FROM GERMANY TO FRANCE TO GERMANY: MONDAY IN FREIBURG

Since one side of the Rhine is France and the other is Germany, it’s quite understandable that we would jump back and forth between the two countries.  Tomorrow, we will be in Basal, Switzerland, very close to both France and Germany!  Thankfully, everybody in this area of Europe speaks French and German, because I’m having a hard time remembering which language to greet the locals in and thank them!  Everybody has been so friendly, though; they just smile and appreciate the effort.  Besides, a smile means the same in any language and I am finding that my smile has gotten me far.  The locals have been wonderful!

So, how amazing is it that in Switzerland, there are four official languages?  French, German, Italy, and a local dialect are all official!  Geez; in America, I know plenty of people who are illiterate in the only language they speak!  Writing is another story, entirely…

Today, we were in Freiburg, Germany, a city that dates back to the 12th century.  Their university dates back to 1457!

Geographically, Freiburg is situated at the foot of the Black Forest.  And, one thing quite unique about Freiburg is their gutter system; quite different from anything I have ever seen.  The purpose is unique, as well.  Since Freiburg is the warmest city in Germany, the gutters were constructed to allow water to flow through and cool down the city.

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The legend associated with this gutter system is interesting, as well.  If you fall into one of these gutters, legend says you will marry a Frieburger!  Hmmm…  I made sure to steer clear; I’m already happily married, thank you very much!

A charming feature of the streets throughout the city were the designs made with stones.

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How is this for a beautiful street feature?

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Our visit in Freiburg began with a walking tour through the old city center, followed by free time, before our return to the ship.  I bailed on the walking tour early, so I could spend more time at the open air market; a great decision, because the photo opportunities were wonderful and the vendors were so friendly and accommodating.

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After a leisurely stroll through the open-air market, I popped into the local department store to buy some chocolate bars in their supermarket, which was located in the basement; a common configuration in European department stores.  On the way down, I passed by the men’s clothing department and couldn’t resist photographing this:

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For 148 Euros, you could have a pair of these, too!  They were suede and quite beautifully stitched.

Here are some other scenes around Freiburg:

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ALSACE WINE REGION: PAGES FROM A PHOTO CALENDAR COME ALIVE

 

When I was a young girl, I remember my father, a doctor, bringing home beautiful photo wall calendars from the office, given to him by the pharmaceutical company reps., during the holidays.  This was my first introduction to places far away that I hoped to see one day in my lifetime.  In addition to Switzerland, a country I have wanted to see ever since then, the French countryside was depicted on the pages of those gorgeous calendars.  Would I ever really see towns that quaint and picturesque?

Well, Saturday, my question was answered.  It felt like déjà vu; I was walking through the pages of those calendars. 

Our day was spent on a full-day tour of the Alsace region; the smallest of the 22 regions in France.  Our guide, Patricia, briefed us on the history of this region, on our way to the wine road.  I felt fortunate to have had the opportunity to get the front row on the bus (for fairness, we can only take the front row once), because Patricia was fascinating to listen to and watch.  (Besides, I was able to get some fantastic photos out the front window of the bus, shooting in “sport” mode at a fast shutter speed.)

Patricia’s story of the Alsace region was quite personal, as her grandmother had been forced to change nationalities four times, as the region was fought over by the French and German; the last time being in World War II.  One day she was French, the next day she was German.  Her children were born different nationalities, even though they were born in the same house- in the same bed!  But, the Alsace region changed hands a total of eight times in history.  Fortunately, now, the two countries are part of the European Union, there is only one currency, and no passport has to be shown; the borders are open and free.  And, even more fortunate is how the Germans and French now work together in harmony and speak both languages.  As a matter of fact, preschool (which is free), is taught in German by a German teacher who comes from Germany two days each week.  Then, on two other days, classes are taught in French by a French teacher.  So, children grow up speaking both languages fluently, as well as the dialect that combines both languages.  This dialect grew out of resistance by those who resented having their language and nationality changed so abruptly.  If the region was controlled by the Germans, French was the forbidden language.  When the French were in control of the region, it was forbidden to speak German.  Today, with children being taught both languages, they can grow up and attend University in either Germany or France and be completely comfortable in either country.

As we made our way to Colmar, a one hour drive from Strasbourg where the River Navigator was docked, we also learned some interesting facts about our first stop of the day.  Colmar has a small Statue of Liberty in the center of the roundabout leading to the town, because the sculptor of the statue was born in there.

