SWITZERLAND & NORTHERN ITALY #2: MORE LOVELY LUCERNE

Language in Switzerland is interesting.  As I mentioned in my previous post, there are four official languages which include German; however, the German spoken in Lucerne is “Swiss German,” which is an Alemannic dialect.  It is only spoken, not written, and it is not a formal language.  So, the TV news, for example, is spoken in conventional German.

In school, the Swiss also learn French and English, so they are potentially trilingual—quite impressive!  It comes in handy with France to the west, Germany to the north, and Austria to the east.  Italy is south of Switzerland, and Italian is one of Switzerland’s four official languages; however, Italian isn’t taught in the schools.  I guess they figure three languages is enough!

Industry in Switzerland focuses on exporting chemical products, health and pharmaceutical goods, engine parts, and wood, in addition to those weapons and tanks I mentioned in my first post.  They also export dairy products, including some of the best cheese and chocolate in the world.

Do you know why Swiss chocolate is so good?  It’s because their cows are free range, grass-fed cows, and their grass grows very well, resulting in the best-quality milk.  That’s why all those cows you see roaming around in Switzerland are raised for dairy, not meat.  As a result, meat in Switzerland is very expensive, because it is imported.

As for that excellent chocolate, I sampled quite a bit while I was in Switzerland, and I brought back a lot of it.

Back to Lucerne, it is a beautiful city of 82,000 people situated on Lake Lucerne and the river Reuss.  Many buildings are painted with gorgeous frescos, so if you don’t look up during your exploration, you will miss a lot!

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

“In praise of the loyalty and bravery of the Swiss Guard.”

Next up: SWITZERLAND & NORTHERN ITALY #3: ON THE ROAD TO BERN

SWITZERLAND & NORTHERN ITALY #1: LOVELY LUCERNE

It had to happen at some point; our weather luck would eventually come to an end.  We had been so fortunate, beginning with the amazing weather we experienced in the Canadian Rockies in 2022, and at the end of our Argentina and Chile tour this past March, our tour leader said we had the best weather of all the tours that season.  It was truly phenomenal luck!

Now we were in Lucerne Switzerland to begin our tour with Overseas Adventure Travel, and the region hadn’t seen the sun in two months.  It had been an extremely long rainy period for Europe, and Germany was having horrible floods.  At least it wasn’t flooding in Lucerne, but the water level in the river was the highest our tour leader had ever seen.

First on the agenda: Head to the ATM for some Swiss Francs.  As with so many other countries, unlike the U.S., Switzerland’s currency is interesting and practical.  Not only is it colorful with each denomination a different color, but the sizes are different as well—extremely helpful to sight-impaired and blind people.  My legally blind friend in San Diego would have appreciated this, because he used to need help separating and folding his bills in his wallet, so he could differentiate them.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

One of the things we like best about Overseas Adventure Travel is their emphasis on being travelers rather than tourists.  One way they accomplish this is by educating us on the culture of each place we visit, including introducing a “controversial topic” and bringing in an expert to speak with the group.  In this case, the positives and negatives of Switzerland’s neutrality and government was discussed with the nine of us on the pre-extension, and our speaker was outstanding.

Switzerland’s government was modeled after ours here in the United States, even though it is a very small country—about the size of Delaware.  There are 26 Cantons (similar to states), and the city of Bern is their Washington D.C.  Swiss parliament is similar to U.S. Congress; however this is where the similarities end.  Due to Switzerland having four official languages and cultures, including German, French (mostly spoken in the west), Italian (mostly in the south and far east), and Romansh (an ancient language spoken by a small percentage of Swiss); they have 7 presidents that make up a federal council.  These presidents are parliament members elected by their peers.  This system has worked well, because the council has been good at compromising and working together for their people (unlike our current U.S. Congress!).  And, although Swiss citizens do not elect this council, they do vote four times a year on issues in the form of initiatives and referendums.

Switzerland has been neutral since 1815, and their banking system grew out of this neutrality.  Being politically neutral is safe—a draw for wealthy people looking for a safe place for their money.  As a result, what used to be the poorest country in Europe is now the richest.  Don’t get the bright idea of stashing your money anonymously in a Swiss bank, though.  Banking laws changed twenty years ago, and you can no longer deposit your money in Switzerland without paying taxes.

Due to Switzerland’s neutrality, they are not a part of NATO.  They do, however, support the sanctions that Europe and the U.S. has put on Russia due to their invasion of Ukraine.  As a result, Putin declared Switzerland to not be neutral.  *&^@ Putin.

One drawback of Switzerland’s neutrality was that the weapons and tanks they had produced were sold to Germany.  Germany then gave them to Ukraine, but Ukraine needs more ammunition to fire from these weapons and tanks.  Switzerland won’t sell this ammunition to Ukraine, because they are “neutral.”  This presents a big problem for Ukraine.  On the other hand, tiny Switzerland, a country with a population of over 8.8 million people, has accepted 100,000 refugees from Ukraine.  How nice.

