PRETTY PASSAU

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By the time we reached Passau, “The City of Three Rivers,” my hip was nearly back to normal, and I was able to join the walking tour through the first city established in Germany and located strategically on the convergence of three rivers: Danube, Inn, and Ilz.

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What a lovely, photogenic, well-preserved medieval city!  Although it has had quite a history of flooding (as the photo below demonstrates), it has survived and thrived.

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Have you ever wondered where the saying, “That man is not worth his salt!” originated?  During medieval times, Passau was and ancient Roman colony, and Roman soldiers were paid “salt money,” salarium argentum, from which we take our English word, “salary.”  Salt was a valuable commodity, and it was as valuable as silver.

How about, “Walls have ears.”  Where the heck did that saying come from?  Back in the day, castles of the wealthy were built with double walls so servants could walk between the walls to stoke fireplaces from the back to reduce the amount of smoke exposure.  Out of sight, out of mind; so, juicy gossip was overheard by the servants and passed between each other.

Those were two of the interesting tidbits we learned from our guide, and we also learned that Passau (and all of Bavaria) has five “seasons”:  winter, spring, summer, fall, and lent.  During lent, eating bread and drinking beer is permitted, and beer is consumed in massive quantities!

Our walking tour concluded at the cathedral where we were fortunate to enjoy a beautiful organ concert performed on their world-renowned organ that has 17,954 pipes and 234 stops.  That first number is not a typo, my friends; you read that correctly!  The tallest pipe is eleven meters high, the shortest measures ½ cm high, and it is considered the largest Catholic church pipe organ in the world.

The frescos and ornate artwork throughout the church were so detailed and beautiful, we spent the entire performance swivel-necking to take it all in.  Gorgeous!

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St. Stephan’s Cathedral was finished in 1688.

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St. Stephan’s courtyard fountain

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Side door to St. Stephan’s Cathedral

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Panorama of ceiling

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More scenes from Passau:

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Town Hall ceiling

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Coming up next:  Regensburg

 

 

VIBRANT VIENNA

Vienna was our next stop after a wonderfully relaxing full day of cruising on the Danube.  At 94 degrees, the temperature was about 15 degrees above the normal average, and it felt very hot!

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I could have used a dip in this interesting floating pool!

The highlight of our walking tour was visiting the library of the palace that dated back to 1774.  It was stunning!

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St.Stephen’s Cathedral was photogenic as well; especially the 250,000 colorful enamel tiles that covered the roof, and the enormous stain glass windows.  Like most of the cathedrals we have seen, though, there was scaffolding in place where workers were cleaning the façade that had been damaged by pigeon droppings.  Many cathedrals and historic buildings throughout Europe now have screen covering surfaces to prevent pigeons from taking up residence and damaging the stone with excrement.

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There are 250,000 of these enamel tiles!

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Look closely at what is hanging from the ceiling of the cathedral.  These are all hand-crocheted lace doilies that have been stitched together.  I believe the words projected on each of these translated to love and peace.  (I forgot to write it in my notes.)

During our free time after the tour, Bruce and I wandered the streets I had strolled back in 2007 when I had visited with my mom.  There were a lot of changes—many more modern chain stores had replaced the small local businesses and patisseries.  Still, the smaller cobblestone alleys had picturesque cafes and boutiques that were pleasant to explore.

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By the time we had returned to the boat, the previous days of walking miles over cobblestones, climbing a lot of stairs, and trekking up the hill in Prague to see the view below from the castle, my hip rebelled.  Surprisingly, it wasn’t the hip that had been operated on in December, 2014; it was my “good” hip.

Knowing I couldn’t let my hip go untreated, I sought medical care the following day.  We would be in Vienna until 3:45 AM, so I asked the concierge, Renata, where I could go to get checked by a physician.  Being a Sunday, my only option was the hospital emergency room.  There was another gal on board, Betsy, who was having a problem with a leg injury, so Renata insisted on taking us by taxi to the hospital and assisting us.

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Betsy, Renata, and Me

Thankfully, Betsy and I both had taken out Vantage’s travel insurance, because all expenses were covered with no hassle, including the 60-euro round-trip taxi ride clear across the city to get to hospital and back.  Unfortunately, the first hospital we went to wouldn’t treat us, because there was nobody there to x-ray my hip or administer an injection.  On Sundays, you’re out of luck.  Unless you are an admitted patient, there is only one place to get medical care—the other hospital also located on the outskirts of town.  Renata called another taxi, and off we went to Krankenhausseelsorge, the other hospital with a very long name.

