TURKIYE #5: CAPTIVATING CAPPADOCIA

To get from Istanbul to Cappadocia, our group took a short flight, about one hour and twenty-five minutes.  The flight may have been short, and we may have been traveling from one Turkish location to another; but we arrived at what appeared to be an entirely different planet.

Located on the plateau of the Taurus Mountains, the geology is what made me feel like we had left planet Earth.  Soft volcanic rock of the landscape had eroded into towers, cones, valleys, and caves—all very dramatic and photogenic.

The volcanic rock was the result of three volcanic eruptions over a period of 10,000 years—the last one being in 1854.

Throughout the countryside, there are rock churches and underground tunnel complexes that date back to the Byzantine and Islamic eras.  We stopped to visit Ozkonak, one of these ancient underground cities. 

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

These are all photos taken by our tour leader, Nuri:

Although the age of this particular complex is uncertain, it was probably built during the Byzantine era for protection from enemies.  It was discovered in 1972 by a local farmer who was curious about where his excess crop water was disappearing to.  He discovered an underground room, which ultimately revealed a large city that could have housed 60,000 people for up to three months during a siege. Imagine his surprise at that discovery!  The complex contains ten floors, to a depth of 40 meters; however, only four floors are open.

This volcanic granite city is connected by tunnels and contains a pipe communication system reaching each of its levels—a unique feature of this particular complex.  Each carved room had ventilation provided by further piping when the city was sealed during sieges. 

Another unique feature was the holes above the tunnels that were used for dumping hot sand on the enemy.  The complex also has a water well, winery and moving stone doors.

After visiting Ozkonak, we continued our drive to Cappadocia, stopping along the way to see some of the volcanic formations along the roadside:

Misty Cave Hotel, our base for three nights, was the most unusual hotel I had ever seen!  The rooms were built into a volcanic rock hillside and our bathroom was downstairs, underground.  Each room was completely different, so our group enjoyed visiting each other and checking them out. This was something we will never forget!

Although there was a walk-in shower next to the sink (which we used), we got a kick out of this huge room that could be used for a Turkish or American-style bath.

Dinner at the hotel:

Coming up next: TURKIYE #6: BEAUITIFUL BALLOONS, GORGEOUS GOREME & COLORFUL CARPETS

TURKIYE #4: THE BEAUTIFUL BOSPORUS STRAIT & MORE ABOUT ISTANBUL

As I mentioned in my first post on Istanbul, the Bosporus Strait separates Europe from Asia, and Istanbul is located on both continents.  That would make an interesting trivia question, don’t you think?  “In what city can you be on two different continents but never leave the city?”  Answer: “Istanbul.”  Cross a bridge or take a ferry and be in Asia and Europe without ever leaving Istanbul!  I wonder if that question has ever been on Jeopardy…           

We didn’t visit the Asia side of the city, but we did take a sightseeing cruise with Nuri as our guide.  It was nice; we had the entire boat for ourselves and enjoyed a gloriously sunny day!

During our cruise, we learned that the Bosporus is a very important maritime waterway, because it connects from the Black Sea to the Mediterranean and the Atlantic Ocean via Gibraltar, and the Indian Ocean through the Suez Canal.

The Bosporus is well-traveled by everything from freighters and tankers carrying goods and oil, to ferries carrying cars and people back and forth between the two continents.  Throw in all the sightseeing tourist boats, fishing boats, and yachts out for a pleasure cruise; there is never a dull moment!

Would you like to live in a home overlooking the Bosporus, so you could take in the views of all those boats passing by?  Although it’s less expensive to live on the Asia side of the river, it will still set you back a minimum of $2 million.  The most expensive homes on the Bosporus are as much as $100 million!  It is the most expensive real estate in the country.  On the other side of the hill from the Bosporus, however, a two bed / two bath flat will cost you about $150,000.

Here are some scenes along the Bosporus, in the order they were shot on our round-trip boat ride:

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

I previously mentioned that we also visited the Spice Bazaar while we were in Istanbul.  Known to locals as the Misir Carsisi, it dates back to 1660 and is one of the largest bazaars in Istanbul.  It was very similar to the Grand Bazaar in its display of spices and Turkish delight, so I combined those photos in Turkiye #2.