Colmar, the capitol of Alsace, also has the distinction of being the location of France’s annual wine judging convention where medals are awarded to the top winemakers.  We had a walking tour of the old city center and time on our own, before we continued down the wine road.  At this point, I thought this was the best stop of the cruise (once we left Brugge).  It was loaded with charm and there were scenes worth photographing everywhere we turned.

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During our free time, I did take a break from photography and found a supermarket, so I could pick up some French chocolate bars and some bakery.  For .60 Euro, I picked up a delicious Bavarian soft pretzel to munch on during our bus ride along the wine road.

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Driving through all the little towns along the Alsace wine road was like being at the Tour de France.  It was Saturday, so several cyclists were passing by; many in matching club jerseys.  The day was absolutely gorgeous; clear blue sky and sunny.  We couldn’t have planned the day any better!

After passing through several adorable little towns with flower boxes lining the sidewalks and mounted at every window, we arrived at our lunch destination, Riquewihr.

We were given money to enjoy lunch on our own, so it was nice to spend our two hours in Riquewihr at our own pace, in our own chosen way.  90% of the grapes grown in Alsace are for white wine, so this is the most popular drink for the locals to enjoy, along with a tarte flambé, one of the local culinary favorites.  Mom and I split one at an adorably quaint little restaurant on one of the side streets of Riquewihr, along with a glass of the local pinot gris.  DELICIOUS!  A traditional tarte flambé is made of dough that is rolled out very thin and topped with crème fraiche, ham and onions, and served hot on a wood board.

Before and after our light lunch, Mom and I explored the cobblestone streets, turning every which way to shoot one photo that seemed better than the last.  Everywhere we turned, there were colorfully painted half-timbered houses with baskets over flowing with beautifully blooming bright flowers.  And, every business had a beautifully made sign posted on the façade; some quite cute and humorous, but, all, well-made and interesting.  It made me realize just how ugly and boring signs are in front of businesses back in the U.S.A.!

The symbol of the Alsace region is the stork, so it was common to see storks on everything from pottery motifs to doll clothes to adorable stuffed storks, hanging on displays in the boutiques.  By the way, the stork has been the symbol of this region for so long, I think this is where the idea of storks bringing babies got started.  I wonder what age the children of the Alsace region learn that storks don’t deliver babies after all…

Riquewihr was quite small, but I could have easily gone AWOL and holed up at one of their B&B’s for a few more days.  But, it was time to move on to Domaine Klipfel, for our afternoon wine tasting.

Alsace wine region is the only region in France that has the name of the varietal on their wine labels.  The bottles are always tall with long necks and mostly green in color.  Alsace is best known for their rieslings and gewürztraminers, however, there are seven varietals grown in this region with pinot noir being the only red.  Since 1818, Domaine Klipfel has been making wines from each of the seven varietals without any blends.  We tasted four different white wines, and, for the first time, I found a riesling I liked.  So, for 7.80 Euros, I bought a bottle to take back and enjoy on the ship during the next few dinners.  For a corkage fee of $7.50, I thought it was worth reliving the memory of a wonderful day!

After nice pours of a dry Riesling, a dry muscat, pinot gris, and gewürztraminer (too sweet for my taste), we were quite relaxed for our ride back to Strasbourg, to the River Navigator.

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Seen on the road back to the River Navigator:

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LOVIN’, LOVIN’ BADEN-BADEN

As you can see by my previous post, I got my day off to the right start!  I was full of energy and ready to embark on our day in Baden-Baden.  And, what a day it was!  After a brief period of light rain, the skies cleared and we had a beautifully sunny day of around 80 degrees.

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After a stop at the Rose Gardens of Baden-Baden, we continued to the city center.  Baden-Baden is located at the foot of the Black Forest, near the border of France.  It is a posh, ritzy, or wealthy city; choose you adjective, because they all apply.  There is no industry or University here; it is mostly a retirement place for the very wealthy.  Homes range in price from 3-27 million- EUROS.  I have never seen so many Porsches, Audis, BMW’s or Mercedes in one place in all my life!

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The city center was quite nice (of course) and charming with a narrow canal running through.

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Baden-Baden has a casino, however, coat and tie is required- and, there is a charge of 5 Euros just to enter.  We took a pass, but the scene out in front was starting to get festive.  Baden-Baden has  big horse races each year, along the lines of the Kentucky Derby.  It lasts six days, however, so there are a lot of festivities to go along with the races.  This weekend starts the festivities, so they were getting ready for the crowds.

