SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #24: PHOTOGENIC, PRETTY PORTO, PART 2

In addition to tourism, Airbnb’s, and the immigration of Americans driving up rents in Porto and Lisbon, another problem Portugal is experiencing is the emigration of educated young people leaving to find better jobs with higher pay elsewhere. Our group met with Renato, a university student, who plans to do just that.

We met up with Renato at Café Piolho, located across from the university. Since 1909, this has been the setting of many political encounters and debates. During the dictatorship, undercover police would come into the café and arrest student dissidents. The owners of the café supported the students, so they put up mirrors to enable them to warn the students in the reflection with a head-scratching signal if they knew the police had entered. Because of this history, it is now the most famous café in the city.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Looking quite dapper in his black suit and cape, Renato explained the tradition of his university outfit, which dates back 800 years.  Worn for special affairs and events, only students who are past their second year of university wear black suits and capes. The cape is the most important part of the outfit, and it is worn over the left shoulder at ease and then wrapped around the shoulders at night. If it’s a male student, and he has a girlfriend, she can rip and braid the edge to show “her man” is “taken.” These outfits indicate to new students who the upper classmen and women are, and the older students serve as their mentors. The university fosters a family-like, inclusive environment for its students.

Renato, who is majoring in business and economics, answered many of the questions we had, including the cost of education. He said public universities cost between 600-900 euros per year, and that he pays 800 euros for school, room, and food.

Asked why educated students leave Portugal, Renato said the pay is low in his country. Doctors, for example, earn only 4,000 euros per month, and nurses earn 1,500. In France, the pay is double.

When Portugal joined the European Union and changed to using the euro for currency, the quality of life, which had been high, plummeted. Home ownership is out of reach, and the cost of living (relative to pay), is high.

Most high school graduates are finding it is not worth going to college, because they can earn higher pay in the trades. After attending a private trade school for 3 months to 2 years (depending on the trade), they can earn a minimum of 3-4,000 euros per month, which is as much as a doctor! As a result, the attendance at trade schools is increasing and enrollment in universities is declining.

It’s not just students leaving Portugal for a better life; emigration has been happening across age demographics, because the pay isn’t keeping up with inflation. The population of Portuguese is highest in Brazil (where the Portuguese language is also spoken), followed by Ukraine, United Kingdom, and U.S.A.

Renato hopes to land a job in the U.K. or U.S.A. where he can utilize his business and economics education.  He speaks perfect English, so we asked how he learned the language so well. He replied that children learn English in school each year until they graduate high school. In addition, much of their education is conducted in English.

Like many other children growing up, Renato also learned English by watching television, including cartoons and TV shows, with English subtitles rather than dubbing. In contrast, Spain dubs their shows, so they don’t have that option for improving their English skills.

Following our conversation with Renato (which was very interesting!), we had the afternoon free to enjoy the wonderful weather and sights of Porto:

We walked across the bridge over the Douro River for some nice views
We walked back across the upper bridge for spectacular views of Porto!

The following photos were shot at Mercado do Bolhao, Porto’s famous city market:

This colorful choir provided lunchtime entertainment for the crowd.
We enjoyed this cod pie from Mercado das Empadas
I bought some chocolate from this guy
This huge “can of sardines” was on the upper level of the market; LOVE IT!

Next up: SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #25: A SLIDE SHOW OF NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGUESE FADO MUSIC

SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #23: PHOTOGENIC, PRETTY PORTO, PART 1

Porto, the second largest city in Portugal after Lisbon, was our final stop on this fabulous tour with Overseas Adventure Travel. Located in northern Portugal, the core of the city is one of the oldest European centers and listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Because of this designation and protection, the tiles that give Porto’s buildings such beauty and charm still exist today.

In my last post, I wrote about the port wine that is produced in the Douro Valley. Porto is what port wine was named after. And the cork that goes into those bottles of port comes from Portugal as well. Fifty percent of the world supply of cork is from here.

Porto is also known for its production of paper made from Eucalyptus trees, which grow fast. Unfortunately, they also burn fast and have caused fires to spread quickly through the countryside. As a result, it has become quite controversial.

Another controversy brewing throughout Porto and Lisbon is the fast-growing tourism industry, which is huge. Portugal is a popular destination for Americans, and many have immigrated to both cities. This has driven up rent prices for locals; and AirBnB’s, in particular, have driven them out . Ten years ago, a (very small) apartment used to cost 600 euros per month. Currently, that same amount will only pay for one week of rent. Local businesses are also losing their leases and being driven out, because landlords are converting their properties to AirBnB’s to make more money in rent. This continues, because the government has no protections in place for locals.

Due to these rising costs in Portugal (as well as Spain), many young people live with their parents or can only afford to rent a room in a house with other tenants.

During our first full day in Porto, we went on a walking tour through the old city center, including the alleyways of Pena Ventosa, one of the oldest districts in the city. It was amazing to think those streets have been there for over 2,000 years!

The following are some scenes photographed during our group walking tour and free time during our three days in Porto. (Much more to come in Part 2!):

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Our first view point of the cityscape and river. More scenes of the river will be included in Part 2.
Our group in the Pena Ventosa neighborhood, one of the oldest in Europe
These buildings face the river. Photos in Part 2 will show a birds-eye view
Between the tile facades of the buildings, tile murals, and decorative sidewalks; Porto was so unique and charming!
This balcony got a LOT of attention from the pedestrians down below!
Sign translation: “Dress well and cheaply only here”
Porto City Hall, late in the afternoon…
…and at sunset.

Coming up next: SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #24: PHOTOGENIC, PRETTY PORTO, PART 2