CHOCAL: FROM BEAN TO BAR

Posted on January 25, 2017 by Elaine-iaK's Travels

In my previous post, I described the first steps in making chocolate, and mentioned how I talked my way into a factory tour for the following day.

Orlando made good on his promise to arrange a factory tour during our second day at Chocal. After Bruce and I worked for awhile at separating cocoa beans, Orlando escorted us to the machines off the back patio where we met up with one of the ladies. As she explained (in Spanish) the chocolate-making process and showed us the machines, Orlando translated as I attempted to record the information on my digital recorder. As I sit here trying to listen to Orlando’s translation, the background noise of the loud machinery is making it very difficult to hear him! Note to self: Purchase ear plugs for the workers, because they aren’t using any, and they are going to lose their hearing!

Picking up where we left off previously, the next step in the chocolate-making process is for those cocoa nibs to be ground up in a grinding machine to liquefy the cocoa butter and produce what is now called chocolate liquor or chocolate liquid.

Next, the chocolate liquor goes through a second refining process to further reduce the particle size of the cocoa mass. Cocoa nibs contain approximately 53 percent cocoa butter (depending on the cacao species); so, it is during this second refining process that the percentage is either increased or decreased, depending on the desired finished product. For chocolate bars, cocoa butter needs to be added, so the chocolate liquor is transferred to another machine where it will be combined with additional cocoa butter and other ingredients. This process is described below. For cocoa powder, the cocoa butter content must be reduced. At Chocal, they use a syringe to remove as much as possible. Next, the chocolate liquor is pressed to remove more of the cocoa butter. Baking soda is added to the remaining cocoa and the “press cake” is cooled, pulverized, and sifted to form cocoa powder.

“Press cake” is also used to form cocoa balls for hot cocoa drinks. This is what the ladies are making in the photo later in this post (and in the photos in my last post).

To produce eating chocolate, extra cocoa butter is added to the chocolate liquor in a mixing machine, along with sugar and other ingredients, depending on the type of chocolate being made at the time. In all, cocoa butter accounts for about 25 percent of the weight of most chocolate bars.

For milk chocolate, milk powder is used at Chocal, whereas fresh milk is used at Cadbury. (If you have seen a Cadbury Milk Chocolate label, you will notice the logo showing that a “glass-and-a-half” of milk goes into each block.

After the chocolate is mixed, it is transferred to another machine to refine it. Next the chocolate goes into a conching machine. Conching is a kneading process that develops the flavor of the chocolate, releases some of the bitterness, and gives the resulting chocolate a smooth texture. In general, the longer chocolate is conched, the smoother the texture will be. It can take anywhere from a few hours to a few days. Chocal conches their chocolate for just a few hours; however, the entire mixing process takes a full day between the three machines.

After the chocolate is conched, it must be tempered before it gets poured into chocolate bar molds. Friction during the conching process naturally heats up the chocolate. That liquid is then brought down to temperature using a marble table that remains cold due to the air conditioning in the room. The women spread the chocolate on the table using metal spatulas, mix the chocolate around, and fold it inwards to cool the chocolate quickly.

Tempering is a stabilizing process that helps keep the chocolate crystals from clumping together, which would give the chocolate a grainy texture. It also gives the chocolate a smooth, glossy appearance and prevents the cocoa butter from separating out. If done correctly, the chocolate bar will shine on the outside and make a snapping sound when broken in half.

Once the chocolate is tempered, it is poured into molds. The women at Chocal do this by hand and tap the molds to remove any remaining air bubbles.

Finally, the chocolate is cooled and then removed from the molds for packing.

It was fantastic getting to see how the entire chocolate-making process is done, from bean to bar. The machines were so much smaller and different than the ones I had seen in the large, modern factories; so, at times, it was a bit confusing trying to figure out which machine was doing what. Some of it got lost in translation, and much of it just got lost due to not being able to hear! I’m still not exactly clear on which of these machines do which job, but I figured it out for the most part:

I believe this is where the cacao beans are roasted.

After the beans are roasted, they go through a winnower to separate the cocoa nibs from the shells. I think that is the job of these machines.

Once all shells are removed from the cocoa nibs, the nibs are gound in this machine.

This is the pressing machine where the nibs are pressed to make chocolate liquor for chocolate bars. The remaining “press cake” that is separated from the liquor is used to make cocoa balls for hot chocolate and cocoa powder for baking. Here, a syringe is used to remove the cocoa butter from the press cake, so the remaining cocoa can be used for cocoa balls and cocoa powder.

