SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #7: BIARRITZ & SAINT-JEAN-DE-LUZ

The last day of our pre-trip extension began as a rainy one, so our stops along the coast of Biarritz and Bay of Biscay were a bit of a bust at first and we missed out on what would have been beautiful views.  Still, the tumultuous seas and dark skies were alluring in their own way, and I found them intriguing to photograph.  Once I was out on the old wood-slat pier looking down on the waves crashing against the rocks, I didn’t want to leave.  I could have stood there watching for hours, it was so mesmerizing. 

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Not leaving the pier with the rest of the group was a mistake though.  A large wave came crashing in, streams of water came rushing up through the slats of the pier and all over me.  I was drenched!  Thankfully, I was wearing quick drying travel pants, because I eventually dried out during the bus ride and while walking under the sunny skies of Saint-Jean-de-Luz.

Shot through the wet bus window while heading to our last stop in Biarritz
Biarritz is a surfing town, known for its huge waves (the second largest wave in Europe) and professional surfing tournaments.

The picturesque fishing village and resort of Saint-Jean-de-Luz was a wonderful place for photography and taking in the views of the harbor and the beachfront of Bay of Biscay.  Colorful half-timbered Basque homes added to the charm.

Beachfront homes:

Scenes around town:

Biarritz is known for its striped and nautical fabrics…
…and making espadrille shoes
They even have their own version of the little free library!

We were so fortunate the skies had cleared for our last day in southwestern France, before continuing to Bilbao to begin our main tour!

Merci, Tom, for being a wonderful tour guide!

Next up: SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #8: BRILLIANT BILBAO

SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #5: BEAUTIFUL BAYONNE

Bayonne, like the other towns we visited in southwestern France, is in the Basque Country.  Its history stretches back more than 2,000 years, so it is full of culture, beautiful architecture.

Built along the intersection of two rivers, it is located quite close to the Spanish border and has a population of more than 53,000 people.  My favorite part of its history is that it became the unofficial chocolate capital of France in the 17th century.  Cacao beans were first brought home to Spain by the Spanish colonists upon their return from South America.  Since Bayonne was right next door, they got in on the action when Jews fleeing the Spanish Inquisition relocated in nearby Bayonne and started producing chocolate. Back then, there were 60 chocolatiers that all worked together to grow the industry, but each one had its own specialty

Currently there are about ten high-end chocolatiers in town, including Chocolat Cazenave, which has been making chocolate since 1854.  I enjoyed stopping in at a few of the chocolatiers to look at their beautiful creations but took a pass on purchasing their pricey masterpieces.

An interesting part of Bayonne’s history began in the 1930’s when the Basque people sought autonomy and started a separatist movement.  Although it culminated in a statute of autonomy in 1936, Spain’s dictator, Francisco Franco, abolished it when he came in power in 1939.  The struggle continued for another twenty years until a faction of the Basque’s National Party broke away and launched a campaign of terrorism against the Spanish central government, making Basque regionalism one of the most destabilizing forces in Spanish political life.

During our walking tour the morning following our arrival, we stopped by an ETA clubhouse and saw some of the political murals nearby, which were explained by Tom, our tour leader:

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Basque prisoners that were disappeared

The views of the colorful half-timbered buildings along the rivers were charming and quite photogenic, especially in the late afternoon sun:

More scenes from around Bayonne during our two days in town:

The Basque flag hangs from the balcony
Some of the businesses had plaques in the front listing the history of the owners and what type of business it was each time.
There were also signs to be respectful of those historic buildings!
Down the street from our hotel
The view from our hotel room (left)
The view from our hotel room (right)
Distorted panorama of the sweeping view to the left, and then right from our hotel window
Just before dusk
The riverfront at dusk

Coming up next: SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #6: BEAUTIFUL BAYONNE