IRISH ADVENTURE #16: THE AMAZING ARAN ISLANDS & A HOME HOSTED DINNER

We were fortunate to have beautiful weather and relatively calm seas for our ferry ride from Doolin to Inis Oirr, the smallest of the three Aran Islands in Galway Bay.

The total population of the islands is only 1,347 (as of 2022), and only 347 of them live on Iris Oirr.  Irish is their primary language; however, most also speak English. 

We toured the island by horse drawn wagon and learned about life on Inis Oirr.  Early settlers had built dry stone walls to protect the soil for their crops, so we were able to see these walls across the landscape along with prehistoric stone forts that date back to 1100 BC.  Other ruins we saw dated back to 1500 BC.

What is amazing about the Aran Islands are the people who are a hearty bunch.  Although the climate is unusually temperate (59 degrees in July and 43 degrees in January), the islands are isolated with few opportunities and not much in the way of goods and services.  As a result, the population has dwindled; but, those who have remained have made the best of it.

Back in the 1900’s, the locals knitted sweaters to sell for income.  Children learned very young, knitting sweaters beginning at the age of 5.  Currently, in addition to earning income from the sweaters they knit and sell, tourism has contributed to their economy.  Between the ferries bringing tourists for the day and tours aboard horse drawn wagons, the island can get busy on a nice day during high season.   

The ferries also serve as transportation to the mainland for the locals to go shopping, visit doctors, and take care of other necessities. 

If you prefer, you can fly between County Galway and the Aran Islands, a seven-minute flight aboard a Britten-Norman BN-2 Islander, a ten-seat plane operated by Aer Arann Islands. 

Would you like to know what life was like in the Aran Islands back in 1971?  National Geographic did a spread in their April issue, “The Arans, Ireland’s Invincible Isles.”  We saw a copy at the little café where we enjoyed lunch and learning more about life in the islands.

If you go to the Aran Islands, make sure to stop by the Man of Aran Fudge stand and pick up some fudge.  It’s delicious!

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

During the evening, back in Ennis, our group of 14 split up into three for our home-hosted dinner at three homes.  We visited Paula and her sister, Helene, and were greeted by a beautiful rainbow when we arrived.  (Another rainbow!).

Dinner was wonderful and the conversation spirited; Helene was hilarious—and, very opinionated.  This was back in September as the United States’s presidential campaign was in full-swing, and she had a thing or two (or three) to say about one of the candidates—yeah, that one. 

Now, when it comes to the unofficial (but sort of official) “rules” on an Overseas Adventure Travel tour, American politics (and other controversial topics) are off the table for discussion, as to keep peace in the group.  But, Bruce and I knew we were on the same page with the gals from our tour as well as our hosts that we all gladly broke the “rules.”  It was a blast!  We all got so involved in our conversation that we lost track of time.  When John came to pick us up, Paula told him to “Go away!”  That didn’t fly after several minutes of putting him off, so we hugged Paula and Helene and sadly said our goodbyes. 

I can only imagine what they think of American politics now…

Coming up next:  IRISH ADVENTURE #17: THE CAPTIVATING CLIFFS OF MOHER

IRISH ADVENTURE #15: GOING TO GALWAY

On the way to Galway, we stopped for a guided tour of Aughnanure Castle, in County Galway.  Built by the O’Flaherty family in the late 15th century, this tower house was fully restored in the 1960’s. 

For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Onward ho to Galway we go!  Galway, in County Galway, is a vibrant city of about 85,000 people of which 36% are students.  There are two universities, so the city has a young, hip, artsy vibe.  It is known unofficially as the capital of west Ireland, so it draws plenty of tourists, especially on Quay Street, the pedestrian street where artists, street musicians, students, and tourists all mix.

We enjoyed exploring the walkable, compact city center that spans both sides of the River Corrib.  On this day, it appeared as if a rescue training exercise was taking place in the river:

County Clare was our final destination for the day, so we continued our drive along the Wild Atlantic Way, arriving in the late afternoon to the charming Temple Gate Hotel, in Ennis, County Clare.

