NUTS ABOUT NUREMBERG

P1060708

To be quite honest, just the mention of “Nuremberg” used to turn my stomach, given all the history I learned at Jewish religious school about Nazi Germany and the Holocaust.  Actually, I used to have just as negative of a reaction to hearing the word “Germany.”

As time marched on, I grew up, the Berlin Wall fell, and Nazi Germany was further in the past, I became more open-minded about the place I had vowed never to visit.

It wasn’t until my first river cruise in 2002 when our program director, Tia, raved about Germany and said it was her favorite river cruise itinerary.  I remembered thinking to myself, “Really?”

I ended up loving Germany so much when I visited on that very river cruise itinerary (in 2011), that I so eagerly wanted to return—even to see Nuremberg.  After all, I have met so many wonderful Germans since then, and most of them are so terribly ashamed of that darkest period of their history. I also reminded myself I am an open-minded liberal Democrat who firmly believes in this current election cycle’s favorite DNC slogan, LOVE TRUMPS HATE.  (I need to buy the t-shirt!)  Why should I paint a wide brush of hate against all Germans and all of Germany when the vast majority of Germans are just as repulsed by the thought of Hitler and the Nazis as I am?

As it turned out, Nuremberg is a charming, beautiful, and delightful city to explore on foot, and we did just that.  In addition to our excellent walking tour that begun outside the walls of the Castle of Nuremberg, Bruce and I hoofed it all around the old city, walking in and out of the cobblestone streets to explore the beautiful architecture.  What a fabulous and memorable day!

P1060573

An interesting bridge on our way to Nuremberg

P1060610-1

On the way to Nuremberg, we passed through the Berching Lock with a 55.8 ft height difference!  Believe it or not, this wasn’t anywhere close to the 81(!) ft. height difference of the locks we passed through after leaving Nuremberg!

P1060575.JPG

P1060591-Reidenburg

The town of Reidenburg, on the way to Nuremberg

P1060627

Our walking tour began outside the walls of the Castle of Nuremberg, one of the most important imperial castles of the Middle Ages.

P1060631

The Old City, just on the other side of the arched tunnel was charming!

P1060645

P1060638

P1060650

P1060637

P1060634

P1060735

P1060652

P1060741

P1060756

P1060736

P1060765

P1060758

P1060759

P1060764

P1060757

P1060763.JPG

P1060753

P1060659

P1060762

P1060657

P1060662

P1060742

P1060661.JPG

P1060732

P1060665

P1060730

P1060698

Before 12:00 Noon

P1060701

As the bells chimed at Noon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

P1060731

We enjoyed meandering around the Farmer’s Market as we waited for the church clock to “perform.”

P1060690

At one point, the skies looked quite threatening!

P1060710

P1060709

P1060727

P1060726.JPG

Notice the prices (in Euros) of these truffles!

P1060724.JPG

HUUUGE mushrooms!

P1060721

P1060720

P1060717.JPG

P1060676

This was an amazing miniature at the fabulous Toy Museum.

P1060679

This miniature basket measured no more than two inches wide!

P1060705

We were fortunate to wander into one of the churches just in time for a free organ recital!

P1060706.JPG

P1060770

P1060792

P1060797

P1060766

Upon arrival in Germany, we noticed many VERY long words on signs and began to count the letters in search of the longest one.  Our search was over in Nuremberg when we found this one at 22 letters!

Coming up next:  Cruising the Main-Danube Canal and Main River.

PRETTY PASSAU

P1060307

By the time we reached Passau, “The City of Three Rivers,” my hip was nearly back to normal, and I was able to join the walking tour through the first city established in Germany and located strategically on the convergence of three rivers: Danube, Inn, and Ilz.

P1060320

What a lovely, photogenic, well-preserved medieval city!  Although it has had quite a history of flooding (as the photo below demonstrates), it has survived and thrived.

P1060298.JPG

Have you ever wondered where the saying, “That man is not worth his salt!” originated?  During medieval times, Passau was and ancient Roman colony, and Roman soldiers were paid “salt money,” salarium argentum, from which we take our English word, “salary.”  Salt was a valuable commodity, and it was as valuable as silver.

How about, “Walls have ears.”  Where the heck did that saying come from?  Back in the day, castles of the wealthy were built with double walls so servants could walk between the walls to stoke fireplaces from the back to reduce the amount of smoke exposure.  Out of sight, out of mind; so, juicy gossip was overheard by the servants and passed between each other.

Those were two of the interesting tidbits we learned from our guide, and we also learned that Passau (and all of Bavaria) has five “seasons”:  winter, spring, summer, fall, and lent.  During lent, eating bread and drinking beer is permitted, and beer is consumed in massive quantities!

Our walking tour concluded at the cathedral where we were fortunate to enjoy a beautiful organ concert performed on their world-renowned organ that has 17,954 pipes and 234 stops.  That first number is not a typo, my friends; you read that correctly!  The tallest pipe is eleven meters high, the shortest measures ½ cm high, and it is considered the largest Catholic church pipe organ in the world.

The frescos and ornate artwork throughout the church were so detailed and beautiful, we spent the entire performance swivel-necking to take it all in.  Gorgeous!

P1060250

St. Stephan’s Cathedral was finished in 1688.

P1060215

P1060226

St. Stephan’s courtyard fountain

P1060223

Side door to St. Stephan’s Cathedral

P1060224

P1060249

Panorama of ceiling

P1060231

P1060247

P1060232

P1060230

P1060241

P1060240

P1060227

P1060242

P1060234

P1060246

More scenes from Passau:

P1060305

P1060258

P1060191

P1060306

P1060312

P1060303

P1060179

P1060327

P1060293

P1060188

P1060189

P1060194

P1060195

Town Hall ceiling

P1060270

P1060267

P1060259

P1060284

P1060330

P1060278.JPG

P1060257

P1060274

P1060254

P1060360

Coming up next:  Regensburg