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I’m not sure about the purpose of this machine, but it may have been to further process the “press cake” for powder.

This worker was using the smaller machine to produce fine cocoa powder.

In this machine, sugar, milk powder, and additional cocoa butter is added to the cocoa liquor and mixed.

Here, the mixture from the first machine is further mixed and refined.

This where the magic happens! The refined mixture is placed in this conching machine to grind it to a homogeneous consistency. The full mixing and conching process takes one day.

This is the marble table where the chocolate is tempered.

Finally, the chocolate is poured into molds for chocolate bars and cooled.

Nidia, our tour guide

At the conclusion of the tour, we returned to our group to assist with packaging the chocolate. After we finished, the others made their chocolate purchases while Bruce and I went to see what the ladies were up to on the patio. This time, when we said, “Hasta manana!” they believed us and flashed us big smiles. We would be returning the next day for one last time.

Milagros, the factory manager

When we arrived for our final day at Chocal, the woman in the photo above (with the green blouse) ran up to me and gave me a big hug! Our tour guide, Nidia, did as well. We were pleased they were happy to see us once again.

After we completed our work inside, Bruce and I joined the ladies while our group hit the gift shop. Instead of making cocoa balls, the ladies were sorting beans, so I joined in. My new friend opened up a fresh cacao pod and shared the beans with me. Although the beans are very bitter, the pulp is sweet and delicious! The idea is to suck on the beans, and then spit it out without biting into the bean itself. Yum!

These beans sell for $2/lb.

While we were working, some local farmers stopped by to sell their beautiful vegetables. Nidia ran back to call out to the others, and some of the ladies ran up to make a purchase.

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The time came to say “Adios!” and “No, no manana” to the women, give them hugs, and make our way to the bus for our final ride back down the mountain from Altamira. As I gazed out the bus window during the bus ride, I knew I wanted to return. Bruce did, too, and the wheels in our minds started turning… (More details will follow in a future post.)

In my next post, I’ll show you around RePapel, a women’s co-op that recycles paper and makes beautiful stationary and jewelry for sale.

Meanwhile, here are additional photos shot at and around Chocal:

A local farmer spread his cacao beans out in the sun to dry.

CHOCAL: MANY HANDS MAKE LIGHT WORK

Posted on January 21, 2017 by Elaine-iaK's Travels

My last post about Chocal focused on the cacao plantation before the beans get transferred to the factory. Those little seedlings we planted will take approximately 3-1/2 years to grow before the cacao pods are ready to be harvested for production. May to July is the biggest harvest period each year, and a smaller harvest is done each November.

Each cacao pod yields 50-80 beans. Four pods will yield 1-2 pounds of beans, which in turn yields one pound of chocolate.

Marcia translates for Naomi, the vice president of Chocal Women’s Co-op, while she explains the chocolate-making process.

Once the beans are dried over at the nursery, they are ready to be sorted at the factory. That was a job I nailed! We were shown what “bad” beans look like, and which ones should be tossed aside onto a plate. The good ones were to be thrown into the bucket. While others got caught up contemplating whether each bean they had picked up was “good” or “bad,” I decided to look for the best beans and pick them up simultaneously with both hands. Once I got two handfuls of beans, I tossed them into the bucket. For me, this was so much easier and quicker, because a majority of the beans were “good.”

On Day 2, Bruce worked on filling a new bucket, sorting good beans from bad.

The buckets of good beans went on to the next step in the chocolate-making process: roasting. This is done for 20 minutes, and during this process, the shell of the cocoa bean separates from the bean kernel, and is removed. The cracked beans—now called cocoa nibs– are then transferred to the winnower where 85% of the shells get separated from the cocoa nibs. Next, the nibs are spread out on pans to be manually examined for any remaining shell fragments.

Steven explains how to remove the shell fragments from the cocoa nibs as Erin (right) looks on.

While some of our group worked on sorting the beans, others picked out shell fragments from the cocoa nibs. After a while, the groups switched stations.

As good as I was at sorting beans, I was awful at picking out the shell fragments from the nibs. My below-average dexterity, and my even worse patience with this task left me frustrated and hopping back over to “crash” the group at the sorting table. I was there to work, not waste time getting frustrated over shell fragments!

