TURKIYE #16: TWO CONTROVERSIAL TOPICS: LGBTQ+ AND TURKS & KURDS

During every Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT) tour, there is a “controversial topic” presented by either the tour leader or a guest speaker. Nuri, our tour leader, discussed two during this tour: LGBTQ+ rights in Turkiye and the Turks / Kurds controversy.

In 2013, Turkiye ranked very low for LGBTQ+ rights—39th out of 49 countries. Eleven years later, it dropped further to 47th. Prior to 2013, there were some glimmers of hope for gays. In 1980, the Green Party, which was one of four political parties, supported gay rights. And in 1994, another political party banned the discrimination of gays, even though the government wasn’t liberal at the time. In 1999, it was the first time a transgender nominee ran for Istanbul city council. Tiny glimmers…

That hope, however, was overshadowed by overwhelming homophobia in the government of Turkiye. In 2009, the European Union denied Turkiye membership because of it.

The common citizen of Turkiye held a different view. In 2003, Turkiye was the first Muslim majority country to have a gay pride march. Only 30 people participated, but it was a start. Participation grew to 15,000 in 2013 and 100,000 in 2015! The parade was canceled after that by the government, which currently doesn’t recognize same sex marriage, even though the typical citizen has no problem with it.

Istanbul has the most tolerant population as opposed to the Kurds in eastern Turkiye who hold a zero-tolerance view of gays and same sex marriage.

That brings me to controversial topic #2: Turks / Kurds controversy. The Kurds are the world’s largest population without a state. There are 80 million Kurds living in and around Turkiye, Syria, and Iraq, and a total of 100 million in the world.

In Turkiye, since 2015, Kurds have not been allowed to speak their own language in schools, and Kurdish books are banned. Nuri nailed it when he said, “The Turkish government and Kurd terrorists are worse than each other.”

Kurds are forced to be like Turks and not allowed to be themselves. Ordinary Kurds are caught in the middle between the Turkish government and Kurd terrorists.

Nuri’s father owned two stores that handled importing fabric from Iran, making products, and then exporting the finished product back to Iran. His father wouldn’t support the Kurd terrorists financially because of their violence and killings. Instead, he supported the poor Kurd families in town. The terrorists didn’t take too kindly to that and burned down his businesses. That was in 1995, and it took Nuri’s father the next six years to build his businesses back up. He died in 2005 due to the stress of it all, and Nuri had to work two part-time jobs after school to support his younger siblings.

If Nuri’s father had supported the terrorists, the Turkish government would have retaliated. He was stuck in the middle.

Coming up next: TURKIYE #17: EXTRAORDINARY EPHESUS

TURKIYE #1: INTERESTING ISTANBUL

I will give you one guess as to why I was M.I.A. since my last post… Yes! I was traveling again! This time, we were in the Basque country of France, northern Spain, and Portugal for 23 days. After that fabulous tour, we were home for one week and then took off for eight days to Toronto. Those blogs will eventually be posted, but I last left you in Sicily, and on our way to Turkiye for a back-to-back tour.

Yes, it is now spelled “Turkiye” rather than “Turkey” (like our Thanksgiving bird). Although the country has been spelled “Turkiye” since it became a republic in 1923 (surprise!), the country pushed the rest of the world to recognize and adopt that spelling in 2021. Other countries have been asleep at the switch, however, still hanging on to the incorrect spelling. The United Nations didn’t recognize the “new” spelling until 2024, and Overseas Adventure Travel, the company we use for small group tours, spelled the country “Turkey” in its “Final Document Booklet” they sent us prior to departure. Wake up, World!

It was dark when we arrived at Sultanahmet Palace Hotel, in Istanbul, and when we stepped out of the car, this was the first thing we saw, just across the street from the hotel’s entrance:

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

We knew this was going to be a very interesting city…

Istanbul, the largest city in Turkiye, is home to more than 15 million people, most of whom are ethnic Turks with Kurds being the largest minority. Another minority represented in Istanbul are Sepharic Jews, which date back to 390. Unlike Jews in Europe, Ottomon Jews were allowed to work in any profession, and they excelled in commerce and trade as well as medicine. Although 10% of the population in Istanbul were Jews at its highest point, there are now less than 15,000 Jews due to emigration to Israel.

What I didn’t realize is that geographically, Istanbul is situated on two continents— Europe and Asia. About two thirds of the population resides on the Europe side, and the rest live in Asia.  The World’s narrowest straight used for international navigation, the Bosporus, separates the two continents, and it’s a bustling waterway.

Our hotel was perfectly situated, just a short walk from the Hippodrome of Constantinople, the central square, where we enjoyed exploring the mosques, doing photography (day and night), and just watching all the people during our free time. Four nights and three full days was a good amount of time for the planned activities with the group and seeing what we wanted to on our own in the historic city center, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Never did either of us feel unsafe in the city center, day or night, even when I went out on my own to do photography. We thoroughly enjoyed this interesting city!

These are just some of the scenes from our first day in Istanbul before joining our group.

Before leaving home, a friend gave me this 1970 Turkish note. Little did he know, the zeros have since disappeared, and this is now worth about ten cents with the exchange rate!
The front patio of our hotel
The back patio of our hotel where we ate breakfast had quite a view!
The ceiling of the restaurant patio where we enjoyed our first Turkish meal.
The center of a huge ceramic plate.

Next up: TURKIYE #2: THE GIGANTIC GRAND BAZAAR