MAINZ & HEIDELBERG

10-05.JPG

We arrived early in Mainz and were so pleased to be greeted by such a bright and sunny day.  Our day started with a walk to the Gutenberg Museum to learn about the invention of the printing press.  We were all amazed to see so many books on display that were printed in the 1400’s and 1500’s, including the first book printed; the bible, printed between 1452 – 1455.  It was Gutenberg’s first bound book and took three years to complete, because of the ornate embellishments made to each page.  Printing was done on the front and back of each page, so if a mistake was made at the bottom of the back side of the page, for example, the page had to be discarded if the mistake could not be fixed.  Starting over again was an exercise in patience, I’m sure!

10-04

The town square of Mainz was quite picturesque and quaint, so I was able to take a few pictures before we boarded our bus for the one hour ride to Heidelberg.

10-01

10-02

10-03

My first impression of Heidelberg was that it was a place I would like to spend more time. The market square was beautiful and the castle atop the hill overlooking the city was quite a sight!

Our lunch was at Hotel Ritter, a beautiful old hotel in a building dating back to 1592. Following our delicious lunch, we took a rid up to the funicular to the tour castle, and returned for a walking tour of the old part of the city.  As you can see by the photos below, we were so fortunate to have such a beautiful day; blue skies and temperatures in the mid-70s.  What an amazing day!

10-11

10-13

10-12

10-14

10-15

10-16

10-17

10-18

10-19

10-20

10-21

10-21

10-22

10-06

10-07

10-08

10-09

10-10

 

 

CASTLES OF THE RHINE AND WINE IN RUDESHEIM

Yesterday, we departed the Moselle and cruised the most beautiful part of the Rhine.  While doing my morning workout of walking laps around the top deck, I enjoyed the beautiful sunshine, once the fog burned off.  Our View along the way was of castles dotted on the mountainside, on each side of the Rhine.  What an amazing sight!  And, as we cruised along, Nico did a commentary, telling us the history of each castle.

09-01

09-02

09-03

09-04

09-05

Lunch was traditional German fare; perfect after gazing (and gawking) at castle after castle.  We were greeted at the entry of the dining room by our chef with Bavarian pretzels and served tall drafts of Beck’s beer by our servers.  Lunch was a delicious buffet of all the usual German favorites.

09-07

09-08

We arrived in Rudesheim in the afternoon and took a short bus ride to the Schloss Vollrads winery, for a wine tasting.  This winery has the distinction of having its wine served to first class passengers aboard Luftansa flights.  And, yes, the wine was good for German wine, however, my personal tastes definitely lean more towards California sparklings and zins, rather than German Reislings.  Throw in a New Zealand pinot noir or sauvignon blanc or an Australian shiraz and I am a very happy camper.  But, I did enjoy our winery visit; especially seeing the tower that dates back to 1330 and the main house, dating back to 1684.  In the dining room, the wallpaper was made of calf skin leather and had painted designs!

09-09

09-10

The most interesting thing about Schloss Vollrads wines is the innovative glass stoppers that are used for each bottle.  In addition to the glass stopper, a screw top is used to prove the wine seal has not been broken.  But, the glass stopper is completely air tight and can be reused- in their own bottles. (I was given one to take home, however, it will not fit other bottles.)

 09-12

Following our wine tasting and tour of the main house, we were taken back to Rudesheim for free time to explore the town.  I found it to be quite touristy, full of tacky souvenir shops.  But, it also had some charm that made it worth a walk around.  I had hoped to follow it with a swim in the local bad (pool), located very close to our dock, however, I would have had only a very short time to swim before closing time.  So, I settled for a photo instead and wandered back to the ship for dinner.

09-13

09-14

09-15

09-17

09-18

09-19

09-20

09-21

 

CRUISING THE MOSELLE TO BERNKASTEL-KUES

08-01

The remainder of the afternoon of the 29th was spent cruising the breathtaking Moselle.  Of all the scenes I have enjoyed from a European river cruise, this was the most gorgeous.  All along the Moselle, the steep mountains on each side of the river were covered in grape vines of different patterns; a botanical patchwork of various shades of green. There were also quaint little villages with the most beautiful architecture; easy to see, since the river is narrow enough to get an excellent view.  Each one was more attractive than the last and extremely clean and tidy.