Temple Gate Hotel bar

A few scenes from around town:

Next up:  IRISH ADVENTURE #16: THE AMAZING ARAN ISLANDS & A HOME HOSTED DINNER

IRISH ADVENTURE #14: A CONNEMARA SHEEP FARM & KYLEMORE ABBEY & CASTLE

Sheep farming in Ireland is experiencing the same struggles as in England and (probably everywhere else sheep are raised for wool).  The wool market has dropped significantly due to the increase in synthetics used in clothing.  In Ireland, they are now using wool for insulation, but the market isn’t as big for that purpose.  Currently, wool is being looked at as a substitute for bubble wrap in packaging.

Still, sheep farmers are having a difficult time making a living, so they must diversify.  Tom has done so by bringing in tour groups for sheep herding demonstrations, featuring his dog, Rocket, who lives up to his name!

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Tom & Rocket

Tom also talked about life as a sheep farmer.  He has 1200 sheep.  Breeding season lasts for one month, and then the females are kept separate from the males.  He explained that family farms all around him are folding and there are now mostly super farms for food production.  He sells his lamb for meat and keeps his herd numbers at 1200.

Kylemore Abbey & Castle was our next destination for an afternoon visit.  The abbey, a Benedictine Monastery, was founded in 1920 on the grounds of the castle, which was built during the Great Famine, in 1867, by Mitchell Henry.  He employed 100 men and paid them three times what other jobs paid to do the construction that took four years to complete.  In 1893, electricity was added before other homes had it.  The 40,000 square foot castle has 33 bedrooms (but only 4 bathrooms) and was used in summer, for fishing, and at Christmas. Henry employed 200 people to maintain the estate, the walled garden, glass houses, and care for the animals he raised on the property. Ultimately, the castle and 1,000-acre estate was gifted to the monastery in 1920.

We toured the castle and gardens during what turned out to be a beautiful afternoon after a cloudy start:

The Connemara Pony is Ireland’s only native breed and is famous for being hardy and sure-footed.
Meet Perry Pickles, the Kune Kune Pig. Native to New Zealand, the Maori name, “Kune Kune” translates to “fat and round.”

To conclude our Kylemore Abbey visit, our guide, John, ducked into the gift shop to pick up some treats made by the Benedictine monks– chocolate and “Country Cream,” a cream-based liqueur. After our group enjoyed samples of both, Bruce and I were given the remaining couple of ounces to polish off.

Next up: IRISH ADVENTURE #15: GOING TO GALWAY

IRISH ADVENTURE #13: FROM DONEGAL TO CONNEMARA: A DAY OF RAINBOWS

The weather was so dynamic throughout our travels in Ireland, and this day was no different.  We had beautiful weather two days prior, and then the previous day was cloudy with some periods of light rain.  But on our day of travel from Donegal to Connemara, there were times when the skies were gorgeous!  We saw our first rainbow, and then they just kept coming.

Before departing from Donegal, I took in the views during this peaceful and calm morning near our hotel:

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

As we made our way west towards Connemara, I noticed this rainbow while enjoying the views from the bus window:

Then, during a rest stop, another rainbow greeted us:

And, another!

Along the way, we stopped to visit the National Museum of Ireland’s Country Life branch.  The museum’s fascinating National Folklife Collection exhibits tell the story of everyday life in rural Ireland, focusing specifically on the period between 1850 and 1950 when the Famine and Land War occurred. 

Between the rolling green hills and beautiful coastline, it was an enjoyable drive to sparsely populated Connemara, in western Ireland’s County Galway

The main town of Connemara, Clifden, is where we were headed to stay for two nights.  Although it is known as the “Capital of Connemara,” the town’s population is only 1,259 (as of 2022).  There is a lot of natural beauty to see in the area, though, so Clifden is a draw for tourists.

We arrived in the late afternoon but had plenty of time to explore the charming town center.  Bruce felt right at home as he stepped into Connemara Blue and struck up a conversation with glass artist, Tash Crow, the daughter of the art glass studio’s founder.

It was a lovely way to end a beautiful day!

Coming up next: IRISH ADVENTURE #14: A CONNEMARA SHEEP FARM & KYLEMORE ABBEY & CASTLE

IRISH ADVENTURE #12: GORGEOUS GLENVEAGH NATIONAL PARK & CASTLE

It would have been even more gorgeous at Glenveagh National Park and Castle had the weather been like the previous day, but it was Ireland, after all! 

Glenveagh, the second-largest national park in Ireland, is in County Donegal and encompasses much of the Derryveagh Mountains.  The castle was built by Captain John George Adair between 1867 and 1873.

