ARGENTINA & CHILE #19: A VISIT TO THE INDIGENOUS GUARANI COMMUNITY

Welcome to the jungle!  I was excited to have the opportunity to visit the indigenous Guarani community of 1,500 residents in the jungle of Puerto Iguazu.  The Guarani people have always been nomads, so that “1,500” is really +/- depending on the day.  As a native nation, they can move freely between Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay without having to go through border check.  There are five Guarani communities in the region, and they walk between them, rather than use horses or other modes of transportation.  They will only use a bus to travel to communities outside of the region.

(For all photos, especially panoramas, click on the image for a full screen view.)

We first boarded an open-air covered truck to drive to the community, and then walked the rich clay-soil path through the jungle to meet with Delphin, the village spiritual leader.  He taught us their version of greeting one another: “Ou-ja-ve-tay,” said face-to-face with your hands up, palms facing the other person, and looking them directly in the eye.  It is the way to say hello, show respect for the other person, and respect for the earth.

Although the Guarani people can afford shoes, they choose to be barefoot, so they can always be in touch with the earth.  They also choose to live modestly with only the necessities.

Since Spanish is the national language of Argentina, they are given a Spanish “official” name at birth.  But in their community, the spiritual leader will give a native name that has a special meaning. 

Delphin demonstrated how they used to catch their food with a small model of a handmade wood trap.  The rope of the trap was made from the bark of philodendron plants. They are no longer permitted to hunt, so they must purchase their meat at a store.

To earn money, the villagers make and sell their handicrafts, including beautiful baskets and wood carvings of native animals.  They grow their own food, so this money is used for clothes and other necessities.

Notice the necklaces Delphin is wearing?  These are handmade and worn as identification, blessed by the spiritual leader.  Each person wears them differently and the quantity they wear differs.  Before he died two years ago, Delphin’s grandfather was the previous spiritual leader of his community and had blessed the necklaces Delphin was wearing in his memory.

Delphin’s mother prepared some snacks for us, including Mbeju, a starch cake served with honey.  We were also treated to a performance by some children of the village.

Learning about the culture of the Guarani community was fascinating and memorable—a highlight of our time in Argentina.  To remember the day, I bought a small basket and a few of the small carved animals.

Guarani School

Following our visit, we had lunch at a beautiful restaurant and gardens just outside of the Guarani community.  We first toured the gardens, which included yerba mate trees, source of the traditional Argentinian drink, mate, which I wrote about previously.  I smiled when I saw the trees, because our local guide, Manu, ALWAYS had his mate in arm and mate vessel in hand!

The orchid and butterfly house was beautiful:

For lunch, we enjoyed a sampling of traditional regional food, which was delicious:

The side of the restaurant’s front desk.

The remainder of the afternoon was free, so we enjoyed spending it in Puerto Iguazu and enjoying the views from our hotel:

Next up:  ARGENTINA & CHILE #20:  ABOVE AND BELOW(!) THE ARGENTINIAN SIDE OF IGUAZU FALLS

ARGENTINA & CHILE #18:  INCREDIBLE IGUAZU FALLS

Off again for another flight!  We had never been on a tour with so many flights, but there was no way around it.  Besides, there was no way we were going to miss the post-extension and not see Iguazu Falls!  We had been to Niagara Falls and were mesmerized and in awe of how large and powerful it was.  Well, Niagara Falls (167 feet high and 3,947 feet wide) are small compared to Iguazu Falls, which measure as high as 269 feet and are 8,858 feet wide! 

The falls can be viewed from both Brazil and Argentina because they are located on the eastern-most tip of Argentina and surrounded by Brazil and Paraguay.  We were going to get to view the falls from both countries.

After arriving in Iguazu, we crossed the border into Brazil and changed buses, drivers, and guides.  Ola Manuel (“Manu”)!  More about Manu in my next post, but he was a terrific guide! 

We headed straight to Iguazu Falls, which is comprised of 275 waterfalls, the largest waterfall system in the world!  There were several viewing platforms to see the falls from different perspectives as well as a walkway built over the water to get an up-close and personal (and very refreshing!) view of the falls.  The volume of water pouring over those falls (61,000 cubic feet per second!), was so powerful that a constant mist was present.  It was impossible to keep my camera lens dry, but the cold water was a glorious relief from the heat!  I got completely soaked (on purpose), which was a lifesaver during the hike up the hill to get more of a birds-eye view.

The sky was a bit mucky, so my photos aren’t pretty like the ones in that Wikipedia link.  I think they will give you a pretty good idea of what we saw, though:

(For all photos, especially panoramas, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Getting ready to depart Buenos Aires

Wildlife seen on the walking trail overlooking the falls:

This is a South American Coati, in the raccoon family.

Following our visit to the Brazil side of Iguazu Falls, we crossed back into Argentina and headed to Puerto Iguazu, our home base for three nights.  We learned from Manu that since the city is situated on the borders of Brazil and Paraguay, the 82,000+ residents are a mix from those two countries in addition to Argentina.  As a result, the food, language, and culture is a bend of all three.  Spanish, Portuguese, and the language of the Guarani natives can all be heard in this tourist city.  And, 70% of the residents work in tourism-related jobs, because Iguazu Falls is the most visited National Park in Argentina.

Our hotel, Amerian Portal Del Iguazu, was beautifully situated on the river where we could see Brazil straight across the river and Paraguay across to the right.  A short walk away was the Three Borders Landmark where there were more beautiful views of all three countries.  Although our room didn’t have a view of the river, we looked out from our balcony to lush jungle views as far as the eye could see.  On the roof of the multi-story hotel, there was a beautiful outdoor bar with amazing views:

See where it says Argentina? Our hotel was the tall building above and to the left.
The view from the hotel’s rooftop bar. That’s Brazil on the right and Paraguay on the left.

During the evening, our group gathered for a wonderful dinner in the hotel’s restaurant overlooking the pool and the lit-up Ferris wheel across the river in Brazil.  It was beautiful!

Coming up next: ARGENTINA & CHILE #19: A VISIT TO THE INDIGENOUS GUARANI COMMUNITY