The following are more scenes around the Hippodrome (central square):

A traditional Turkish shoe shine stand

We enjoyed the food in Istanbul very much!

This is a Simit, sort of like a bagel, but they are larger and the dough is twisted. This one was purchased from a cart in the HIppodrome. Plain simits were the equivalent of 50 cents, but one filled with Nutella only set us back an extra 25 cents for a delicious and very inexpensive snack!
Although I opted for falafels instead, I had to grab this shot!
Falafels

These were various different spreads and condiments that tasted so good!

Hot appetizer of pastry with cheese and honey. DELICIOUS!
Baklava, which is phyllo dough pastry, honey syrup, and pistachio nuts

Next up: TURKIYE #5: CAPTIVATING CAPPADOCIA

TURKIYE #3: MAGNIFICENT MOSQUES & TERRIFIC TOPKAPI PALACE

During our free time in Istanbul, Bruce and I explored the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, better known as the “Blue Mosque,” listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site under the name “Historic Areas of Istanbul”.  This is the mosque we saw lit up when we arrived at our hotel at night, and we were eager to see the mosque’s interior.

This Ottoman-era mosque, completed in 1617, is an iconic attraction in Istanbul because of its history and architecture.  The central dome is surrounded by four semi-domes over the prayer hall, and it’s quite a sight to see when you step inside.  The Iznik tile work itself makes this a must-see destination if you are ever in Turkey. 

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Nuri, our tour leader, led our group on guided tours of Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace during the following two days in the city.  Although we didn’t tour the Hagia Sophia until our final day, it is located just across the Hippodrome (central square) from the Blue Mosque, so I will tell you about it first.

Nuri, our tour leader

Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque (also a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is considered the epitome of Byzantine Architecture.  The first building of the complex was built in AD 537, and until the fall of Constantinople in 1453, Hagia Sophia served as a cathedral.  It was a mosque until 1935 when it became a museum.  In 2020, it was redesignated as a mosque, but in 2024, the upper floor of the mosque began serving as a museum once again.

As we toured the interior, we were in awe of the architecture, mosaics, marble pillars and floors as we learned about the history—far too detailed and complicated to write about here.

Mosques have strict rules about the attire permitted to be worn by visitors, but Hagia Sophia’s guards had an interesting way of determining who was permitted in from our group without purchasing a paper covering and who was not.  Bruce’s shorts were the same length as the other “Bruce” in our group, but he was permitted in without the fashionable coverings the others got to wear.  I brought a scarf for my head, so I was good to go.

The same day we toured Hagia Sophia, we visited the spice bazaar and took a cruise on the Bosphorus Strait.  More about that in my next post.

On our first day with the group, we toured Topkapi Palace, which served as the administrative center of the Ottoman Empire and was home to its sultans.  Six years after the conquest of Constantinople, Mehmed the Conquerer ordered the place to be built.  For several centuries, the complex expanded, but a AD 509 earthquake and 1665 fire required the palace to be renovated.  Fast-forward to 2025, and the complex now consists of four main courtyards, many smaller buildings, and is another UNESCO World Heritage Site. Again, we were in awe!

The following are all from the 1600’s and on display in the museum of the palace:

Coming up next: TURKIYE #4: THE BEAUTIFUL BOSPHORUS STRAIT & MORE ABOUT ISTANBUL

TURKIYE #2: THE GIGANTIC GRAND BAZAAR

Take one step into Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar, and it’s hard to imagine that it began as a warehouse ordered to be built by Mehmed the Conquerer in 1461. One of the first shopping malls in the world, it is also one of the largest covered markets, with 61 covered streets and over 4,000 shops. Annually, the Grand Bazaar is visited by approximately 91,250,000 people, making it one of the most visited tourist attractions in the world.

The architecture of the main part of the bazaar is beautiful and quite nice to walk around, even if you don’t like to shop. Besides, if you like to people watch, this is THE place to go! But make sure to look up and around, because the architecture and tile work is lovely.

