education. He speaks perfect English, so we asked how he learned the language so well. He replied that children learn English in school each year until they graduate high school. In addition, much of their education is conducted in English.
Like many other children growing up, Renato also learned English by watching television, including cartoons and TV shows, with English subtitles rather than dubbing. In contrast, Spain dubs their shows, so they don’t have that option for improving their English skills.
Following our conversation with Renato (which was very interesting!), we had the afternoon free to enjoy the wonderful weather and sights of Porto:
We walked across the bridge over the Douro River for some nice viewsWe walked back across the upper bridge for spectacular views of Porto!
The following photos were shot at Mercado do Bolhao, Porto’s famous city market:
This colorful choir provided lunchtime entertainment for the crowd.
Porto, the second largest city in Portugal after Lisbon, was our final stop on this fabulous tour with Overseas Adventure Travel. Located in northern Portugal, the core of the city is one of the oldest European centers and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Because of this designation and protection, the tiles that give Porto’s buildings such beauty and charm still exist today.
In my last post, I wrote about the port wine that is produced in the Douro Valley. Porto is what port wine was named after. And the cork that goes into those bottles of port comes from Portugal as well. Fifty percent of the world supply of cork is from here.
Porto is also known for its production of paper made from Eucalyptus trees, which grow fast. Unfortunately, they also burn fast and have caused fires to spread quickly through the countryside. As a result, it has become quite controversial.
Another controversy brewing throughout Porto and Lisbon is the fast-growing tourism industry, which is huge. Portugal is a popular destination for Americans, and many have immigrated to both cities. This has driven up rent prices for locals; and AirBnB’s, in particular, have driven them out . Ten years ago, a (very small) apartment used to cost 600 euros per month. Currently, that same amount will only pay for one week of rent. Local businesses are also losing their leases and being driven out, because landlords are converting their properties to AirBnB’s to make more money in rent. This continues, because the government has no protections in place for locals.
Due to these rising costs in Portugal (as well as Spain), many young people live with their parents or can only afford to rent a room in a house with other tenants.
During our first full day in Porto, we went on a walking tour through the old city center, including the alleyways of Pena Ventosa, one of the oldest districts in the city. It was amazing to think those streets have been there for over 2,000 years!
The following are some scenes photographed during our group walking tour and free time during our three days in Porto. (Much more to come in Part 2!):
(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)
Our first view point of the cityscape and river. More scenes of the river will be included in Part 2.
Our group in the Pena Ventosa neighborhood, one of the oldest in Europe
These buildings face the river. Photos in Part 2 will show a birds-eye view
Between the tile facades of the buildings, tile murals, and decorative sidewalks; Porto was so unique and charming!
It was our wedding anniversary (September 12), and we woke up to a beautiful morning for our Douro River cruise. But first, we were greeted at breakfast with a very nice (and delicious!) surprise:
(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)c
Our tour leader, Serena, had ordered a pancake anniversary cake for us!
Following breakfast, we drove alongside the Douro River to meet up with our cruise boat, in Pinhão. In addition to the two crew, it was just Serena and our group of fifteen enjoying a peaceful ride on the Douro, taking in the views of the wineries along each bank.
Winding its way across the width of Portugal, the Douro flows into the Atlantic Ocean in Porto, the subject of my next post.
The entire Douro Valley has been known for its port wine production for centuries. The first detailed account of port production came from Englishmen in 1678 after they visited the Abbot of Lamego, a vicar and vintner who served them red wine fortified with brandy. The Englishmen described it as “very agreeable, sweetish, and extremely smooth,” and purchased the Abbot’s entire stock to ship to England where it was a big hit. By the mid-1700’s, it was a formally protected wine with a Designation of Origin to control quality.
Tile murals at the Pinhao train station
After our cruise, we visited the terraced vineyards of Quinta Portela, where we learned about the production of port wine and had a tasting with an alfresco lunch, overlooking the vineyards. Each of the wines (and there were several!) were paired with traditional a Portuguese snack. The wine and food flowed, our group had a blast, and it was a fabulous anniversary!
Next up: SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #23: PHOTOGENIC, PRETTY PORTO, PART 1
Lamego, in northern Portugal, is in the Douro Valley, known for its fabulous production of port wine. Ever since the ancient Romans first cultivated grape vines here in the third century, the region has been a wine-growing powerhouse. It is one of the oldest wine-producing areas in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The resort hotel, Lamego Hotel & Life, served as our base for two nights while we explored the area. Located on a hilltop, it offered beautiful views of the vineyards, and it was a quiet and peaceful setting for a couple of relaxing afternoons.
(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)
Douro ValleyView from our hotelThis was the original building on the property, and a modern hotel was built adjacent to it.
Tile mural on the wall of the original building
Known for its historic city center, there was one standout feature that was quite lovely: Sanctuary of Our Lady of Rémedios, built in 1750. We saw it during the day and lit up at night, which was beautiful!
The view from the top looking down the stairs was fabulous!
The Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption was built in 1129
The first thing we saw when we walked into the restaurant where our group was eating dinner
More my taste; a delicious bean soup!
Coming up next: SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #22: A DELIGHTFUL DOURO RIVER CRUISE & A WONDERFUL WINE-FILLED LUNCH
Our third (and final) country on this tour was Portugal, and the Douro Valley was our first stop. Along the way, our bus dropped us off so we could walk along Camino Portugués (Portuguese Way), the traditional coastal route used by pilgrims from Lisbon, Porto, and other regions of Portugal to reach Santiago de Compostela. It was a rainy day and not the best day for walking or photography, but I captured a few shots:
(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)
Our group up ahead, walking the Portuguese Way through the vineyards
Pilgrims
Walking through Ponte de Lima, we came across this life-sized bronze sculpture
You know you’re in Portugal when you see cork items for sale in gift shops!
I don’t even want to know what meat was being sold by this street vendor…
The medieval city of Guimarães was our next stop. It is considered the birthplace of Portugal, because its first independent king, Afonso Henriques, was born here in 1110. We took a walking tour of the well-preserved city center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and had time to explore on our own. While most of the group went to a restaurant for lunch, we opted to grab a quick bite and see more of gorgeous Guimarães.
Pointing the way to Santiago de Compostela, in Spain
Next up: SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #21: LOVELY LAMEGO
