Tag Archives: OAT

SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #5: BEAUTIFUL BAYONNE

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Bayonne, like the other towns we visited in southwestern France, is in the Basque Country.  Its history stretches back more than 2,000 years, so it is full of culture, beautiful architecture.

Built along the intersection of two rivers, it is located quite close to the Spanish border and has a population of more than 53,000 people.  My favorite part of its history is that it became the unofficial chocolate capital of France in the 17th century.  Cacao beans were first brought home to Spain by the Spanish colonists upon their return from South America.  Since Bayonne was right next door, they got in on the action when Jews fleeing the Spanish Inquisition relocated in nearby Bayonne and started producing chocolate. Back then, there were 60 chocolatiers that all worked together to grow the industry, but each one had its own specialty

Currently there are about ten high-end chocolatiers in town, including Chocolat Cazenave, which has been making chocolate since 1854.  I enjoyed stopping in at a few of the chocolatiers to look at their beautiful creations but took a pass on purchasing their pricey masterpieces.

An interesting part of Bayonne’s history began in the 1930’s when the Basque people sought autonomy and started a separatist movement.  Although it culminated in a statute of autonomy in 1936, Spain’s dictator, Francisco Franco, abolished it when he came in power in 1939.  The struggle continued for another twenty years until a faction of the Basque’s National Party broke away and launched a campaign of terrorism against the Spanish central government, making Basque regionalism one of the most destabilizing forces in Spanish political life.

During our walking tour the morning following our arrival, we stopped by an ETA clubhouse and saw some of the political murals nearby, which were explained by Tom, our tour leader:

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Basque prisoners that were disappeared

The views of the colorful half-timbered buildings along the rivers were charming and quite photogenic, especially in the late afternoon sun:

More scenes from around Bayonne during our two days in town:

The Basque flag hangs from the balcony
Some of the businesses had plaques in the front listing the history of the owners and what type of business it was each time.
There were also signs to be respectful of those historic buildings!
Down the street from our hotel
The view from our hotel room (left)
The view from our hotel room (right)
Distorted panorama of the sweeping view to the left, and then right from our hotel window
Just before dusk
The riverfront at dusk

Coming up next: SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #6: BEAUTIFUL BAYONNE

SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #4: ATTRACTIVE AUCH

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Our OAT group left Carcassonne with Bayonne being our final destination for the day.  Along the way, we stopped in Auch for a walking tour led by Tom, our tour leader, for the pre-extension portion of our tour.

Auch, in southwestern France, is a small, 800-year-old town of less than 23,000 people.  It was too small to spend a lot of time in, but it was a lovely day for a walking tour and an al fresco lunch.

There was a wedding in progress at the Auch Cathedral, but we quietly scampered in to have a look around the areas where we could stay out of sight.  A national monument, the interior was beautiful.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

It was also market day, so we had a quick look at the stalls and this clever wine bar on wheels:

More scenes from around Auch:

Another stop we made was to see the “Tour de France in the Pyrenees” (The Great Loop) sculpture by Jean-Bernard Metais. Located across from a gas station on the A64 motorway of the Pyrenees Mountains, it is quite a sight to see!

Next up: SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #5: BEAUTIFUL BAYONNE

SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #3: APPEALING ALBI

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When we departed Carcassonne for our side trip to Albi, it was a sunny morning, so I captured some photos of the fortress as we made our way to the bus outside of the walled old city:

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

The appeal of the medieval town of Albi is visiting the beautiful Toulouse-Latrec Museum and the magnificent Cathedral of Saint Cecilia of Albi (Albi Cathedral). By the time we arrived in Albi, it was cloudy (and sometimes rainy), so it was perfect for these (mostly) indoor activities.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Albi is situated along the banks of the river Tarn and has a long history.  First settled during the Bronze Age, there was a lot of growth in the town after a bridge was constructed across the Tarn in 1040.  Fast forward several centuries, and Albi did an excellent job preserving and restoring its medieval architecture, which earned it the UNESCO designation.

Formerly the Bishops’ Palace of Albi, the Toulouse-Latrec Museum is one of the oldest (13th century) and best-preserved castles in France.  It was well worth visiting the castle, even if you’re not a fan of Toulouse-Latrec’s work or any of the other art exhibited in the museum.  I enjoyed it all! 