To say the bazaar is gigantic is an understatement. It was difficult for us to grasp; we didn’t even make it to most of those covered streets. We were, in one word, overwhelmed. What an assault on the senses, and I mean all of them! Visually, it was incredibly stimulating—eye candy for photography, especially photographing the colorful candy!

I could have spent days exploring the bazaar and doing photography, so perhaps I misspoke when I stated in my last post that three full days was a good amount of time to spend in Istanbul. It definitely wasn’t enough.

Coming up next: TURKIYE #3: MAGNIFICENT MOSQUES & TERRIFIC TOPKAPI PALACE

TURKIYE #1: INTERESTING ISTANBUL

I will give you one guess as to why I was M.I.A. since my last post… Yes! I was traveling again! This time, we were in the Basque country of France, northern Spain, and Portugal for 23 days. After that fabulous tour, we were home for one week and then took off for eight days to Toronto. Those blogs will eventually be posted, but I last left you in Sicily, and on our way to Turkiye for a back-to-back tour.

Yes, it is now spelled “Turkiye” rather than “Turkey” (like our Thanksgiving bird). Although the country has been spelled “Turkiye” since it became a republic in 1923 (surprise!), the country pushed the rest of the world to recognize and adopt that spelling in 2021. Other countries have been asleep at the switch, however, still hanging on to the incorrect spelling. The United Nations didn’t recognize the “new” spelling until 2024, and Overseas Adventure Travel, the company we use for small group tours, spelled the country “Turkey” in its “Final Document Booklet” they sent us prior to departure. Wake up, World!

It was dark when we arrived at Sultanahmet Palace Hotel, in Istanbul, and when we stepped out of the car, this was the first thing we saw, just across the street from the hotel’s entrance:

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

We knew this was going to be a very interesting city…

Istanbul, the largest city in Turkiye, is home to more than 15 million people, most of whom are ethnic Turks with Kurds being the largest minority. Another minority represented in Istanbul are Sepharic Jews, which date back to 390. Unlike Jews in Europe, Ottomon Jews were allowed to work in any profession, and they excelled in commerce and trade as well as medicine. Although 10% of the population in Istanbul were Jews at its highest point, there are now less than 15,000 Jews due to emigration to Israel.

What I didn’t realize is that geographically, Istanbul is situated on two continents— Europe and Asia. About two thirds of the population resides on the Europe side, and the rest live in Asia.  The World’s narrowest straight used for international navigation, the Bosporus, separates the two continents, and it’s a bustling waterway.

Our hotel was perfectly situated, just a short walk from the Hippodrome of Constantinople, the central square, where we enjoyed exploring the mosques, doing photography (day and night), and just watching all the people during our free time. Four nights and three full days was a good amount of time for the planned activities with the group and seeing what we wanted to on our own in the historic city center, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Never did either of us feel unsafe in the city center, day or night, even when I went out on my own to do photography. We thoroughly enjoyed this interesting city!

These are just some of the scenes from our first day in Istanbul before joining our group.

Before leaving home, a friend gave me this 1970 Turkish note. Little did he know, the zeros have since disappeared, and this is now worth about ten cents with the exchange rate!
The front patio of our hotel
The back patio of our hotel where we ate breakfast had quite a view!
The ceiling of the restaurant patio where we enjoyed our first Turkish meal.
The center of a huge ceramic plate.

Next up: TURKIYE #2: THE GIGANTIC GRAND BAZAAR

SICILY & AMALFI COAST #26: WRAPPING IT UP IN NAPLES

Naples was our base for our final three nights in Italy, so in addition to seeing Pompeii and Capri (as detailed in posts #25 and #26), Bruce and I explored as much as possible during our free time.

A city of over 900,000 people, Naples is the third-largest city in Italy, after Rome and Milan; and, its historic city center has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city has a 2,800-year history, so there is an abundance of historical buildings and monuments, including 448 historical churches of the 1000 total churches in the city.