While the co-op workers (including the sons of a few of the women) took our sorted beans and nibs to be processed (more on that in my next post), we were ushered into a room to learn how to mold chocolate. Molding chocolate effectively requires expertise, so we didn’t actually mold the chocolate to be sold. Instead, the process was demonstrated by one of the co-op women, and we were given an opportunity to make chocolates for our own consumption during the bus ride back to the ship. The best part, though, was getting to sample the warm chocolate after we were finished. Chocolate was spooned into our gloved hands for some good ol’ finger-lickin’ fun!

Finally, we finished our work in the packaging room. During our three days, Bruce and I attached bar code stickers to the cocoa ball packages and stamped expiration dates on the chocolate bar labels, while others in our group packaged the bars for sale.

While we were in the packaging room, we could see the various chocolate processing machines and tables of molded chocolate bars through the glass windows. I also had poked my head into the room off the back patio to see what the workers were doing with the machines there. I was this close to the inner workings of a third-world chocolate factory—nothing like the modern Cadbury factories I had toured in Tasmania, Australia or Dunedin, New Zealand!

It was at that moment the idea was hatched to request a tour and explanation of the factory processes.

I explained to Orlando, one of the IDDI facilitators, that I am so passionate about chocolate and Chocal, that I would be returning with Bruce two more days to volunteer. Could he possibly arrange for a tour of the factory for the following day during our visit? We would be willing to skip out on the molding demonstration if we could just have a quick tour and interview with one of the women. Oh, and could he translate, too?

Orlando promised he would arrange it for us, and he made good on that promise when we returned the following day.

Meanwhile, after we were dismissed from the packaging room, I made a beeline for the gift shop to make a quick purchase before the remainder of the group followed. I was anxious to get back out on the patio and spend some time watching the women make cocoa balls, before it was time to return to the ship.

Preparing the pressed cocoa, so it can be shaped into balls to be used for hot cocoa

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It was at this point I felt most frustrated at not having learned Spanish beyond a few basics. I had so many questions I wanted to ask the women about their life in the DR, their families, and work at Chocal. Instead, I made do with plenty of smiles and my extremely limited Spanish vocabulary.

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When it was time to leave, Bruce and I said, “Hasta manana!” and smiled at the women. They responded with a confused look on their face, and “Adios!” “See you tomorrow? Really? I don’t think so!” was what I’m sure they were all thinking—and saying to each other after we left.

Milagros (left), and the women of Chocal make cocoa balls.

As Bruce and I happily savored our chocolates during the bus ride back, we expressed to each other how we were already looking forward to our return.

~ MANY HANDS MAKE LIGHT WORK ~

CHOCAL: MAKING A DIFFERENCE AT THE CACAO NURSERY

Posted on January 18, 2017 by Elaine-iaK's Travels

As Adonia cruised into Amber Cove, Bruce and I admired the gorgeous tropical scenery of Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic (aka “the DR”). We were eager to start the day, so we were among the first to disembark after our arrival. It was too early to board the bus for Chocal; so, we explored Amber Cove, the $90 million-dollar port completed a year ago by Carnival Cruise Lines. I took several photos of the attractive complex; however, I am eager to write about Chocal. Amber Cove will have to wait…

In my first post about Fathom Impact Travel, I mentioned we would be helping Chocal with their cacao and chocolate production. It is a women’s cooperative currently employing thirty women (as well as some of their adult children); however, their goal is to grow the cooperative and thrive. Helping them to succeed will enable Chocal to hire more local women, and bring more income into their community.

During the bus ride to Chocal, Leurys, a representative of IDDI (Dominican Institute for Integral Development), prepared us for our upcoming morning at the cacao plantation and chocolate factory. In addition to learning about Chocal’s creation in 2008 (detailed in the photo above), the entire chocolate-making process was explained, from cacao seedling to chocolate bar. We would be contributing to many of those processes to help increase production.

I was curious how these women learned the business of producing chocolate. We were told a consultant from Switzerland was hired to teach them the entire process, and educate them on the special equipment needed to process the cacao. After the co-op obtained a loan from the U.S.A., the machines were built to specification and delivered to the factory.

Chocal is located high up in the mountains in the town of Altamira (Spanish for “high view”) where cacao grows naturally and abundantly, along with mango and other tropical fruits. Many local farmers belong to a farming cooperative and make their living by harvesting their cacao and selling the cacao beans.

Having Chocal in their community provides another buying source for their cacao beans. When Chocal is in need of more cacao than their own trees produce, they buy from the farmers in their community. In turn, when those farmers need additional cacao trees for their land, they can purchase young trees from Chocal at cost. The farmers provide compost for the seedlings, and pay the equivalent of ten cents for each two-foot tall tree they purchase. This covers the cost of the bag, and the (free) labor is provided by us volunteers. IDDI representatives work with Fathom and Chocal to facilitate the volunteer process.

