ITALY #22: WHEN IN ROME…

…do as the Romans do.  Well, at least that’s how the saying goes.  I had done that with my mom for five days in past travels, and Bruce opted not to do the Rome post-extension of our base trip.  We both had decided we preferred to use our travel budget in other ways.  So, our last full day in Italy was spent in Rome, before flying out the following morning.

(For all pictures, click on the image to see full screen view.)

Our day in Rome began with a walking tour in the Trastevere district, conducted by a local guide.  The timing was just right to be at Gianicolo Hill.  Our guide was friends with the military officer in charge of firing off the noon cannon that day, so we were invited down to meet him and have a closer look.

Prior to December 1, 1847, the sound of numerous Roman tower bells would sound at noon.  The thing is, “noon” meant something slightly different to each bell ringer.  The ringing would go on and on.  That was until Pope PIO IX decided it was time to coordinate the official time by replacing the bell ringing with a single gunshot, fired from Castel Sant’Angelo.

This traditional gunshot was kept there throughout the period of Italy reunification, until 1903.  It was then transferred for a few months to the slopes of Monte Mario, and then finally to Gianicolo Hill.  It is currently shot off by a 105/22 howitzer model 14/61 nicknamed “the monster.”  It sounded like a monster; the shot was loud!

We continued walking through the quaint cobbled streets of the Trastevere district before ending our tour at Tonnarello for lunch.  The place was bustling, but somehow, they cranked out delicious pasta and dessert.

After moving on to our hotel and settling in, Ben led us through the busy streets of Rome to see the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain, before turning us loose on our own until our farewell dinner. 

People park their cars any way and any place they can. It pays to have a Smart Car or something even smaller!
Above the Spanish Steps.
Descending the Spanish Steps and looking back up to the top.
It was too crowded at the Trevi Fountain to shoot a wide angle shot with the water, so I shot just above the heads of everybody in front of me.
I worked my way up to the front!

Being in Rome brought back memories for me—especially since I had run into people I knew when I was there last time, walking with my Mom from the Trevi Fountain to the Spanish Steps. 

At the time, in 1998, I had been working at the University Club, in San Diego; and, one of the former mayors of the city, Roger Hedgecock, was a member I had served at the club.  At the time, he was a radio talk show host, and had led a tour to Italy.  When I saw him in Rome, he was talking with his group on a very crowded piazza.  I went up to say hello, and I heard a voice from the back of the group say excitedly, “I know you!  You serve us at the University Club!”  It was Dr. Vance and his wife, two of my regulars at the club!  Imagine, late in the afternoon, in a VERY crowded European city, running into somebody you knew from the United States.  What were the chances?  The story ended up in a newspaper column in the San Diego Union-Tribune.

Our wonderful Italian adventure concluded with most of our group joining together on the rooftop of our hotel for a final drink and to reminisce about our times together.  It was difficult saying goodbye to our tour leader, Ben, the following day; we had bonded with our new Italian friend.

Less that three weeks after returning home, we took off again—this time with Road Scholar for a tour of the Grand Circle of National Parks in Utah.  Stay tuned; I will start posting those pictures in the coming days.

Note: If small group travel is of interest to you, I highly recommend Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT). Although Bruce and I travel together, they do not charge a single supplement for those who travel on their own. Singles also get their own room at hotels. If you book, you can get $100 off your trip by providing my name and customer number (Elaine Krugman, #3018126) as the person who referred you. I will also get $100 off future travel– a win-win!

ITALY: PLANES, TRAINS, AND AUTOMOBILES

We have a friend, a Delta flight attendant, who used to live in southern Italy and returns each year to visit friends.  He books the Villa Crawford, in San Nicola Arcella, and then aims to get all of the rooms rented by friends.  When he asked if we wanted to join him and rent one of the five bedrooms, it sounded like a great opportunity to be shown the area by a former local who speaks the language and would be able to show us around.  It sounded like a great adventure!

Even though we live near Atlanta, Delta’s hub and the busiest airport in the world, we knew getting to San Nicola Arcella, in Calabria, Italy would not be easy.  It would require a flight to Rome with an overnight stay near the train station, and then a four-hour train ride the following day to a town where we would be renting two cars for the seven of us.  We would then drive to the villa, which (thankfully!) wasn’t too far away.

A plane, train, and then an automobile.  After our week at the villa, we would be doing the same thing in reverse.

What we didn’t realize last year when we made the commitment was just how much flights to Europe had gone up in price!  A September economy-class flight from Atlanta to Rome was almost $3,700 for the two of us before purchasing travel insurance.  Our Delta friends got to fly free.

In all, between the cost of flight, rental car, trains, and accommodations; the per-day cost of our ten-day trip was quite a bit more than a small-group tour with a highly-recommended company such as Vantage Travel (which we have traveled with and would recommend) or Overseas Adventure Travel (which several of our friends have traveled with extensively).

IMG-20190904-WA0003

If you do go to Rome and need a comfortable accommodation at a reasonable price (for Rome), stay at the Aelius Guest House, conveniently located within walking distance to the train station.  At about 100 Euros per night with continental breakfast, it was a great value.

P1300006.jpg

The view out our window at the Aelius Guest House, in Rome.

P1290995.jpg

P1300005.jpg

Another view from our room.

P1300004

Upon arrival, we walked around the neighborhood near our guest house, so we could stay awake and get on Rome time.

Villa Crawford, in San Nicola Arcella, was beautiful, reasonably priced, and had breathtaking views.  It was even less expensive than our Rome accommodation and included a fabulous breakfast that we enjoyed each morning out on deck with incredible views.  Andrea, the owner, was also very accommodating and couldn’t have been a nicer guy.

P1300266.JPG

That’s Bruce waving from the sun deck (below).

P1300017.jpg

P1300060.jpg

P1300045.jpg

The view from our room

P1300052

P1300015.jpg

P1300184.jpg

P1300071.jpg

The most enjoyable thing about staying at Villa Crawford was enjoying the sunsets.  Wow!

P1300022.jpg

P1300377

P1300374

P1300274.jpg

P1300381.jpg

P1300204.jpg

P1300383.jpg

P1300209.jpg

P1300065.jpg

The villa’s location did present some challenges, however, due to the extremely steep road leading in and out of the villa and down to the beach.  Knowing that ahead of time, we agreed to go only if we would not have to do any of the driving.  As it turned out, though, the location also made it difficult for us to be more independent.  My hopes of a daily morning swim in the beautiful Mediterranean Sea below were also logistically not practical.

P1300368

P1300365

P1300369

Our neighbor’s house down the road from us.  Cool gate!

P1300371

A very steep climb back up to Villa Crawford!

P1300038

Our first dinner was on the patio at Fa Tu, where we enjoyed delicious pizzas that were reasonably priced at about 8 Euros each (see below).

P1300041.jpg

Fa Tu’s inside dining area.

 

In my next post, I will show you around San Nicola Arcella, a charming town that I really enjoyed exploring on foot.