08-02

08-03

08-04

I walked laps around the top deck, just soaking in the scenery and stopping from time to time to grab my camera and shoot pictures.  Then, at tea time, I ran down to grab some kiwi fruit drenched in chocolate from the self-serve chocolate fountain.  Does it get any better than this?

As the afternoon progressed, the only remaining people on deck were me, a few passengers knocking down some Beck’s on tap, and a couple of crew members, along with the captain.  A few times, the bridges we passed under were so low, the captain had to lower the covered area and the wheelhouse, leaving him sitting crouched down in the captain’s chair, so his head would not hit the roof.  Right before passing under the lowest bridge, one of the crew members yelled out to the two of us taking pictures, “Take your seats!  Take your seats!!  We ran to our chairs and sat down with our heads lowered, so we wouldn’t bump our heads on the bridge.

The afternoon was magical and only topped by our arrival in Bernkastel-Kues; a picturesque town located on each side of the middle portion of the Moselle River.  After dinner, Mom and I grabbed our cameras and strolled into town for some exploring and night photography.  Our first subject was the castle perched at the top of the mountain, overlooking the city.

08-10

Then, it got better and better, photographing the gorgeous half-timbered buildings surrounding the square, dating back to the 1400’s.  I even spotted a chocolatier on the square and vowed to return in the morning, so I could pick up some truffles I spotted in the window display.

08-09

08-11

08-12

08-14

 

This is not only wide-angle distortion; the narrow building in the center really DID look like it was about to fall over!  It was built in 1410:

08-13

The most surprising and quaint discovery was seeing grape vines trained to grow across the narrow cobblestone walkways that surrounded the town square. We couldn’t have picked a better time of year to arrive in Bernkastel, because the vines were full of plump bunches of grapes and they were ripe for the picking.  And, picking I did!  For dessert, I ate my way through Bernkastel, enjoying both red and green grapes.  What a blast!

08-15

This morning, after being greeted by a swan right outside our cabin window, we took a  walking tour with Nico, our program manager; one of three for our boat of 133 passengers.  As usual, it was entertaining and full of information; a great way to start off our day in this quaint little town.

08-16

08-17

08-19

08-20

08-21

08-22

08-23

08-24

08-25

08-26

08-28

08-41

08-30

08-31

08-32

After the tour, we ventured out on our own to do more photography and pick up some chocolate truffles, as well as a Bavarian pretzel, from a little bakery.  Our 90 Euro cents purchase was well worth it, as it was the best soft pretzel we had ever tasted!

08-35

08-37

08-38

08-49

So, this brings me back to my previous post and how the remainder of my afternoon was spent in beautiful Bernkastel-Kues!  I forgot to mention in my swimming post, however, that I did take a short detour on my walk back from the pool.  For my Georgia friends who are familiar with Aldi, there was one on the Kues side of the Moselle, so I stopped in for a look around.  Aldi started in Germany, so I thought I would see what an original-style Aldi was like.  There was one notable difference that I thought was quite unique.  In the bakery section, there was a huge lit box that looked like a very large vending machine.  Pictured on the front were various styles of bread rolls with buttons below them.  Push a button and that bread roll rolls out onto the tray below.  I would imagine mothers have to keep an eye on their children in that area of the store!

 

SWIMMING AT BERNKASTEL-RUES’ SCHWIMM BAD; A FRIEBAD

Translation:  I went swimming at Bernkastel-Rue’s swimming pool; an outdoor pool.  Rue is on the other side of the river from Bernkastel, so it is all known as one place; like Buda and Pest, as “Budapest”.

I don’t have any photos to show you, because I was afraid to bring anything of value with me, just in case there were no lockers.  It was a one mile walk each way to the outdoor 50 meter pool, located in a recreation complex next to the schools.  Nico, our program manager, found it for me on the internet and provided a map, so I could find my way there after our walking tour and free time in Bernkastel.

I had plenty of time for my swim, since we stay tied up until this evening, when we continue our cruise up the Moselle, back to the Rhine.  But, I intended to get there and back in time for our wine tasting onboard; even though I am not a fan of German wines.  What the heck!

As it turns out, I had no problem getting back in time.  The air temperature today is in the low 60’s and the water temperature was 68!  Needless to say, I kept up a brisk pace, just to stay warm and had to cut my workout short, because of the cold.  But, it was heaven!  I had the pool to myself; I was the only swimmer!  And, the view from the pool was of the steep green mountainside, covered in a patchwork of grape vines.

