SWITZERLAND & NORTHERN ITALY #12: VENTURING OFF TO A VALTELLINA VALLEY GOAT FARM & TIRANO

When I heard we would be visiting a goat farm for our “Day in the Life” excursion (an Overseas Adventure Travel feature on every tour), I immediately thought of my friend, Laura.  Years ago, when she visited me and Bruce (and after we all had one too many glasses of wine), a funny conversation we were having about goats led to Laura exclaiming, “Bring in the goats!”  I don’t remember what the story was or how the topic of goats came up, but “Bring in the goats!” has been a joke between us ever since.  Whenever Bruce and I see goats, one (or both) of us quote Laura, have a giggle, and immediately think of her.  So, Laura, this post is dedicated to you!

The farm we visited was in the Valtellina Valley, in the Alpine region of Italy near the Swiss border.  Known for its agriculture and cheese-making, we participated in both activities after first meeting the goats.

First, a little background: The hillsides and hamlets of this region used to be home to the rich; however, when people started moving into the cities, the small hamlets became depopulated and abandoned.  To encourage people to return and build the population back up, abandoned homes were offered by the government for 1 Euro, but with strings attached.  The new owners were required to commit to renovating and living in these homes.  That worked well during COVID, when people started working remotely, fleeing the cities, and repopulating the region.  More and more people are continuing to return to farming and living in more remote places such as the Valtellina Valley again.

We visited Fattoria al Dos in Castello dell’ Acqua and were hosted by Gabriele, his son, Michele, and Gabriele’s dad.  Their farm had been passed down by Gabriele’s great grandfather through the generations, and Gabriele now does most of the work while his father handles the tourism end of the business, such as hosting groups like ours.

Their goats were a friendly bunch!  They immediately came over to meet us, and they loved being scratched on the head!  If we stopped giving them attention, they just stood there and stared at us, waiting for more.  It was quite evident that once we were on the scene, they didn’t care about eating the hay that was piled up for them.

After learning about their goats and the milking process, the scene that unfolded brought out an instinctive, “Bring in the goats!” from both of us.  While we watched, the goats were brought out of the barn and herded by their dog, Simba, to an area where they could feast on fresh grass.

Simba, keeping an eye out on the goats.

We also helped plant potatoes and learned how to make goat cheese.  Their 60 goats yield about 30-40,000 liters of milk a year that is worked into cheese.  One hundred liters of milk yields about 17-33 pounds of cheese, just to give you an idea of their production, which they sell locally.

It was interesting tasting the different cheeses they make, from young to aged.  We were then served a traditional farm lunch of risotto.  For dessert, we enjoyed the cheese we each had made, accompanied by homemade fruit jam or honey.

Our time at the farm was so enjoyable, and it was fun learning about the life of the three generations working the farm.  Gabriele and his wife are hoping that Michele will carry on the tradition!

Looking down the hill from their farm, the view was of this little village cemetery.

Following our return to Tirano, Bruce rested while I wandered through the town doing photography, one of my favorite travel activities.  I most enjoy exploring quaint, character-filled places that inspire my curiosity, encourage me to peek and poke around corners, get lost, and totally immerse myself in the moment.  Tirano was one of those places.

Entering the historic quarter,,,

Our evening concluded with these wood-fired pizzas that cost only $13– for both! The one on the left is a traditional “pizza quattro stagioni” (four seasons), which explains why the ingredients were kept separate! Bruce and I split the pizzas, but I passed on the “winter” season.

Coming up next: SWITZERLAND & ITALY #13: ALL ABOARD—AGAIN!

ITALY #13: CHIANTI COUNTRYSIDE

Chianti is a mountainous area of Tuscany known for its world-class wine production, cured meats, cheeses, and fine cuisine.  Florence, where we spent much of the day (shown in my previous post, Italy #12), is located in Chianti.  After we departed Florence, we headed out into the countryside towards our home for the next three nights, Villa Il Leccio

The Chianti countryside is beautiful—rolling green hills, vineyards, and scenic vistas around every turn.  When we arrived at Villa Il Leccio, we were delighted to see that the views were stunning, and the villa was gorgeous.

Giada, the owner, and her nephew, welcomed us warmly.  After we settled in, we were gathered on the terrace for a champagne reception, followed by a guided tour.

The villa has been in Giada’s family for 300 years; however, the building dates back to the 1200’s.  When the Landi family purchased the villa in the eighteenth century, they used it as a country residence where the family gathered in the summer.

In the 1800’s, the land was cultivated into a prosperous farm.  The villa was then converted by Giada’s mother into a country resort in 1998.

Villa Il Leccio is the most charming place we have ever stayed, and meals there were memorable. Breakfasts and dinners were prepared by Giada and served by her nephew.  In the morning, there was a beautiful display of a variety of breads and cakes, along with hot dishes, fruit, cereals, and fresh juices.  Dinner was a three-course meal, accompanied by Villa Il Leccio private label wine.  The dining room was beautiful at night and the table décor included fresh cuttings from the garden where they grow all their own flowers, herbs, and vegetables. 

My pictures don’t do it justice, but these are the photos I shot during our stay:

(For all pictures, click on the image to see full screen view.)

This room was added on in the 1700’s, and these frescoes were painted at that time.
The frescoes in the breakfast room date back to the 1500’s.
Original kitchen
The original kitchen is where a breakfast buffet was set up each morning.
To get to our room, we entered the piano room, went through the sitting room with the frescoes, turned into the breakfast room, made another turn into the original kitchen, and ended up here. We continued up the stairs, and finally arrived to our room. I’m not complaining; I was happy to be able to wander through the sprawling villa each time, so I could enjoy the beauty of each room!
This is the back of the villa.
Giada and her nephew
The formal dining room where we gathered each evening for a lovely meal.

The following morning, we drove through the Chianti Valley to visit Li’Apicorno, Martha and Petro’s goat and bee farm.  Martha showed us how goat cheese is made and what life is like raising goats.  We got to meet the goats, which were quite friendly!

It was chaos when Petro let the babies out to find their mom’s for a feeding!
Petro fed the goats chestnuts, a big treat for them!

Not far from the goat farm was Buondonno, the family winery run by Martha’s father.  We enjoyed a wonderful lunch served with Chianti Classico wine, while enjoying views from the terrace overlooking the Chianti Valley. It was such a classically exquisite Italian experience! 

Risotto with goat cheese
Our tour leader, Ben, with Deb and Cesare, our driver
Their dog made the rounds to each of us to get petted– and for (hopeful!) hand-out.
Bruce gave Martha a pair of his fused glass earrings as a gift. It just so happened that blue was her favorite color!

Later in the afternoon, Oscar led us on a walk across the valley from Villa Il Leccio, so we could enjoy views of the villa and the countryside.

A zoomed-in view of Villa Il Leccio off in the distance

What a beautiful place!

Next up: OLIVE OIL AND PASTA IN THE CHIANTI COUNTRYSIDE

Note: If small group travel is of interest to you, I highly recommend Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT). Although Bruce and I travel together, they do not charge a single supplement for those who travel on their own. Singles also get their own room at hotels. If you book, you can get $100 off your trip by providing my name and customer number (Elaine Krugman, #3018126) as the person who referred you. I will also get $100 off future travel– a win-win!