Our hotel, Royal Continental, was located on the seafront promenade with gorgeous views of the Bay of Naples.  Fortunately, we had lovely weather, so we could enjoy the views and walks along the promenade.  This was the view from our room during different times of the day and evening:

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Scenes along the promenade:

We walked all over this city, taking in as much as we could during the final days of our tour before continuing to Turkiye for our other tour with Overseas Adventure Travel.  Getting an early start to our final day, we passed through this plaza that was nearly empty, except for some school groups:

Although I am not a fan of shopping malls, one of the most beautiful places we visited was Galleria Umberto I, a gorgeous shopping gallery with extremely high-end stores. The architecture was exquisite! Built in the late 1800’s, the Galleria was named after the king of Italy at the time. The most spectacular aspect of the architecture is the glass dome:

Ceiling
Ceiling

A fun place to poke around was Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarter), an eighteen streets by twelve grid with a population of 14,000 people that dates to the 16th century. The place is bustling, and motorcycle riders occasionally zip by on the narrow streets. They don’t seem to care about pedestrians, and I nearly got hit, making me wish I had eyes in the back of my head!  Still, it was an enjoyable area to explore and photograph.

This was one of my favorite travel moments and pictures of the trip. As we were walking by, this gentleman exclaims, “Brooks!” He was pointing to his running shoes, which were Brooks, like mine. He didn’t speak English, and I don’t speak Italian, but we managed to have a fun conversation through mime. He asked if I was a runner, and I shook my head no. I pretended to swim to convey I was a swimmer, and he pointed to himself that he swam, too. “Triathlon!” And he took out his phone to show me a picture of him at the finish line of a triathlon. Bruce shot this picture of us posing with our Brooks shoes, we laughed, and said, “Arriverdci!”

Since Naples was where pizza was invented, we had to partake in its famous invention!  We were provided with large scissors to cut our pizza into slices:

Reflecting on our time in Sicily, the Amalfi Coast, and finally, Naples, it was a wonderful three weeks of memories we will always treasure!

Our travels continued in Turkiye on May 20, which will be the subject of my next series of posts after a break. But first, I will slip in a post about my favorite travel tips, some of which I came up with during our six weeks of traveling.

Next up: MY FAVORITE TRAVEL TIPS

SICILY & AMALFI COAST #26: CRUISING TO CAPRI

While our small Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) group spent the morning on a walking tour of Naples and visiting the National Archaeological Museum, Bruce and I opted to book a full-day boat tour to the island of Capri for a cruise around the island and free time exploring the island itself.  Fingers were crossed for calm seas and good weather, and we got both when it mattered the most!

Capri, a popular resort destination, is located on the south side of the Gulf of Naples.  As we approached the island by boat, we noticed the steep and rugged limestone cliffs and numerous grottos.  Beautiful! We were in for a treat!  The water was a gorgeous shade of deep blue, and as we got closer, it turned to shades of turquoise, reminding me of the many tropical paradises I had the great fortune to SCUBA dive in many years ago. 

When we arrived at the harbor, we transferred from the ferry to a smaller boat that could maneuver close to the grottos as we circled the island.  Our tour didn’t include visiting the famous Blue Grotto, which we opted against, due to the amount of time it would require to see it.  Boats line up for their turn to off load their passengers to grotto tour boats, and the waiting time can be very long.  It was organized chaos when we cruised by, and I was happy we didn’t spend our time bobbing in place waiting!

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

These are just some of the boats lined up for the Blue Grotto. There were many more not pictured!

The history of Capri is long.  Archaeological evidence indicates human presence dating back to the Neolithic and Bronze Age.  Fast forward to the late 19th century, the island became an increasingly popular resort for European artists, writers, and expatriates.  It gained a reputation as a tolerant haven, attracting wealthy gay men and lesbians seeking a more open life than elsewhere in Europe.

Following our cruise, we opted to hike three quarters of a mile up to the town (elevation 492 feet) rather than take the funicular, a decision I thoroughly enjoyed.  For Bruce, not so much.  It was very steep, there were a lot of stairs, and it was a hell of a workout.  We earned the gelato we enjoyed for lunch!