BUT, these immigrants, as well as the 100,000 other immigrants they have accepted each year has caused a steep rise in housing prices, causing the cost of living to double over the last couple of years.  (In Lucerne, the average 1 bedroom apartment costs 2,600 CHF— more than $2,900!)  On top of that, salaries decreased for the Swiss due to immigrants accepting less pay.  Ouch!

More about Swiss culture in my next post, but for now, I will leave you with some scenes around lovely Lucerne, the most visited city by tourists (and travelers!) in Switzerland:

Kapellbruke (Chapel Bridge) was originally built in 1360; however, much of it was destroyed in a 1993 fire. It was rebuilt the following year.
In the evening, the bridge is lit up.
The bridge features 30 triangle-framed paintings by Hans Heinrich Wagmann that date back to the 17th century. These paintings depict events from Lucerne’s history and were restored after the fire.
The nearby Chaff Bridge was built in the 13th century and features Dance of Death paintings that date back to the 1600’s.

Coming up next:  SWITZERLAND & NORTHERN ITALY #2: MORE LOVELY LUCERNE

THE GRAND FINALE: A PERFECT DAY IN LUCERNE

My final post of this trip is a long one, but I hope you feel it was worth it in the end! 

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This was the view that greeted me as I stepped out on the balcony upon wakening on our last full day abroad.  On our final day in Lucerne, we were scheduled for a group tour of the lake and Mt. Pilatus, so we were hoping for good weather.  We had a wonderful lake cruise in a boat chartered just for our group of 40 Vantage Travelers.  It turned out to be a gorgeous day, so the photographers opted for the top deck and enjoyed the fresh air and warm sun.  The views were spectacular, including the top of Mt. Pilates, 7,000 feet up.  There were beautiful white puffy clouds hanging about, however, so we were hoping they would stay put and not cause a white-out at the top of the mountain.

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It was a day of experiencing many forms of transportation.  Following our one-hour boat tour, we disembarked at the railway station and boarded rail cars for our 30 minute trip up to the top of Mt. Pilates.  It was a steep ride, often at a 25-30% grade and I was fortunate enough to get the spot right behind the conductor where I could either shoot photos out the front window or out the open side window.  In many cases, I stuck my camera out the side window and pointed straight ahead where I was able to get some dramatic wide-angle (24mm) shots.  FABULOUS!  The conductor was a sweet man, too, pointing out everything he thought I should capture with my camera.

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The railway had quite an interesting history.  We were amazed it was built 125 years ago and took 600 men four summers to build.  They did a fabulous job!

 

When we arrived at the top of the mountain, we were in awe with the fabulous view.  The facilities were quite nice at the top with a restaurant, self-serve takeaway, and wonderful walking paths with stairs leading up to view points or down through tunnels leading to the backside of the mountain.  I hiked up the two main paths to the highest points of the mountain and down through two tunnels.  In between, we were entertained by Swiss men playing haunting tunes on their traditional Swiss horns, as well as by three paragliders!  Now, that wasn’t something I expected to see, but we sure were entertained, especially when one of the paragliders returned to buzz by the onlookers a couple of times, so we could get some good shots.  I was so surprised at how close they came and how quick he flew by, I wasn’t able to get a good shot off.  Instead, I cheered him on!

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After almost an hour and a half we were given to explore the hiking trails at soak in the beautiful picture postcard scenery, we boarded a large cable car that took us part of the way down the mountain.  While we were boarding, a cloud enveloped our car for a complete white-out!  We all just laughed, because we knew how lucky we were to have enjoyed perfect weather up at the top of the mountain, so we would have been asking for too much to expect it to continue any longer; especially since white-outs are common up on the mountain.

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As we descended, we were ecstatic to drop from the cloud, back into bright sunshine, again!  My Vantage travel mates, Mom and I were back to snapping away…

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On the way down, we took in the scenery of gorgeous trees and cows happily grazing on bright green grass.  We loved hearing the bells around their neck, but I wondered if the cows ever get tired of hearing them…

The remainder of our 20 minute cable ride was spent in smaller cable cars that seated four people, after transferring from the larger car, part-way down the mountain.  What a breathtaking experience it all was!  Again,  I felt like I had lived in the pages of a photo calendar or coffee table picture book; the kind I loved to pour over as a kid (and still do).

After being transported by bus (our final mode of transportation for the day) back into town, we visited the Lion Monument.  The dying lion of Lucerne, carved into natural rock, was created in 1820/1821 in memory of the Swiss heroes who gave their lives at the Tuileries in Paris, in 1792.  As you can see, it is quite the stone carving!  We were all in awe…

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We still had a few hours to enjoy the gorgeous weather, so Mom and I stayed in town to do some (more!!!) photography.  Needing to cool off from the warm sun, we also popped into Denner to write down some grocery store prices and pick up some (more!!!) chocolate.  Prices in Switzerland are steep.  A lake-front home will set you back 3-9 million Swiss Francs (which is stronger than our dollar).  A Big Mac will cost you 12 Francs; $15 in our currency.  Dine in a restaurant and you will go broke in a hurry.  Main courses start at 25 Francs and shoot on up from there- even at small, casual restaurants in the city.  (Something as basic as a bratwurst at a cart is 6 Francs.)