Before visiting the castle, we took a guided walk through the park to take in the views of mountains and lakes, learn about the flora and fauna, and learn about the park’s history and conservation efforts.

During our free time, we enjoyed a lovely walk through the grounds of the castle, which were much more beautiful in person than my photos convey.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Next up: IRELAND #13: FROM DONNEGAL TO CONNEMARA: A DAY OF RAINBOWS

IRISH ADVENTURE #11: A DAY IN DONEGAL

Our day in Donegal was an opportunity to get a peek into the life of an Irish weaver and Irish sports.

Cyndi Graham is a tweed weaver who has carried on the weaving tradition in her family from her father.  We drove out to St. John’s Point to see her weaving demonstration at her 1700’s thatched cottage—the last traditional cottage still standing on this rustic, sparsely-populated peninsula.

In this small village of Dunkineely, men were the weavers, and there were many of them who earned their living weaving tweed for clothing.  They were required to weave 80 yards of fabric in a two-week period.  A spool of wool would be delivered to the cottage, and Cyndi’s father was told what pattern to weave. 

After he retired in 1976, Cyndi decided to become an apprentice for another weaver and learned the entire process.  She started a business making her own hats, clothing, and blankets in the cottage; the front of the cottage is her retail shop.  And, although her village had a rich history of weavers, Cyndi is now the only one in the area.  She weaves on the loom her father had used throughout his career but left untouched for many years after retirement.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Next, we went to Ballyshannon to visit the local Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) club, Aodh Ruadh, founded in 1909.  Here, we learned about the history and importance of Gaelic amateur sports and how to play two of the games, hurling and Gaelic football.

GAA, founded in 1884, is Ireland’s largest sporting organization and a large part of Irish society and life.  In addition to promoting Gaelic sports, the association promotes Irish music, song, and dance as well as the Gaelic language.  It is community-based, so a community’s teams are very much a part of every person in that community.

Since GAA is an amateur sports association, even the highest-caliber athletes are not paid.  They sure draw a crowd, though!  At the All-Ireland finals in hurling and football, the games sell out with 82,300 in attendance.  It’s a hot ticket, very hard to obtain, and the games are broadcast around the world.

We had the opportunity to try hurling, and it was a fun challenge! I don’t think I will be trading in my swimming goggles any time soon, though.

Back in Donegal, we had free time to explore on our own, so I grabbed my camera and checked out Donegal Castle, which was originally built in 1474 by Hugh O’Donnell.  It was destroyed in 1595 by Red Hugh O’Donnell to prevent seizure by the British and then rebuilt in 1614 by Sir Basil Brook.  For nearly two centuries, most of the buildings of the castle lay in ruins before being restored in the 1990’s.

Views on my walk
Seafood restaurant mural in Donegal

I also wandered through Donenegal Abbey to see what might spark my interest photographically.  It was another sunny(!) day and late in the afternoon, so the conditions were good to take a few shots.

Coming up next: IRISH ADVENTURE #12: GORGEOUS GLENVEAGH NATIONAL PARK & CASTLE

IRISH ADVENTURE#10: MUSEUM OF FREE DERRY

In a previous post, IRISH ADVENTURE #6: THE TROUBLES OF THE 1970s: THE SITES AND STORIES, I wrote about our experience hearing about his significant time in Ireland’s history from the perspective of our taxi tour guide as well as a panel of three men, in Belfast.

This post is about the 1972 Bloody Sunday Massacre that occurred in Derry, Ireland, 70 miles from Belfast, in Northern Ireland.  We visited the Museum of Free Derry and listened to the experiences of an Irish Catholic who witnessed it that day.

The Museum of Derry documents the history and events of the struggle of the Irish Catholics, as do the murals I photographed along the streets surrounding the museum.  Powerful, thought-provoking, and all too familiar, considering what transpired during the same time in the U.S.A.

Derry (previously called “Londonderry” by the British from London who had settled there), is 85% Irish and is seen as an Irish city, even though it is part of Northern Ireland and the United Kingdom.  Although it should have been part of the Republic of Ireland, the British maintained a hold on the city through gerrymandering.  As a result, the Irish Catholics had to stand up to the British for their civil rights, including equal pay for equal work, equal right to jobs without discrimination, and the right to vote without being a landowner.  They modeled their movement after the United States civil rights movement led by Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., and marchers would sing, “We Shall Overcome.”