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After our walking tour, we had some free time to explore the town.  They had a lovely outdoor pedestrian street with posh shops lining each side.  I found a (very) nice market and scored on some chocolate that I had on my list to hunt down, but had not been able to find.  Great timing; it was our last day in Germany!  The boat left Germany while we were in Baden-Baden and sailed to Strasbourg, in France, where we joined back up with it, this evening.

So, now we are in France and will be saying “Bonjour!” and “Merci!”, along with a few other necessary French words and phrases.

Upon our arrival, Mom and I were greeted, again, by swans at our cabin window.  Like ducks, they sure are curious!  I think they were looking for handouts, too…

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In the morning, we’re off to the Alsace wine region for wine tasting.  This is a dream come true…

MAINZ & HEIDELBERG

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We arrived early in Mainz and were so pleased to be greeted by such a bright and sunny day.  Our day started with a walk to the Gutenberg Museum to learn about the invention of the printing press.  We were all amazed to see so many books on display that were printed in the 1400’s and 1500’s, including the first book printed; the bible, printed between 1452 – 1455.  It was Gutenberg’s first bound book and took three years to complete, because of the ornate embellishments made to each page.  Printing was done on the front and back of each page, so if a mistake was made at the bottom of the back side of the page, for example, the page had to be discarded if the mistake could not be fixed.  Starting over again was an exercise in patience, I’m sure!

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The town square of Mainz was quite picturesque and quaint, so I was able to take a few pictures before we boarded our bus for the one hour ride to Heidelberg.

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My first impression of Heidelberg was that it was a place I would like to spend more time. The market square was beautiful and the castle atop the hill overlooking the city was quite a sight!

Our lunch was at Hotel Ritter, a beautiful old hotel in a building dating back to 1592. Following our delicious lunch, we took a rid up to the funicular to the tour castle, and returned for a walking tour of the old part of the city.  As you can see by the photos below, we were so fortunate to have such a beautiful day; blue skies and temperatures in the mid-70s.  What an amazing day!

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CASTLES OF THE RHINE AND WINE IN RUDESHEIM

Yesterday, we departed the Moselle and cruised the most beautiful part of the Rhine.  While doing my morning workout of walking laps around the top deck, I enjoyed the beautiful sunshine, once the fog burned off.  Our View along the way was of castles dotted on the mountainside, on each side of the Rhine.  What an amazing sight!  And, as we cruised along, Nico did a commentary, telling us the history of each castle.

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Lunch was traditional German fare; perfect after gazing (and gawking) at castle after castle.  We were greeted at the entry of the dining room by our chef with Bavarian pretzels and served tall drafts of Beck’s beer by our servers.  Lunch was a delicious buffet of all the usual German favorites.

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We arrived in Rudesheim in the afternoon and took a short bus ride to the Schloss Vollrads winery, for a wine tasting.  This winery has the distinction of having its wine served to first class passengers aboard Luftansa flights.  And, yes, the wine was good for German wine, however, my personal tastes definitely lean more towards California sparklings and zins, rather than German Reislings.  Throw in a New Zealand pinot noir or sauvignon blanc or an Australian shiraz and I am a very happy camper.  But, I did enjoy our winery visit; especially seeing the tower that dates back to 1330 and the main house, dating back to 1684.  In the dining room, the wallpaper was made of calf skin leather and had painted designs!

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The most interesting thing about Schloss Vollrads wines is the innovative glass stoppers that are used for each bottle.  In addition to the glass stopper, a screw top is used to prove the wine seal has not been broken.  But, the glass stopper is completely air tight and can be reused- in their own bottles. (I was given one to take home, however, it will not fit other bottles.)

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Following our wine tasting and tour of the main house, we were taken back to Rudesheim for free time to explore the town.  I found it to be quite touristy, full of tacky souvenir shops.  But, it also had some charm that made it worth a walk around.  I had hoped to follow it with a swim in the local bad (pool), located very close to our dock, however, I would have had only a very short time to swim before closing time.  So, I settled for a photo instead and wandered back to the ship for dinner.

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CRUISING THE MOSELLE TO BERNKASTEL-KUES

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The remainder of the afternoon of the 29th was spent cruising the breathtaking Moselle.  Of all the scenes I have enjoyed from a European river cruise, this was the most gorgeous.  All along the Moselle, the steep mountains on each side of the river were covered in grape vines of different patterns; a botanical patchwork of various shades of green. There were also quaint little villages with the most beautiful architecture; easy to see, since the river is narrow enough to get an excellent view.  Each one was more attractive than the last and extremely clean and tidy.

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I walked laps around the top deck, just soaking in the scenery and stopping from time to time to grab my camera and shoot pictures.  Then, at tea time, I ran down to grab some kiwi fruit drenched in chocolate from the self-serve chocolate fountain.  Does it get any better than this?