Albi was the birthplace of Henri de Toulouse-Latrec, and the museum honors his memory in style.  Built prior to the cathedral, the palace was the residence of the Bishop of Albi and is connected to the cathedral tower.  The entire complex was built like a fortress for protection from the Cathars, a heretical sect, which originated in Albi.

In 1922, the museum received a collection of Toulouse-Latrec’s work, donated by his mother, and the museum now houses over one thousand works by and about him.

The interior of the palace is gorgeous, but the beautiful gardens are not to be missed as well. 

View from the museum

The Gothic cathedral was also a must-see marvel.  Under construction for 200 years, it was finally completed in the late 1400’s.  It is claimed to be the largest brick building in the world and has undergone many restorations over the years.

Although the interior was full of ornate art and sculpture, the wall paintings especially captured my interest.  The bold colors and geometric designs on some of the walls were such a contrast from the exterior!

There were, of course, beautiful stained glass windows as well.  (What’s a cathedral without stained glass?)  Although most of the windows date to the 19th and early 20th centuries, there is still a small amount of stained glass from the medieval period that remains.

Scenes around the medieval town:

Coming up next: SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #4: ATTRACTIVE AUCH

SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #2: CAPTIVATING “NEW” CARCASSONE

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When I say “new” Carcassone, it’s a stretch, since the lower town below the walled fortress dates to the late medieval period.  It is newer than the old, fortified city up on the hill!

Carcassone is in the Basque Country of France, straddling the border between France and Spain on the coast of the Bay of Biscay. The region is home to the Basque people, an ethnic group with their own culture and language, which is the oldest language spoken in Europe.  They also share genetic ancestry, unique in that they have the highest percentage of Type O blood of any ethnic group.

Exploring Carcassone can be challenging for the less mobile.  It’s a bit of a steep scamper down the hill to get to the lower town on foot, but it was worth the effort to have a look around.  The walk across the bridge over the Aude river offered nice (but not photogenic on this day) views, and the pastel painted homes on the other side of the bridge were nice to photograph.  I especially enjoyed the odd choice of sculpture subject as well as the charming and colorful streamers over the streets in the center of town.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Next up: SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #3: APPEALING ALBI

SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #1: CAPTIVATING OLD CARCASSONE

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What a lovely way to begin our Overseas Adventures Travel (OAT) tour!  We were greeted with a gorgeous sunrise at the airport in Paris, following our red-eye flight from Atlanta.  Next, we boarded a flight to Toulouse, France, where we were transported by car to Carcassonne to begin our six-day pre-trip extension (in late August).

The old city of Carcassonne, located in southern France, is surrounded by a fortress high up on a hill overlooking the rest of the city.  Step inside the walls, and you will feel like you have been transported back in time to the medieval period, 2,500 years ago.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Our hotel was in the old city, just a short walk from the entrance of Cité de Carcassone, the medieval citadel (or fortress).  We had arrived one day early, so we had three nights at the hotel with plenty of time to explore the charming old city on the hill as well as the newer city down below.

Although it rained during much of our time in France, we were fortunate to have some beautifully sunny periods to get in some good photography.  We also enjoyed exploring and photographing the lighted citadel walls at night.

Entering the old city– a steep climb from the new city below
Cite de Carcassone, the medieval citadel
Inside the citadel museum, there was a computer-generated slide show projected on the wall of a large room. This image shows the citadel and a portion of the old city.
The clouds were rolling in, so we bolted from the museum to get in our walk around the citadel walls before the rain arrived. This is a view down to the “new” city of Carcassone.
The old cemetery
A view of Carcassone Cathedral from the fortress wall

A look inside the citadel museum:

After getting a birds-eye view of the cathedral, we stopped in for a closer look:

Carcassone Cathedral
A closer look at the cemetery, just outside the walls
Enjoying escargot with our group at L’Escargot; it tasted much better than it looked!
Delicious cuddlefish and potatoes
Carcassone at dusk
Carcassone at night

Coming up next: SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #2: CAPTIVATING “NEW” CARCASSONE

TURKIYE #17: EXTRAORDINARY EPHESUS

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For our last day in Turkiye, we visited Ephesus, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the largest and best-preserved ancient cities in the world.  Ephesus was home to the Temple of Artemis, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. No longer standing, it was said to be one of the most colossal temples ever built.

Ephesus was built in the 10th century BC, so its history is very long an involved—far too much detail to delve into in this post. To learn more about this ancient city, the Wikipedia article I linked to covers it quite well.