In 1969, Protestant loyalists marched into the Bogside district, a marsh land outside the walls of Derry, sparking violence with the Catholic residents.  Formerly known as the Battle of the Bogside, this attack would become the starting point of The Troubles, and the Irish civil rights movement for equality that culminated in the 1972, Bloody Sunday Massacre.  The massacre occurred when 15,000 protesters took to the streets in the Catholic Bogside neighborhood of Derry to march against an internment law granting the British government the authority to imprison Northern Irish dissidents without a trial.  The crown deployed soldiers to police the march, and after a day of escalating violence, the army fired upon the unarmed crowd, shooting 108 live rounds that left 14 dead and many more injured.  To make matters worse, an official British inquiry cleared the soldiers who murdered these unarmed protesters.  All the British officials had to say about what happened was that the soldiers’ behavior was “bordering on the reckless.”  Despicable.

Only one British soldier was ever charged with a crime for the 14 Irish Catholics who were murdered during the 20-minute period of Bloody Sunday.  To this day, there are Derry residents, including those who started and run the museum, who continue to fight for those who lost their lives on that day (and throughout the Irish civil rights movement)—especially the children who were murdered while just trying to get to safety during the violence.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

The man in the upper left is John Hume; see next photo, taken at a display at Guildhall honoring him.

It wasn’t safe for Irish Catholics to walk the streets until 1998 when the British army finally moved out of Derry.  Their army barracks were located across the river from town, and there is now a bridge, built in 2011, connecting the two sides, called the “Peace Bridge.”

Thankfully, there is full equality now for the Irish Catholics, but following the war, there was a high rate of PTSD, drug addiction, and alcoholism.

Derry is surrounded by stone walls that were built between 1613 and 1619.  Following our visit to the museum, we went on a walking tour of the walls with a local guide.  He pointed out that the well-off British Protestants lived inside the city walls, and the Catholics lived outside.  At 9:00 PM, a bell would ring to alert any Catholics working or visiting inside the city that they had to leave and return to their ghetto.  Notice the difference between the neighborhoods outside the walls and inside, in the pictures below.  This first shot was taken from on top of the city wall, looking down to where the Bloody Sunday Massacre took place in the Irish Catholic neighborhood, outside of the walls.

Derry Walls
Guildhall, built in 1887, is Derry’s civic center. Below are some of its stained glass windows.
The Peace Bridge is in the background, and we walked it to the other side of the river.
When we arrived, this youth band was playing traditional Irish music.
A view across the Peace Bridge back to the city center and Guildhall.

Following time on our own to walk the Peace Bridge, we continued our overland to Donegal, Ireland, the subject of my next post: IRISH ADVENTURE #11: A DAY IN DONEGAL

IRISH ADVENTURE #9: HIKING THE GORGEOUS GIANT’S CAUSEWAY

I looked forward to seeing the Antrim Coast, the northernmost coast of Ireland, because I had read that it was designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural BeautyDeparting Belfast, we traveled north, stopping along the way to see a few sites before continuing to Giant’s Causeway.

Carrickfergus, a medieval walled town, was our first stop.  The stone walls, dating back to 1608 are some of the best-preserved historic town walls in Ireland.  The castle is over 800 years old.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

We continued to the small port town of Larne, a charming and photogenic place with a long history.  The coastal area around the town is thought to have been one of the earliest inhabited areas of Ireland.

There was one more little town we stopped at for a lovely walk along the waterfront, but I neglected to write down the name.  If you recognize it, please let me know!

It wasn’t until after our lunch at a local restaurant that we arrived at the Giant’s Causeway, so it was (unfortunately!) quite busy with tourists.  (I get that they were probably saying the same thing about me; however, I don’t take selfies, and I don’t ask to have my picture taken where it is going to get in the way of others.  Obsessive selfie shooters are a pet-peeve of mine, and several of these tourists were dominating the most photogenic basalt columns, and they wouldn’t move

I am glad I opted to walk rather than take the shuttle from the visitor’s center each way, because I was able to get some nice seascape shots from above.  Besides, the lines were long, and I would have wasted a lot of time waiting for the shuttle.  The exercise I got walking down and back up the hill was a great bonus!