It was in the nursery where we ended each of our three volunteer days at Chocal; however, it is where I will begin our tour here, since this is the origin of chocolate. It all begins with cacao.

Once the teams were in place at the bag filling station, bag brigade, and seedling planting station; we rocked! I never noted how much time we spent in production mode (perhaps one hour); but, whatever the time period, we produced. Our bus load of +/- thirty volunteers filled bags and planted 504 seedlings our first day, and 584 the second day. Our group had less time to work on the third day; however, we still managed to complete 403 bags. That’s teamwork!

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We met Jessica, age 9, and her dad, Len, during the first night aboard ship. They were wonderful table mates, and became fast friends. Erin and Erin were college friends who we met during the bus ride.

Leurys explained how the bags should be filled to the top and compacted. Next, a hole is inserted in the soil and a cacao seedling is planted.

Carola (right), helps plant the seedlings. She was our table mate on another night aboard ship.

Gumarcindo lines up the seedlings on our first day. Our group planted 504!

By Day 3, Gumarcindo was trying to figure out where to put them all!

These little cacao trees will be sold to area farmers at cost– about ten cents per tree.

My new amigo, Gumarcindo.

After our work was completed, Gumarcindo, the nursery manager, showed us how the beans are processed at the nursery, before they are taken next door to the factory.

First, the cacao pods are carefully removed from the trees, and then manually cut open within 7-10 days of harvest. The beans and pulp are scooped out from the pod and placed into the top level of boxes in the fermenting room. After two days at the top level, they are dumped down into the middle level for another two days of fermenting. Finally, they are transferred into the bottom level where they ferment for an additional two days before being spread out in the sun to dry.

Although many cacao growers skip the fermenting step before drying their beans, the Swiss consultant explained to the co-op members that fermented beans would make for better-tasting chocolate.

After the fermentation process is complete, the beans are left in the sun to dry to reduce the moisture content from about 60% to 7.5%. If it looks like it’s going to rain, the roofs are pulled over the bean tables to keep the beans dry.

The drying process is done carefully and slowly to ensure that off-flavors are not developed. If the beans are dried too quickly, some of the chemical reactions started in the fermentation process are not allowed to complete their work. This causes the beans to become acidic and taste bitter. If the drying is done too slowly, however, mold can develop.

To ensure an even drying process, the beans are spread out in the sun and raked or turned periodically. In all, the drying process takes about six days.

Once dried, the beans are packed in large sacks and stored in Chocal’s warehouse that is kept cool and dry. Under these conditions, the cacao beans can be stored for years.

My next post will be about those cacao beans that are processed to become delicious chocolate!

Meanwhile, as our tour came to an end, we said “Hasta manana!” (See you tomorrow!”) to Gumarcindo and the IDDI facilitators helping out at the nursery. All of them gave us a funny look, because nobody comes back tomorrow if they are on a Fathom cruise. As a matter of fact, the Fathom website doesn’t allow for registering for multiple Impact activities at the same location. Besides, most people opt for a variety of volunteer opportunities rather than just one. Not me. Between my passion for all things chocolate and my strong belief in the women’s co-op; I was determined to spend as much time as possible at Chocal. Bruce was fine with it, so I called Fathom’s headquarters as soon as we signed up for the cruise and pleaded my case. Happily, the gal I spoke with empathized and did a manual override of their computer system to sign us up for to volunteer at Chocal all three full days in the DR.

When Bruce and I returned the following day, we found Gumarcindo and greeted him with, “Hola, Gumarcindo! Que lo que?” (“Hello, Gumarcindo! What’s up?”) (“Que lo Que” is a special DR greeting that is very much appreciated by the locals, so we enjoyed using that greeting often!)

A big grin and a fist bump greeted us back!

On the third day, I was sad to have to tell Gumarcindo, “No hasta manana.” I didn’t know if or when we would ever be back…

Next up:

CHOCAL: MANY HANDS MAKE LIGHT WORK

Elaine-iaK's Travels: A Traveler's Tales of People, Places, Photos, Pools… and CHOCOLATE!

Tag Archives: Cacao Beans

CHOCAL: FROM BEAN TO BAR

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CHOCAL: MANY HANDS MAKE LIGHT WORK

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CHOCAL: MAKING A DIFFERENCE AT THE CACAO NURSERY

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