It was quite hot the day we were there, so much of what Nuri shared with us about Ephesus didn’t register. I was more concerned about finding a corner of shade to stand in as we toured the ruins and tried not to overheat. Had I been on my own, I would have visited at night, which would have been cooler and presented an interesting photographic perspective, since the ruins are well-lit. Besides, I’m sure it would have been less crowded.

The following are scenes from the ruins:

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Toilets

Looking back at our two weeks in Turkiye, it was an amazing experience! A big thank you to our guide, Mehmet Nuri Guneysu, who shared so much of his culture with us. Cheers!

Coming up next: Southwest France, Northern Spain & Portugal

TURKIYE #16: TWO CONTROVERSIAL TOPICS: LGBTQ+ AND TURKS & KURDS

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During every Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) tour, there is a “controversial topic” presented by either the tour leader or a guest speaker. Nuri, our tour leader, discussed two during this tour: LGBTQ+ rights in Turkiye and the Turks / Kurds controversy.

In 2013, Turkiye ranked very low for LGBTQ+ rights—39th out of 49 countries. Eleven years later, it dropped further to 47th. Prior to 2013, there were some glimmers of hope for gays. In 1980, the Green Party, which was one of four political parties, supported gay rights. And in 1994, another political party banned the discrimination of gays, even though the government wasn’t liberal at the time. In 1999, it was the first time a transgender nominee ran for Istanbul city council. Tiny glimmers…

That hope, however, was overshadowed by overwhelming homophobia in the government of Turkiye. In 2009, the European Union denied Turkiye membership because of it.

The common citizen of Turkiye held a different view. In 2003, Turkiye was the first Muslim majority country to have a gay pride march. Only 30 people participated, but it was a start. Participation grew to 15,000 in 2013 and 100,000 in 2015! The parade was canceled after that by the government, which currently doesn’t recognize same sex marriage, even though the typical citizen has no problem with it.

Istanbul has the most tolerant population as opposed to the Kurds in eastern Turkiye who hold a zero-tolerance view of gays and same sex marriage.

That brings me to controversial topic #2: Turks / Kurds controversy. The Kurds are the world’s largest population without a state. There are 80 million Kurds living in and around Turkiye, Syria, and Iraq, and a total of 100 million in the world.

In Turkiye, since 2015, Kurds have not been allowed to speak their own language in schools, and Kurdish books are banned. Nuri nailed it when he said, “The Turkish government and Kurd terrorists are worse than each other.”

Kurds are forced to be like Turks and not allowed to be themselves. Ordinary Kurds are caught in the middle between the Turkish government and Kurd terrorists.

Nuri’s father owned two stores that handled importing fabric from Iran, making products, and then exporting the finished product back to Iran. His father wouldn’t support the Kurd terrorists financially because of their violence and killings. Instead, he supported the poor Kurd families in town. The terrorists didn’t take too kindly to that and burned down his businesses. That was in 1995, and it took Nuri’s father the next six years to build his businesses back up. He died in 2005 due to the stress of it all, and Nuri had to work two part-time jobs after school to support his younger siblings.

If Nuri’s father had supported the terrorists, the Turkish government would have retaliated. He was stuck in the middle.

Coming up next: TURKIYE #17: EXTRAORDINARY EPHESUS

TURKIYE #15: WHAT THE H*&$ WAS THAT???

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Bruce and I were sound asleep during our last night on board the boat until my cell phone, which I had set to a white noise app, went ballistic. We were both startled awake by the blaring alarm that was going off. “What the H*&$ was that?” (In retrospect, I’m sure I used a more, uh, colorful word as I grabbed the phone.)

It was 2:17 AM, My phone home screen was bright red, and an “Android Alarm” statement said there had been a 5.8 earthquake, twelve miles off the coast of Rhodes, Greece, which was only 29 miles from where we were anchored off Marmaris.

As we were trying to absorb this news, we could hear the crew run by our cabin door. Still not thinking clearly due to the rude awakening, I stupidly said, “I wonder if anyone else had an alarm on their phones.” Bruce snapped back, “Who cares? I’m worried about a Tsunami!” And then it hit. “Oh my God, that’s right! WE’RE ON A BOAT!”

Meanwhile, the crew had received a call from the coast guard warning boats of large waves that were expected to come through. We were anchored in a protective cove, but I’m sure the captain kept his ear on the radio.