Now, a bit about why Giant’s Causeway is such a popular attraction in Northern Ireland.  In addition to being gorgeous coastline and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, there are 40,000 interlocking basalt columns—some as high as 39 feet tall—that are fascinating to see.  It is very photogenic—if you can snap some photos without people in them.

I thoroughly enjoyed hiking around the area and enjoying the scenic vistas from the cliffs.  Again, we were fortunate to have yet another beautiful day!

I will leave you with a couple of random scenes shot from the bus window:

Next up:  IRISH ADVENTURE#10: MUSEUM OF FREE DERRY

IRISH ADVENTURE #8: EXPLORING THE ATTRACTIVE ARDS PENINSULA

On our way to the Ards Peninsula, we stopped to see the Northern Ireland Assembly, the country’s parliament building.  The entrance from the front gate to the assembly is one mile long, and it’s not until you arrive that you realize just how big this building is—365 feet long!  The six pillars in the front represent the six counties of Northern Ireland.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

This robotic lawnmower was busily wandering back and forth, cutting the lawn as it went.

We continued to the Ards Peninsula, which protrudes out from Northern Ireland’s northeast coast and into the Irish Sea.  This peninsula is Northern Ireland’s most important region for nature and has many species of birds; however, the government isn’t protecting the waterways.  Climate change has also affected the region, making it warmer than it has ever been.  Between the lack of protection of the waterways and climate change, it remains to be seen what will happen to this beautiful part of the country.

Mount Stewart House and Garden was our next stop.  Following a tour of the massive gardens and some time to explore on our own, we toured the house.

Mosaic wall at the restrooms near the entrance.

Considered to be one of the most outstanding gardens in the world, Mount Stewart is the most visited National Trust mansion house property in Northern Ireland.  The gardens are tended to by 1,000 gardeners, 996 who are volunteers.

The Stewart family had a successful coal mining business in London, and this was their vacation home.  The 19th-century mansion features a vast collection of art and furniture that reflects the history of the family.

Our final stop was at Donaghadee County Down for a walk to see the Donaghadee Lighthouse, which was constructed in 1836.  We couldn’t have had a more beautiful day!  The weather was so nice that some locals were making a splash doing some jumps into the 58-degree water!

Coming up next: IRISH ADVENTURE #9: HIKING THE GORGEOUS GIANT’S CAUSEWAY

IRISH ADVENTURE #7: BEAUTIFUL BELFAST

Following our taxi tour of West Belfast (the center of The Troubles) and our panel discussion with the three men from opposing sides who were in the thick of it, Bruce and I needed to emotionally unwind.  While others went to the Titanic Museum, we opted to take advantage of the gorgeous day and visit the botanic gardens at Queen’s University Belfast.  We felt so fortunate to be able to enjoy the sunshine and temperatures in the high 60’s and low 70’s, because it was 40 degrees in Belfast the previous week.

Since my last post was an emotional one to write and a long one to read, I am going to take a break and leave you today with scenes of beautiful Belfast.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

The stunning architecture of the Titanic museum in Belfast
Queen’s University Belfast
Queen’s University Botanic Gardens
We hopped on the bus back to the city center, and we both giggled when we noticed the next stop was a street with the same name as Bruce!
Belfast City Hall: We took a self-guided tour of this gorgeous building that was completed in 1906. It would cost 120 BILLION dollars if built today!
Domed ceiling of City Hall
A series of stained glass windows in a hallway were lit up beautifully by the sunlight shining through. All of the windows depicted historically significant events in Belfast’s history.
This window commemorates the 100th anniversary of the Docker’s Strike of 1907. All sides of the working class community, including dockers, carters, coal heavers, boilermakers, and tobacco workers, united in support and came out on strike.
The stained glass windows projected its colors and shadows on the opposite wall of the hallway. I captured Bruce’s shadow here and mine below.
This pewter chess set on exhibit in City Hall, in a room dedicated to the Titanic, depicts passengers who were on the ship. It was created by Anto Brennan.

A few more scenes around town before returning to photograph City Hall at dusk:

To cap off a beautiful day in Belfast, we enjoyed the full moon rising from our hotel window.

Next up: IRISH ADVENTURE #8: EXPLORING THE ATTRACTIVE ARDS PENINSULA