In Denner, these are some of the prices I noted (all are in Swiss Francs):

Yogurt- 175 grams (about 6 ounces) = 1.25

Bag of four small oranges = 2.25

Baguette = 2.20

6pk cans of Coke = 3.95

1 kg (2.2 pounds) of sugar = 1.95

100 g (3+ ounces) of Denner store brand chocolate = .45 (Wooohooo; what a deal!)

So, my conclusion was that some prices were comparable to prices in our stores (cereal and several other items were priced the same), however, others were steep.  Basically, if you do all of your own cooking and avoid dining out, you would be ok in Switzerland.  But, their standard of living and income is one of the highest in the world, so it is all relative.  The lowest annual salary anyone makes there is 30,000 Swiss Francs.

As for how the prices affected me, I quickly learned to only photograph the chocolate in the chocolatier displays and admire their artistry.  At US $60 per pound, on average, purchasing any was not an option.  Instead, I stocked up at the three grocery store chains, mostly buying their store brand at bargain prices.

“Dining” on our own was stopping for to enjoy Gelati for lunch or eating a bratwurst at a cart in the square.  One night for dinner, we found a back street takeaway and picked up a couple of falafels that we ate at the little café table outside.  It wasn’t a bargain at 8 Swiss Francs, but it sure beat the ridiculously high price of dining.

Mom was determined to dine by the river just once, though, so she treated us to a shared Tarte Flambe and main course-sized Swiss salad (with Swiss cheese, sausage and mixed greens).  Thanks Mom!

Our last night was lovely, dining at the Palace Hotel with a view of the lake.  It was our included farewell dinner and we dined in style.  What a wonderful way to end a spectacular trip on a high note!  And, to cap it off, Mom and I took the funicular to the hotel up the hill from ours, so we could soak in this gorgeous view:

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And, on that note, I will wrap up this marathon post by saying this trip was no less than PERFECT.

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Nico was a wonderful program manager (our guide for the 44 of us in the yellow group) and Vantage Travel was excellent.  I feel completely comfortable highly recommending them, so please let me know if you are interested, so I can provide them your contact information to receive a catalog.  Disclaimer:  I do receive a $100 discount on future travel if somebody I recommend books a trip; however, that is not my motivation.  Besides, whomever I refer ALSO gets $100 credit!  Vantage Travel is fantastic, and, from what I hear from other passengers, a better deal than competitors and (almost) everything is included in the price.

Thank you for sticking with me and reading my posts; I hope you enjoyed them!

 

LOVELY LUCERNE

 

We were supposed to spend all three nights of our post-extension in Lucerne; however, there were no hotels available in Lucerne for the first night, because of a huge music festival.  So, our first night was spent in Bern.  Nobody was disappointed, because we all fell in love with Bern during our walking tour, before we even checked into the hotel.  And, as an extra bonus, Vantage Travel booked us into the top five star hotel; the same place where heads of state stay, as well as the rich and famous.  It was THE hotel in Switzerland’s capitol. We sure were spoiled…

Lucerne, however, was fabulous.  The Palace Hotel wasn’t quite at the level of the Bellevue, but it was a top hotel located right on the lake and close to the city center.  (I mean, when you are used to staying at Microtel Inns like I am, how could I complain?  Don’t get me wrong; Microtels are the top-rated chain for their price, but they are far from the 4-5 star hotels we stayed at during our pre-extension and post-extension!) And, the weather was fabulous, once we got past the few drizzles we encountered our first day.  Yesterday, however, the sun was shining and temperatures reached the mid-70’s; quite a bit above normal for this time of year.

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The Palace Hotel

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The Place Hotel in the distance.

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The view from our hotel.

The first day, we had a walking tour after we arrived and free time on our own for the remainder of the day.  It was very enjoyable, because Lucerne is such a great city for walking!

Lucerne is a gorgeous city, located on the lake and surrounded by mountains; Mt. Pilates being the most famous one.  Since the city was built on both sides of the lake, there are several bridges connecting each side.  But, the bridge that draws the most visitors (and photographs) is the famous Chapel Bridge, built in 1333.  All along the bridge are beautifully painted gables.  And, hanging along the exterior of each side of the bridge are loads of flowers of every color, in perfect bloom.  It was so colorful and picturesque!  And, since many of the locals and tourists come there with scraps of bread to feed the swans, the water was full of snow white swans hoping for a free handout.  There were a few ducks though; outnumbered but a lot quicker, so they fought for their share- and won.

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The (very) old city center was quite attractive and interesting, because of the numerous buildings with beautifully painted facades.  And, there were many outdoor cafes; a typically European feature.  Along the lake front, there was one right after another; most with only outdoor seating. 

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After returning to the hotel to unpack and kick up our feet to rest for a short time, we were back at it, walking into town for a light dinner and some night photography.  Most of the buildings were not lit up enough to photograph, but I did get one shot of this church, as well as one of our hotel.

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