ARGENTINA & CHILE #4: BEAUTIFUL BARILOCHE

Bariloche” (San Carlos de Bariloche) was about a two-hour flight from Buenos Aires and well worth the effort it took for our group to get there.  There had been a strike of airport workers the day before, so all flights had been canceled, leaving the airlines having to deal with a big mess the day we flew out.  There was a long wait to check in; however, we made it to our gate in time for our flight.

Located in the mountains of northern Patagonia, we had expected it to be cold and windy, the typical weather for the region, even in the summer.  As a matter of fact, on the windiest days in Bariloche, cars line up in the parking lot next to the lake for a free car wash! 

I was shocked when the forecast showed a high of 79 and no wind on our day of arrival, and we were warned that we could experience all four seasons in a single day.  Don’t like the weather?  Wait five minutes, and it will change.  Except, it didn’t change much during the entire three days we were in Bariloche.  It was warm and sunny our first day and got even warmer!  So much for the cold-weather clothes and rain gear I had packed; I wore shorts and t-shirts in Bariloche!

Upon our arrival at Cacique Inacayal Hotel, we were greeted with this breathtaking view of Nahuel Huapi Lake, a 40-mile long lake surrounded by the foothills of the Andes.  The hotel was beautiful—interesting architecture and a lot of wood and stone fit in perfectly with the Alpine vibe of this city settled by the Germans and Swiss.  Nicknamed “Little Switzerland,” it’s the second-most visited destination in Argentina, and I instantly could see why.  The city sits in the center of Nahuel Huapi National Park, which offers many outdoor activities and sightseeing, which we would be doing the following day.  Stay tuned!

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view. Desktop computer monitors are best!)

Meanwhile, we settled into our room before Andrea led us on a walking tour of the town.  We were fortunate the top-floor room we got was unwanted by the couple it was assigned to, because of the stairs required to reach it after the elevator ride.  We prefer taking stairs rather than elevators for the exercise, so we gladly accepted the switch.  This is our room with the gorgeous view:

The view of our top-floor room from the bar patio.

The town center was a short walk away, and I found it to be quite charming—and, a bit (pleasantly!) distracting.  Not only does Bariloche have the nickname “Little Switzerland,” but it lives up to that name with all its chocolate shops!  Stay tuned for more about that, too, in an upcoming post…

White scarf symbols of the Grandmothers of May Square were painted throughout the square, along with names of those who were “disappeared”– a memorial to those who were never found.
Black-Faced Ibis

Following our walking tour, we gathered at the hotel to meet Christina, from the Mapuche Nation, to learn about the struggles and culture of her native people.  MAPU (land) CHE (people) were the first people of the region which today covers the southern half of Chile and Argentina.  Throughout their history, they have had to fight fiercely to maintain self-determination and freedom—first, against the Inca Empire, and then for over 400 years against the Spanish, Chilean, and Argentinian authorities.

Why do native people always get the shaft?  American Indians, Alaskan Eskimos, Australian Aboriginals, New Zealand Maoris; and; the Mapuche, which evidence proves, have been in Patagonia for 16,000 years!  I could go on and on; there are many more natives just like them throughout the world getting the shaft.  They all have this in common: They were there first, but they are treated horribly by those who followed, and they get no respect.

In Chile, there is a law that doesn’t allow the Mapuche to protest.  If they do, they are considered “terrorists” under the anti-terrorist law.  The bottom line?  They have less rights than American Indians.

Learning about the Mapuche history and culture fascinated me, and I was most intrigued by their spiritual beliefs.  As Christina explained, they only believe in what they can see; they do not believe in God.  Our trusty guidebook explained it this way, “The spiritual belief of the Mapuche people is closely linked to the land and their natural environment from which the power of life emanates of a divine family that creates and sustains man and nature.  Man is perceived as a part of nature that is interconnected with all the surrounding elements.”

Our first day in Bariloche concluded with the group enjoying dinner together at the hotel—the best part being this exquisite chocolate dessert:

View of the sunset from our room

Next up:  ARGENTINA & CHILE #5:  BREATHTAKING VIEWS OF BARILOCHE & A BREWERY

ARGENTINA & CHILE #3: MORE OF BUSTLING BUENOS AIRES

Our (very!) full day began with a city highlights tour led by Nora, an excellent local guide.  The first destination was Plaza de Mayo (May Square), the main foundational site of Buenos Aires.  This is where history is made.  It has been the site of Argentina’s largest and most important political demonstrations.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view. Desktop computer monitors are best!)

An afternoon view of the plaza when we returned following the city tour.
Metropolitan Cathedral on Plaza de Mayo

Plaza de Mayo is also the meeting site for Grandmothers of May Square and the location of their headquarters and museum of memory of 30,000 citizens who were detained during the military dictatorship of 1976 – 1983. We learned about the human rights organization and their work in trying to find the 30,000 young people who were “disappeared”— either kidnapped or born to mothers in prison, stolen, and illegally appropriated.  Assisted by United States geneticist Mary-Claire King, the Grandmothers have located about 25% of the estimated 500 children kidnapped or born in detention centers.  The kidnapped babies were part of a systematic government plan to have them appropriated to “correct” families that supported the dictatorship.

Our group met one of the victims, Guillermo, and heard his heart-wrenching story.  He is one of the (now adult) “disappeared” children who had been born to a Jewish mother but stolen and given to a Catholic couple and given a new identity.  He learned the truth at age 21.  Both of his grandmothers were part of the original Mothers of May Square.  He was found because his sister had provided DNA to find her parents.  It was through that match that he was found as well.

You can imagine how the truth destroyed Guillermo’s relationship with the couple he thought were his birth parents.  They had committed crimes by taking him, and then lied about it for 21 years.  As a result, his “father” served seven years in prison, and his “mother” served three years.  Neither sentence was long enough; car thieves serve more for their crimes.

Ultimately, he learned that his birth parents were “disappeared” for being student political activists who protested the dictatorship.  They were kidnapped, tortured, and killed.

While we were at Plaza de Mayo, we saw the changing of the grenadier guard, marching from Plaza de Mayo to the monument of Argentina liberator San Martin inside Metropolitan Cathedral.

Casa Rosada (Pink Palace)

Next, we visited the colorful La Boca neighborhood where the Argentine tango was born.  “Colorful” is an understatement, really, because bright colors pop from every building and mural throughout the streets of this neighborhood settled by mostly Italian immigrants.  Blue and yellow are especially popular—the colors of their soccer team and neighborhood “futbol” stadium.

That’s a statue of Lionel Messi up on that balcony.
Everywhere we looked, there were these funky life-sized statues on balconies!
Boca Juniors Futbol (Soccer) Stadium
Several shops and houses were painted in the Boca Juniors team colors.
Argentinians love their meat…
…especially steak.
This newer business fit right in with its colorfully-painted facade.

Following the city tour, we opted to be dropped off back at Plaza de Mayo to shoot a couple of afternoon photos of the square before walking to San Telmo, the oldest neighborhood of Buenos Aires.  We got a kick out of Paseo de las historieta, a four-block section of Balcarce Street full of street art dedicated to Argentina’s most popular cartoon characters.

Andrea’s Buena Onda OTT group: Notice what they are drinking! I’ll get back to that in a future post!

The posh and hip Puerto Madero was where our group enjoyed our Welcome Dinner.  Argentina is world-renowned for their steak, but Bruce and I opted for Pacu, a local fish. 

The view from our restaurant
Reflections

This was the first of many delicious varieties of dulce de leche desserts we enjoyed throughout the tour. I was hooked!

Coming up next:  ARGENTINA & CHILE #4:  BEAUTIFUL BARILOCHE