As the afternoon progressed, the only remaining people on deck were me, a few passengers knocking down some Beck’s on tap, and a couple of crew members, along with the captain.  A few times, the bridges we passed under were so low, the captain had to lower the covered area and the wheelhouse, leaving him sitting crouched down in the captain’s chair, so his head would not hit the roof.  Right before passing under the lowest bridge, one of the crew members yelled out to the two of us taking pictures, “Take your seats!  Take your seats!!  We ran to our chairs and sat down with our heads lowered, so we wouldn’t bump our heads on the bridge.

The afternoon was magical and only topped by our arrival in Bernkastel-Kues; a picturesque town located on each side of the middle portion of the Moselle River.  After dinner, Mom and I grabbed our cameras and strolled into town for some exploring and night photography.  Our first subject was the castle perched at the top of the mountain, overlooking the city.

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Then, it got better and better, photographing the gorgeous half-timbered buildings surrounding the square, dating back to the 1400’s.  I even spotted a chocolatier on the square and vowed to return in the morning, so I could pick up some truffles I spotted in the window display.

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This is not only wide-angle distortion; the narrow building in the center really DID look like it was about to fall over!  It was built in 1410:

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The most surprising and quaint discovery was seeing grape vines trained to grow across the narrow cobblestone walkways that surrounded the town square. We couldn’t have picked a better time of year to arrive in Bernkastel, because the vines were full of plump bunches of grapes and they were ripe for the picking.  And, picking I did!  For dessert, I ate my way through Bernkastel, enjoying both red and green grapes.  What a blast!

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This morning, after being greeted by a swan right outside our cabin window, we took a  walking tour with Nico, our program manager; one of three for our boat of 133 passengers.  As usual, it was entertaining and full of information; a great way to start off our day in this quaint little town.

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After the tour, we ventured out on our own to do more photography and pick up some chocolate truffles, as well as a Bavarian pretzel, from a little bakery.  Our 90 Euro cents purchase was well worth it, as it was the best soft pretzel we had ever tasted!

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So, this brings me back to my previous post and how the remainder of my afternoon was spent in beautiful Bernkastel-Kues!  I forgot to mention in my swimming post, however, that I did take a short detour on my walk back from the pool.  For my Georgia friends who are familiar with Aldi, there was one on the Kues side of the Moselle, so I stopped in for a look around.  Aldi started in Germany, so I thought I would see what an original-style Aldi was like.  There was one notable difference that I thought was quite unique.  In the bakery section, there was a huge lit box that looked like a very large vending machine.  Pictured on the front were various styles of bread rolls with buttons below them.  Push a button and that bread roll rolls out onto the tray below.  I would imagine mothers have to keep an eye on their children in that area of the store!

 

SWIMMING AT BERNKASTEL-RUES’ SCHWIMM BAD; A FRIEBAD

Translation:  I went swimming at Bernkastel-Rue’s swimming pool; an outdoor pool.  Rue is on the other side of the river from Bernkastel, so it is all known as one place; like Buda and Pest, as “Budapest”.

I don’t have any photos to show you, because I was afraid to bring anything of value with me, just in case there were no lockers.  It was a one mile walk each way to the outdoor 50 meter pool, located in a recreation complex next to the schools.  Nico, our program manager, found it for me on the internet and provided a map, so I could find my way there after our walking tour and free time in Bernkastel.

I had plenty of time for my swim, since we stay tied up until this evening, when we continue our cruise up the Moselle, back to the Rhine.  But, I intended to get there and back in time for our wine tasting onboard; even though I am not a fan of German wines.  What the heck!

As it turns out, I had no problem getting back in time.  The air temperature today is in the low 60’s and the water temperature was 68!  Needless to say, I kept up a brisk pace, just to stay warm and had to cut my workout short, because of the cold.  But, it was heaven!  I had the pool to myself; I was the only swimmer!  And, the view from the pool was of the steep green mountainside, covered in a patchwork of grape vines.

The pool was a true Olympic-style pool; 50 meters and 8 lanes, with a similar system as Auburn University’s pool.  NICE.  It felt great to swim for the first time in 11 days.  And, now, my souvenir from my swim is the scent of CHLORINE on my skin.  Ahhh…  (Odd reaction, I know, but other swimmers understand.

On my one-mile walk back from the pool, I happily munched the cheese sandwiches the chef so nicely put together for me, while the other passengers were enjoying their full lunch aboard ship.  I attempted to gather a sandwich together from the offerings on the lunch buffet and throw it in my Ziploc, but the chef insisted on packing me a lunch, instead.