The pool was a true Olympic-style pool; 50 meters and 8 lanes, with a similar system as Auburn University’s pool.  NICE.  It felt great to swim for the first time in 11 days.  And, now, my souvenir from my swim is the scent of CHLORINE on my skin.  Ahhh…  (Odd reaction, I know, but other swimmers understand.

On my one-mile walk back from the pool, I happily munched the cheese sandwiches the chef so nicely put together for me, while the other passengers were enjoying their full lunch aboard ship.  I attempted to gather a sandwich together from the offerings on the lunch buffet and throw it in my Ziploc, but the chef insisted on packing me a lunch, instead.

I must say, this afternoon’s swimming experience was a unique one.  I have never trained in a European swimming pool before, nor have I happily walked down the street with a bag slung over my shoulder, scarfing  cheese sandwiches with a spring in my step!

Check back soon for a full post on the non-swimming portion of our cruise down the Moselle and our visit to Bernkastel…

TRIER, GERMANY ON THE MOSELLE

Last night, we spent the night in Trier which produces some of finest wines of Germany.  After dinner, we were entertained on board by a lovely classical trio; a violinist, violist, and guitarist.  This morning, we were greeted by brisk sunshine; perfect weather for our walking tour of the (very!) historic center of Trier.

Trier, is Germany’s oldest town, dating back to 2000 BC when an Assyrian prince arrived and named the place Treberis, after himself.

In 16 BC the legions of Julius Caesar set up a simple camp that eventually became a great city, one of the four great capitals of the Roman Empire, second only to Rome in importance.  There are more Roman ruins here than anywhere else north of the Alpine mountains, such as Porta Nigra, the chief landmark of Trier.  It’s a massive fortified city gate built during the second century AD.

07-01

One of the other Roman ruins we saw during our drive through Trier was the Imperial Baths (Kaiserthermen).  When I think about how OLD these ruins are, it just blows my mind!  Afterall, “old” in our country is only 200 years old!

During our walking tour, we visited the basillica and cathedral.  This shot is the ceiling in one area of the cathedral.

07-10

The main square was so photogenic and quaint, because of the architecture of the half-timbered and very old buildings surrounding the square.  In the center, vendors were selling flowers and fruit, and they were surrounded by wonderful cafes filled with people watching the world go by.

07-02

07-03

07-04

07-05

07-06

07-07

07-08

07-09

SUNDAY IN LUXEMBOURG

06-06

06-07

If it’s Sunday, it must be Luxembourg!  Today, we will be visiting the second of the countries on this itinerary that will be new to me.  We tied Up in Piesport took a bus ride to the capital of Luxembourg, one of the world’s smallest nations.  The country has only 500,000 people and measures only 999 square miles!

Like Brugge, Luxembourg is now a UNESCO World Heritage site.  It was first ruled by the Romans, followed by Charlemagne, the Austrian Hapsburgs,Belgium and the Netherlands.  Since 1443 the capital, Luxembourg City, has been occupied seven times.  Although declared a neutral state in 1867, the country was invaded twice by the Germans (both World Wars).  After liberation, Luxembourg ended its neutrality in 1949 and joined NATO and the European Union.

Today, Luxembourg is ruled by the Grand Duke, however, the government is a constitutional democracy.  The Grand Duke signs all laws, but has no veto power.  We were all quite surprised to hear that the prime minister has no security.  His office was pointed out during our walking tour and we could have stepped right up and knocked on the door, if it had not been a Sunday (it was closed).  Other than two security cameras, there is no security at all.  The prime minister goes to restaurants on his own and is commonly seen during his lunch hour doing shopping in the local stores- completely alone!

Luxembourg is a very multicultural country; one in every four is a foreigner.  And, citizens speak French, German, and Letzeburgesch, a German dialect.  The government is conducted in French, the newspapers are in German, and the schools teach both languages, as well as their local dialect AND English.  (And, Americans are lucky if they can just learn English correctly…)

Luxembourg is also one of the most industrialized countries and a leading producer of steel.  It also has the highest yearly income among nations.

Each day, 150,000 commuters arrive to the capitol city, from out of the country, to work; more than the 93,000 that live in the city.

One interesting fact to me is that filmmaking has become such a big industry here.  In 1988, the government introduced a tax shelter scheme that cut costs of production up to 30%.  The news spread that Luxembourg was one of the cheapest countries in the world in which to shoot a film.