While Betsy received treatment for her leg, I was sent off for an exam, x-ray, and injections.  What was thought to be bursitis was calcific tendinitis, and the x-rays showed plenty of evidence.  The doctors who claimed to speak “little” English ended up being a breeze to communicate with, and they were wonderful.  I received an injection of short and long-term anesthetic in my hip, and I was sent away with a cd of my x-rays and a stronger anti-inflammatory than the Meloxicam I had brought on board, just in case.

What could have been a miserable experience turned out to be no big deal, and the three of us made the best of it.  We got to know each other during the long taxi rides, had a lot of laughs, and we bonded.  In the hospital, while Renata went to check on Betsy, she made a detour to the cafeteria and surprised me with a couple of cutely packaged Lindt chocolate bars to cheer me up.  (She knew how much I loved chocolate after I asked her the first night of the cruise where the closest grocery store was located in Budapest, so I could purchase chocolate the following day.  It turns out she loved chocolate, too, and she shared some of her private Croatian chocolate stash with me.  We were instant soul sisters!  The following day, she was afraid we wouldn’t get a chance to make it to the store, so she even purchased a few of the bars I was looking for when she went shopping for herself and gave them to me as a gift.  We laughed, because we had bought chocolate to Renata as a gift!  We ended up giving each other the exact same chocolate!)

By the evening time, the short-term injection alleviated the pain enough to be able to join the other passengers for a trip to the beautiful Kursalon Wien music hall for a private concert just for our group.  After being served a glass of champagne on the terrace, we were treated to a fabulous one-hour performance by a nine-piece orchestra, two opera singers, and two ballet dancers.  The repertoire included several recognizable favorites, and the variety of classical music, opera, and ballet was a perfect cultural mix.  All of us agreed it would prove to be one of the highlights of our trip!

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Kursalon Wien

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Enjoying champagne on the terrace with Bruce.  This concert was a casual event exclusively for Vantage, so it we were told to “Come as you are!”

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BREATHTAKING BUDAPEST

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The evening of our first night on board was absolutely magical.  After dinner, Captain Ziggy took us on a cruise up and down the Danube, so we could enjoy the beautiful lights of the city.  Hilly Budha lined one side of the river and looked quite dramatic with the monument high up on the hill lit up in changing multi-colors.  The flat Pest side featured the Parliament Building brightly lit in gold.  In between, gorgeous bridges were dramatically lit as well.  Breathtaking!  This was sure to be one of highlights of our European river cruise.

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After we docked, I grabbed my little pocket-sized tripod for a walk with Bruce to shoot photos from the bridge crossing the river in front of our boat.  When we passed under the bridge during our cruise, a young crowd of revelers yelled greetings from up above.  It was quite a scene, and it looked like one big happy party.  We wanted to see what all the fun was about.

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The previous day, Hungary had won their soccer match to advance to the next bracket of the European Soccer Championships (ultimately won by Portugal), and Europeans take their soccer very seriously.  This was huge, and the party from the day before just kept on going.  The city had shut down the bridge to traffic, and groups of revelers congregated with plenty of food and drink (mostly drink) to celebrate.

The crowd was boisterous, but well-behaved—except for the blatant disregard for the sign that warned, “PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB ON THE BRIDGE!”

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At one point, a guy started singing Hungary’s national anthem or team’s anthem (I’m not sure which), and everybody on the bridge joined in.  What a scene!

Between the cruise, party on the bridge, and photographing the city around me; it was an uplifting and enjoyable way to begin our journey on the Danube.

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The following day, we were treated to a panoramic city bus tour of Pest, and a walking tour of the town of Budha high up on the hill.  We had a panoramic view of the Danube and Pest down below, and we learned a lot of interesting history and facts about Hungary throughout the tour.

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A country of 9.8 million people, Budapest is home to 1.7 million of their people.  (Perhaps the percentage of foreigners isn’t higher, because the Hungarian language is extremely difficult to learn.  There are more exceptions than rules making it very confusing.)

Exporting machinery and car parts is a large part of Hungary’s economy, in addition to assembling Audis and other automobiles.  They also produce chemicals and pharmaceuticals for export.

Although Hungary still uses the Forint (HUF) as their currency, they are a member of the European Union.

Education in Hungary is very good, and students are required to take exercise classes as well as learn a second language.  Most choose to learn English, and the younger people speak the language quite well, because they must pass a test in English to graduate.