Not unexpectedly, the crew got us off that boat as early as they could, just in case…

As it turned out, there was no Tsunami, but when I think about what could have been, we are still, to this day, very grateful to have made it off that boat alive.

This is one of the press stories about the earthquake:

https://greekreporter.com/2025/06/03/greece-jolted-two-earthquakes-rhodes-crete-june-2025/

Relieved to be back on land (and looking forward to a cushy hotel bed), we said our farewells to the crew and made our way towards Kusadasi, a seaside resort known as the gateway to ancient Ephesus.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Along the way, we stopped for lunch and free time in Sirince, a former Greek village. All the buildings are over 200 years old, so it had a lot of charm. The population is just 456, and the village is small, but it has become a successful tourist destination. In addition to tourism, they earn their income from agriculture (wine, olive oil, and peaches).

We enjoyed our lunch of Turkish cuisine while enjoying views of the mountains. During our free time, we poked around the stalls and shops, shooting a few photos along the way:

Our hotel in Kusadasi

Next up: TURKIYE #16: TWO CONTROVERSIAL TOPICS: LGBTQ+ AND TURKS & KURDS

TURKIYE #14: A RIDE UP THE DALYAN RIVER TO KAUNOS

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We hopped onto a smaller boat for a cruise up the Dalyan River to Kaunos, an ancient seaport city dating back to the 10th century BC. Archaeologists, however, found coins that date to the 4th century BC.

Nuri took us around to see the remains of a theatre, acropolis, Roman bath, and other ruins:

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

The palm tree and flower- lined path to Kaunos Archaeological Park reminded me of San Diego, my former home.

Kaunos bordered ancient Lycia, so we were able to get a great view of the Lycian rock cut tombs in the cliffs, when we arrived in the resort town of Dalyan. I had never seen anything like it, and it amazed me!

The town of Dalyan was a typical resort town—touristy. Back in 1987, developers wanted to build a luxury hotel on the nearby Iztuzu Beach; however, there was an outcry from conservationists, because it was a breeding ground for endangered loggerhead sea turtles. Thankfully, the island has been declared a protected area. Loggerheads have existed for about 45 million years, and hopefully, they will live on for 45 million more—that is, if humans don’t destroy our planet first.

Sign in the stall of a restaurant bathroom

I felt fortunate to get to see this loggerhead swimming by our boat during our ride back to the cove where our gulet was anchored.

This was our final night aboard our boat, so we thanked the crew and enjoyed one last dinner while relaxing in the protected cove. It was the calm before a different kind of “storm” …

Traditional Turkish dessert

Next up: TURKIYE #15: WHAT THE H*&$ WAS THAT???

TURKIYE #13: HIKING & SWIMMING THE TURQUOISE COAST

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Another beautiful day in paradise—at least while we were on a hike and during our swim.

Today’s hike was quite a workout, but well worth it once again! This time, only four of us joined Nuri, while the remainder of our group stayed on board the boat and relaxed.

Following a steep climb up and over the mountain, we descended into a valley and explored the ruins of Lydia, a 4th century BC city. Due to its remote location, we never saw any other tourists during our hike, and it was wonderful! (That would change at Ephesus!)

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

We did, however, see some (surprising!) wildlife. There were bats:

And a few tortoises. Nuri, a softie, shared his bottle of water with one of them:

In the valley, we saw our first house, the home of a couple. They earned a living by farming as well as selling handmade walnut woodcraft to hikers passing by. Mutlu, invited us into his yard for hot tea and to see his handicrafts. The bonus was also getting to meet their two very sweet dogs! And I was pleased to purchase a small bowl Mutlu had made—a nice way to remember the trip.

I was ready for a refreshing swim following our return to the boat, and refreshing it was! Brrr!

The afternoon ride to our next destination along the Turquoise Coast was a wet one. A storm had blown in, the seas were rough, and the rain came down in sheets! Along with two others from our group, we rode out the storm in the plastic-enclosed dining area on deck, keeping our eyes on the horizon to help prevent seasickness.

It started out nice enough…
…until it wasn’t.

Once the storm cleared and we arrived at a cove for the night, it was gorgeous! Thankfully, it was nice and calm, so we could enjoy our dinner on deck.

For my post-dessert dessert, I pulled out some of my chocolate haul from around Turkiye. Ulker (on left) is the company that bought Godiva and produces it for the U.S.A. in a town outside of Istanbul.

Coming up next: TURKIYE #14: A RIDE UP THE DALYAN RIVER TO KAUNOS