Today, we walked the city with a local guide, then had time on our own to explore, before meeting the boat in Tier.

We made two stops after our walk around.  Our first was at a café, to share a piece of chocolate torte- DELICIOUS!  The second was unplanned; we were stopped by a couple of passengers from our boat to join them for a local beer.  This turned out to be a fun and relaxing way to end our visit to Luxembourg!

06-05

06-09

06-10

06-11

06-14

06-15

 

CRUISING THE MOSELLE TO COCHEM, GERMANY

The best part about spending nights on a river boat is hearing the sound of the water.  Our cabin is half above and half below the water line; the advantage (at least to me) of booking in the cheapest category.  I wouldn’t want to be upgraded to a higher cabin, because the sound of the water is so relaxing and peaceful.

During the night, we departed the Rhine and entered the Moselle. And, now, as I type this offline, we are going through one of the 12 locks along the Rhine.  The scenery has been spectacular, this morning, as we have passed tiny medieval towns dotted along the river.  The steep mountains behind these villages are covered in grape vines, leading me to wonder just how the grapes get harvested from such a steep location.  It’s a mystery to me!

05-03

05-04

This afternoon, we arrived in Cochem, a medieval village of 5,100, tucked up against a huge vineyard covered hill.  The highlight of Cochem is Reichsburg, a huge castle at the top of the mountain behind the town.  Built around 1020, it was destroyed by the French in 1689, and then rebuilt during the 19th century in a more romantic style of architecture.

05-30

When we arrived by minibus to the castle, I stepped out and felt like I had just stepped into a scene in a postcard or wall calendar.  I remembered as a child looking at the photos of calendars hanging in our home, as well as the postcards my parents sent from Europe and wondering if I would ever grow up and see such a fairy tale scene like that with my own eyes.

05-07

05-08

05-09

05-10

 

After touring the interior of the castle, we enjoyed the breathtaking views, along with a glass of local Moselle wine that was served in a little souvenir glass we were given as a keepsake

05-11

05-12

05-13

05-14

05-15

05-16

05-17

05-18

05-19

05-20

05-21

Back in town, we happened upon one of the largest wine festivals in Europe.  And, what a celebration it was!  Bars and cafes were overflowing and the mood was quite… happy.  This was the scene:

05-24.JPG

05-26

Of course, a festival is not complete without local food.  For 3 Euros, this is what most people were eating at the festival:

05-27

More scenes around Cochem:

05-25

05-2205-29

05-28

 

 

COLOGNE, GERMANY

03-06

Last night was the Captain’s Welcome Aboard Dinner.  Sorbet was served before the main course, complete with starfruit garnish.

Desserts on board are quite artistic and tasty!

River Navigator, our home for 14 days:

03-01

This afternoon, we arrived in Cologne, Germany, and docked a short walk from the Cologne Cathedral, which dates back to 1248, when construction begun on this massive Gothic structure.  It was not completed until 1880, but is undergoing constant renovation.

04-07.JPG

04-08.JPG

04-10

04-12.JPG

What was most amazing to me was that in WWII, almost 90% of Cologne was destroyed by Allied bombings, however, the cathedral was spared.

After our tour of the cathedral, we had the rest of the afternoon on our own.  Although we didn’t make it to any of the 20 local breweries to sample the beer, we did make it to the Cologne Chocolate Museum; a big surprise to you, I’m sure.  The museum was excellent; larger and more complete than the chocolate museum in Brugge.

04-16

04-15

04-04

04-03

04-02.JPG

It is now 10:30PM and we are about to continue our travels down the Rhine.  Tomorrow, we get to tour our first castle.  Stay tuned!

AMSTERDAM & THE RIVER NAVIGATOR

02-03.JPG

02-04.JPG

02-05.JPG

02-06

02-07.JPG

02-08

02-09

Having spent a few days in Amsterdam, in 2002, at the end of our Belgium & Holland river cruise, we were familiar with the city, making our visit there today a relaxing one.  We felt like we could give a miss to a second visit to the Rijksmuseum and take a walk along the canals to the flower market, instead.  So, we took the bus with the group to the museum, and walked through the city back to the ship, making stops along the way to buy my some Dutch chocolate and stroll through the flower market.  A walk to Amsterdam would not be complete without a walk through the Red Light District, so we did that, as well.