Attending university is free for students who earn good grades in high school, but students must sign an agreement that they will stay and work in Hungary for the same amount of time they spent getting their education.

In addition, we learned much about the history of Hungary.  I don’t fill my head with dates I will never remember, but there was one fact that stood out as being quite sad:  Hungary lost every war it had ever been in.  Every single one.

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Matthias Church, located on the Buda side of the river on Castle Hill.

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The view from Fishermen’s Bastion

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Across the river from Buda is Pest, and the Parliament Building of Budapest.

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The streets of Castle Hill, on the Buda side of the river.

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Following our tour, we walked up to Great Market Hall to buy Boci chocolate bars (for me!), and smoked paprika (for Bruce!)

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Renata, River Voyager’s concierge is a fellow chocoholic and Boci chocolate lover, so we picked up a bar for her at the market.  Little did we know, she was afraid we wouldn’t have time after our tour to shop for chocolate, so she ran up to the market and bought us THREE bars!  (More about Renata in Vienna…)

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Our boat was tied up near “The Whale”

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We had a beautiful departure from Budapest, including passages under (very) low bridges.  Two days prior to our arrival, the river levels were too high for riverboats to pass under these same bridges.

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The Parliament Building (shown above as viewed from Buda)

Next up:  LOTS OF LOCKS!

Note:  If you were having trouble getting photos to load up in previous posts, it wasn’t you (or your computer); it was me!  Photos can now be viewed for recent posts, and I am working to correct the problem in old posts.  

 

BEAUTIFUL BRATISLAVA

Although I had been to Bratislava in 2007 during a river cruise of Eastern and Central Europe, this was Bruce’s first visit to this part of Europe, and I couldn’t wait to share it with him.

Slovakia, formerly part of Czechoslovakia, became a separate country when politicians decided to break the country in two without referendum, much to the chagrin of extended families and friends who were geographically instantly split into two nationalities.  It is now a small country; just 19,000 square miles and 5-1/2 million people.

As soon as we arrived in Bratislava and settled into our hotel room at the Sheraton, we took off for a walk to the old town.  Our beautiful, very modern hotel was located along the promenade of the Danube river, so the fifteen-minute walk each way was very pleasant and picturesque.  (Although, “Blue Danube” is a misnomer, as you will notice in my photos.)

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Much of the old town is reserved for pedestrians with just service and emergency vehicles allowed.  The Cobblestone streets are narrow and lined with outdoor cafes and shops giving the old town a quaint and charming feel.  In the late afternoon, the cafes become filled with locals gathering with their friends after work, as well as tourists from the river boats that line the banks of the Danube.

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It was hot outside, so we opted to eat inside at one of the casual dining spots that brewed their own beer.  A delicious dinner for two with side of veggies and a couple of beers cost only $27—reasonable for Europe in our opinion.

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We found the prices in Czech Republic and Slovakia quite affordable.  Travel experts are spot-on when they say that Eastern European countries are the best travel bargains on the continent.

The following day, our group took a wonderful walking tour back to the old town.  Walking tours are an excellent way to learn about the history, culture, and customs of a place, and we always enjoy them wherever we go.  It was nice to get filled in on what we had seen the day before, and for me, it was a refresher from 2007.

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The highlight of the day, though, was hiking up the narrow spiral staircase of the main square’s bell tower to take in the view of the old town below as well as the castle located high up on the hill behind the town.  (We could have walked up the hill to the castle, but the unseasonably hot weather– 15 degrees above normal—made it an easy decision to opt for the tower instead.)

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The 360-degree view was breathtaking, and I had a great time using the panorama function on my little Panasonic Lumix!

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By the late afternoon, we were tuckered out from the heat, so we headed back along the promenade to our hotel to cool off before dinner.  Between our walk to town, the walk back, and then repeating the whole process again in the evening for dinner, we put a lot of cobblestone miles on our feet!

Our Thai dinner at the Green Buddha was worth it though. Our sampling of traditional Hungarian/Slovakian meat-based cuisine was enough for us, and we were ready for some Thai curry.  Who knew we could get a delicious Asian meal in Bratislava?  It was fabulous, and we enjoyed the ambiance while dining outdoors on the narrow, shady cobblestone street.

Strolling along the river promenade on our way back to the hotel was so enjoyable on the warm summer evening.  Crowds were gathered in the cafes and river-front park, and the atmosphere was vibrant yet relaxed.  What a wonderful way to end our stay in Bratislava!

SCENES AROUND BRATISLAVA

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Coming up next:  BRATISLAVA TO BUDAPEST