The views throughout the hike were stunning, and I enjoyed seeing the charming homes and gardens along the way.

The outer wall of one of the homes we saw during the hike up to town.

After arriving at the top, the mix of people we saw in town ranged from day trippers like us to very fashionable (and I presume quite wealthy) Europeans who had arrived by private yacht and were transported from the marina to town by these funny-looking, open top taxis:

This was the place to people-watch!  While enjoying the spectacular views and checking out the interesting tile map of Capri on a lower-level patio from where we sat savoring our gelato, the crowds passed by providing plenty of entertainment. This place was hopping!

Scenes around town:

Custom sandal makers are popular in Italy and reasonably priced.
These sandals, on the other hand, were very expensive, I’m sure!
When it was time to return to the marina, we took the funicular.

Scenes around the waterfront and marina:

We were so glad we opted to spend the day seeing Capri! The boat ride back to the mainland was a wet, but fun one. We were greeted with a lovely, serene view upon our return.

Coming up next: SICILY & AMALFI COAST #26: WRAPPING IT UP IN NAPLES

SICILY & AMALFI COAST #25: PERSERVERING THROUGH POMPEII

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Our final morning in Maiori was beautiful!
On our way to Pompeii, the views to Mount Vesuvius were gorgeous once again!

Our fun-loving tour leader, Francesco, normally a joking around kind of guy, was very serious about getting to Pompeii before it opened.  He said even if you have pre-purchased tickets like he had for our group, the lines to get in get very long.  Francesco was not wrong.  We arrived before opening, and it was already very crowded outside the gate.  See those cases in the picture below?  Each one was full of a busload of headsets that the local guides would use with their groups to speak to them while walking through the site.  The empty cases are held there until the group is ready to depart.  Those cases were just the beginning of a collection that would grow throughout the day!

It wasn’t as crowded after we got through the gate, because Pompeii is quite large at about 170 acres, and the tour guides lead their groups to different areas.  But still, there were so many people everywhere, because it is among the most popular tourist attractions in Italy, with approximately 2.5 million visitors annually.

One of the MANY tour groups…

Having said all that, when you visit Italy, Pompeii is a must-see destination.  A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city was buried in six meters of volcanic ash by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD.  Toxic gas and ash penetrated the entire town, killing what was estimated to be about 11,000 residents.   

It wasn’t until the 17th century that Pompeii was re-discovered.  And what a discovery it must have been!  The city and its treasures were well preserved, offering a unique snapshot of what Roman life was at the time.  It is the only archaeological site in the world that provides a complete picture of an ancient Roman City.

Pompeii was a wealthy town of beautiful public buildings and luxurious private houses decorated with fine artwork and furnishings.  Can you imagine what it must have been like to discover these treasures during excavation?

During our tour of the museum, we got to see some of these beautiful treasures:

Venus Pompeiana with Cupid, 1st Century Fresco
4th Century BC
This ceramic vessel from the 1st Century contains pigments used to decorate walls.

What we found interesting, however, were the remains of the shops and workshops we saw where pottery and glass serving pieces were made.  There were also bakeries, wool processing workshops, snack bars, an amphitheater, and more.

This was a tavern and these terracotta vessels contained the cooked food and drinks that were sold to customers. During excavation, utensils used for serving the food and drinks were found.

We were fortunate to be there on a gorgeous spring day when the red poppies were in bloom.

Following our tour of Pompeii, we had a much-needed relaxing (and quiet!) outdoor lunch at a local winery where we enjoyed views of Mt. Vesuvius.

Our final destination was Naples, our base for the final three nights of the tour.  More on Naples in post #26!

Next up:  SICILY & AMALFI COAST #25: CRUISING TO CAPRI

SICILY & AMALFI COAST #24: SCENIC SCALA & ROMANTIC RAVELLO

This was one of those days where we had all types of weather.  The cloudy and cold morning gave way to beautiful, sunny skies in the afternoon. 