02-12

02-13

02-14

02-15

02-16

02-17

02-18

02-20

Lunch on board our river boat was followed by our cruise through the canal.  Now, we are on our way to Cologne Germany, as I write this, while enjoying the sights along the way.  There are plenty of farms we can see from the boat with grazing Holsteins and very green grass.  No wonder why Dutch cheese is so rich and tasty!

So far, life on board ship is as wonderful as I remembered it to be from our previous two river cruises with Vantage Travel.  There are 133 passengers on board; all American.  And, so far, everybody we have met is well-traveled; a common trait of river cruise passengers.

The food on board is delicious and the boat is quite comfortable.  Our cabin may be small, but there is more storage than in cruise ship cabins.  We have more shelving than we know what to do with; so unpacking was a breeze.

I thoroughly enjoy river boat cruising, because it is so much more relaxing than on the large cruise ships.  There is no assigned table seating, no casino, no fancy entertainment, no constant announcements and waiters trying to sell you expensive cocktails, and no tendering into port.  Instead, the only entertainment is a pianist at night, except for the occasional cultural entertainers or lecturers that will come onboard, then disembark before we sail on to the next town.

River boats mostly stop at small towns and villages, so the passengers disembark (All 133 passengers can disembark in about one minute!), walk up the ramp, and the town center is right there.  For other stops, we will split up into 3 busloads and take a driving tour, before returning for an afternoon of free time.  It is very convenient; if we’re in town and need to use the restroom or grab something to eat, we can choose to take the short walk back to the ship, then return to town.

The best thing about river boat cruising, however, is unpacking once; the hotel travels with you.  It sure beats being in a different hotel every night!

BRUGGE, BELGIUM

01-16

Just a few facts about Brugge and Belgium:  Brugge dates back to the 9th century and is considered the best-preserved medieval city.  Today, tourism is the main industry, however, import/export and the metal industry (trains) are also important to the economy.

Belgium’s population is 10 million with 6 million speaking Flemish (Dutch) and 4 million, in the south of the country, speaking French.

For those who complain about paying taxes in the U.S.A., be happy you do not live in Belgium and pay as much as 55% in taxes!  Belgium’s tax rate is one of the highest in the world.

Back in Brugge, what I found so picturesque was the canal that winds its way through the city.  Along the canal are gorgeous homes that date back to the 1600’s; best viewed by a guided boat ride.  

01-05

01-17

01-18.JPG

01-09

01-10

01-11

01-13.JPG

01-19

01-31

01-20

01-22

01-23

01-26.JPG

01-27

01-28.JPG

01-29

The cobblestone streets and squares, lined with outdoor cafes were charming; especially the ones tucked away on the back streets in tree-filled courtyards.

Most of all, I thoroughly enjoyed browsing through each one of the numerous chocolate shops that were discovered on every street that branches out from the central Market Square.  The window displays were a feast for the eyes and our entertainment each night was photographing all of the amazing works of chocolate art; everything from mouth-watering displays of truffles to copper kettles filled with chocolate seahorses and shells.

01-54

01-58

01-57

Then, there were the interesting- ummm –objects that were made from chocolate; especially the male and female body parts.  It was interesting to hear what parents told their small children when they asked, “Mommy, what’s THAT?”  I think Mommy preferred diverting their attention to the chocolate ducks, puppies, and kitties, instead…

01-55

01-56

Speaking of chocolate, our visit in Brugge would not have been complete without a thorough look through the Chocolate Museum; a visit worthy of an entirely separate blog post.  (Stay tuned, after I return…)

01-51

01-52.JPG

Hmmm, and while I am on that often-mentioned topic, we shared the best chocolate mousse for dessert that I have ever had in my life!  It followed the dinner we shared of mussels steamed in white wine served with “frites” (fries); a Belgian favorite dish.  (Belgian beer is also a local favorite, so Mom and I are enjoying sampling the fruit beers.  Yesterday’s choice was mango beer; delicious!

01-71

01-48

01-47

01-44

01-46

So, I will leave you for now with some trivia.  Did you know that French fries should really be called “Belgian fries”?  Fries were first introduced by a man who made and sold them at the World Exposition, in San Francisco.  They were the talk of the town.  But, when people spread the word, they said they were made by a French man, because he spoke French.  What they didn’t realize was that that the fries inventor was really from the southern part of Belgium and spoke French.

01-42

01-65

01-66

01-67

01-68

01-69

01-70