I must say, this afternoon’s swimming experience was a unique one.  I have never trained in a European swimming pool before, nor have I happily walked down the street with a bag slung over my shoulder, scarfing  cheese sandwiches with a spring in my step!

Check back soon for a full post on the non-swimming portion of our cruise down the Moselle and our visit to Bernkastel…

TRIER, GERMANY ON THE MOSELLE

Last night, we spent the night in Trier which produces some of finest wines of Germany.  After dinner, we were entertained on board by a lovely classical trio; a violinist, violist, and guitarist.  This morning, we were greeted by brisk sunshine; perfect weather for our walking tour of the (very!) historic center of Trier.

Trier, is Germany’s oldest town, dating back to 2000 BC when an Assyrian prince arrived and named the place Treberis, after himself.

In 16 BC the legions of Julius Caesar set up a simple camp that eventually became a great city, one of the four great capitals of the Roman Empire, second only to Rome in importance.  There are more Roman ruins here than anywhere else north of the Alpine mountains, such as Porta Nigra, the chief landmark of Trier.  It’s a massive fortified city gate built during the second century AD.

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One of the other Roman ruins we saw during our drive through Trier was the Imperial Baths (Kaiserthermen).  When I think about how OLD these ruins are, it just blows my mind!  Afterall, “old” in our country is only 200 years old!

During our walking tour, we visited the basillica and cathedral.  This shot is the ceiling in one area of the cathedral.

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The main square was so photogenic and quaint, because of the architecture of the half-timbered and very old buildings surrounding the square.  In the center, vendors were selling flowers and fruit, and they were surrounded by wonderful cafes filled with people watching the world go by.

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CRUISING THE MOSELLE TO COCHEM, GERMANY

The best part about spending nights on a river boat is hearing the sound of the water.  Our cabin is half above and half below the water line; the advantage (at least to me) of booking in the cheapest category.  I wouldn’t want to be upgraded to a higher cabin, because the sound of the water is so relaxing and peaceful.

During the night, we departed the Rhine and entered the Moselle. And, now, as I type this offline, we are going through one of the 12 locks along the Rhine.  The scenery has been spectacular, this morning, as we have passed tiny medieval towns dotted along the river.  The steep mountains behind these villages are covered in grape vines, leading me to wonder just how the grapes get harvested from such a steep location.  It’s a mystery to me!

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This afternoon, we arrived in Cochem, a medieval village of 5,100, tucked up against a huge vineyard covered hill.  The highlight of Cochem is Reichsburg, a huge castle at the top of the mountain behind the town.  Built around 1020, it was destroyed by the French in 1689, and then rebuilt during the 19th century in a more romantic style of architecture.

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When we arrived by minibus to the castle, I stepped out and felt like I had just stepped into a scene in a postcard or wall calendar.  I remembered as a child looking at the photos of calendars hanging in our home, as well as the postcards my parents sent from Europe and wondering if I would ever grow up and see such a fairy tale scene like that with my own eyes.

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After touring the interior of the castle, we enjoyed the breathtaking views, along with a glass of local Moselle wine that was served in a little souvenir glass we were given as a keepsake

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Back in town, we happened upon one of the largest wine festivals in Europe.  And, what a celebration it was!  Bars and cafes were overflowing and the mood was quite… happy.  This was the scene:

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Of course, a festival is not complete without local food.  For 3 Euros, this is what most people were eating at the festival:

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More scenes around Cochem:

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COLOGNE, GERMANY

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Last night was the Captain’s Welcome Aboard Dinner.  Sorbet was served before the main course, complete with starfruit garnish.

Desserts on board are quite artistic and tasty!

River Navigator, our home for 14 days:

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This afternoon, we arrived in Cologne, Germany, and docked a short walk from the Cologne Cathedral, which dates back to 1248, when construction begun on this massive Gothic structure.  It was not completed until 1880, but is undergoing constant renovation.

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What was most amazing to me was that in WWII, almost 90% of Cologne was destroyed by Allied bombings, however, the cathedral was spared.

After our tour of the cathedral, we had the rest of the afternoon on our own.  Although we didn’t make it to any of the 20 local breweries to sample the beer, we did make it to the Cologne Chocolate Museum; a big surprise to you, I’m sure.  The museum was excellent; larger and more complete than the chocolate museum in Brugge.

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It is now 10:30PM and we are about to continue our travels down the Rhine.  Tomorrow, we get to tour our first castle.  Stay tuned!