Our day began in Scala, the oldest village on the Amalfi Coast and perched 1,500 feet above sea level on a steep hillside.  We hiked 600 steps down from the bus to get to the bottom of the village (I didn’t count, but I took Francesco’s word for it!), visiting the ruins of the Romanesque Basilica of St. Eustachio along the way.

Consecrated in 1244, there is not much left to the basilica, but the views from the ruins were spectacular.  When we arrived, a sweet little lady greeted us with candy.  She has been volunteering at the site for years and was happy to see Francesco and greet the group.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Walking down the steps through this historic village felt so authentic Italy, and what I loved the most was not seeing anyone else except our group and a few locals.

The skies magically cleared!

Our group continued to the town of Ravello, which is also situated in the hills with beautiful views of the Amalfi Coast and Scala.  The best views were from 13th—century Villa Rufolo where we took a self-guided tour.  The skies hadn’t quite cleared yet here, but the views were no less gorgeous from the villa.

Tile floors inside the villa.

Ravello is a small town of just 2,500 people and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Founded in the 5th century as a shelter place against the barbarian invasions, it later became known for producing wool.  The history is long and quite involved, but Ravello became a destination for artists, musicians, and writers. It is quite popular with tourists now, partly because of the beautiful views.

Bruce and I found the town to be quite charming, and we enjoyed browsing through the ceramic shops and galleries.  Rather than take the time to dine at one of the outdoor cafes on the piazza, we opted to grab a sandwich from the Italian deli and watch the cats beg and compete for the scraps the café diners tossed to them.  It was quite entertaining to watch, and our sandwich was delicious!

Coming up next: SICILY & AMALFI COAST #25: PERSERVERING THROUGH POMPEII

SICILY & AMALFI COAST #23: A BEAUTIFUL BOAT RIDE TO ADORABLE AMALFI

After two weeks of stellar weather in Sicily, our luck was bound to run out sooner or later.  This was the day, unfortunately, because a boat ride along the Amalfi Coast was on the agenda and blue skies would have been beautiful! Instead, it was cloudy, and it rained a little bit here and there.

The village of Amalfi, namesake of the Amalfi Coast and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was our morning destination.  Located on the southwest coast of Italy, Amalfi, in the Campania region, faces the Gulf of Salerno.  Having a population of under 5,000 people, it’s a small, intimate village in the off season, and we were told the favorite winter “sport” is gossip.  Evidently, there isn’t much work available in the winter, because it is a seasonal destination, so the locals have a lot of time on their hands… 

High season is a different story.  Tourists flock to what is reputed to be the most beautiful coastline in Italy, and the place is hoppin’!  We got a taste of that, having visited in mid-May, just ahead of the high season.  The streets were crowded with tourists!  Still, it was love at first sight.  What a charming and colorful place!

Amalfi is very mountainous, giving the village a lot of character.  Steep staircases led us to winding streets we enjoyed exploring and poking around to see what discoveries would make us smile and break out the camera.  I took so many photos; it was hard to edit them down. So, strap in; this is a long post of pictures!

First, the boat ride, for views of the coastline:

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

The village of Amalfi
Would you like to stay at this hotel? It will set you back 2,000 Euros per night!

Back on land:

I strolled into this gentleman’s studio, smiled, and bid him, “Buongiorno!” He immediately offered the cherries he had been snacking on from the plastic box. I politely declined, but he insisted. I am so glad he did, because they were the most delicious cherries I had ever tasted, and we shared a magical moment I won’t soon forget.
He painted this beautiful plate with the paints in the photo below.
The mirror reflects the stairs in front of it.
This fountain was nothing short of bizarre but fun! It’s hard to see the detail in this photo, but the picture below is just one small part of this entire scene of little figures of people and animals. Read all about it here.
Our group visited Antichi Sapori d’Amalfi to learn how Limoncello liqueur is made. We tasted it, of course!
After returning to Maiori, we regrouped following our afternoon of free time to enjoy dinner at a local restaurant. This was the appetizer: Anchovies prepared four ways.

Next up: SICILY & AMALFI COAST #24: SCENIC SCALA & ROMANTIC RAVELLO