TERRIFIC TORONTO #6: ITS IDYLLIC ISLANDS

The Toronto Islands were on our must-see list from the moment we started researching the city for our trip, but the idea was cemented following our harbor cruise that included the islands. They were beautiful, from what we could see from the boat, and we wanted to explore more on foot.

Although there are water taxis that will get you to the islands faster, what’s the rush? We took the less expensive and relaxing route by hopping on a ferry at the Jack Layton Ferry Terminal. Depending on the arrival destination, ferries leave as often as every 15 minutes, and the cost for a round-trip ticket is only $9.11 for adults, $5.86 for students, and $4.29 for seniors. No extra charge for your bicycle. Hot tip: Be a contrarian, avoid the longer lines, and don’t take the Centre Island ferry like most tourists do. We opted for Hanlan’s Point and then enjoyed the beautiful walk that ultimately took us to Center Island for the trip back to the city. When we returned on our last day, we saw the west portion of the islands and took the Ward’s Island ferry.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Jack Layton Ferry Terminal Mosaic Mural

Toronto thought of everything when it came to signage on the islands for tourists. One of the signs provides the distance between each of the three island ferry terminals (Centre Island, Hanlan’s Point, and Ward’s Island) and the amount of time it takes (on average) to walk between them. Of course, if it’s your visit, I doubt you will want to walk directly from one terminal to the other without stopping to take pictures, wiggle your toes in the sand, and dip one into frigid Lake Ontario. It does help with planning, though, so it was much appreciated. From where we landed at Hanlan’s Point, we knew it would be a 3.9 km walk to Centre Island. Taking inevitable detours, this alone indicated we would want to return another day to see Ward’s Island, since I knew my torn knee meniscus wouldn’t be able to handle the extra minimum of 2.9 km of walking. (I’m happy to say my surgically repaired knee could take that on now!)

Another sign described each of the islands, just in case you couldn’t make up your mind which to see. “Hanlan’s Point is renowned for its beautiful sandy shores and is home to Toronto’s only clothing optional beach. It has been a gathering space for 2SLGBTQ+ people for nearly a century and is believed to be Canada’s oldest surviving queer space and one of the oldest continuous queer spaces in the world.”

“Ward’s Island offers a unique glimpse into the island’s residential community with charming houses and a relaxed, vintage-like atmosphere. Stroll through peaceful streets or explore the sandy beach.”

Centre Island has plenty of tourist activities, including an amusement park, restaurants, and a beach with a pier.

There are other islands in the chain, fifteen in all, but these are the main ones that are easiest to access on foot. Although the total population on the islands is 700 (300 homes), many leave in the winter when the lake freezes over.

Come along with us as we disembark the ferry at Hanlan’s Point and see the islands on foot:

Hanlan’s Point Terminal
The view from the terminal looking back on the city is worth the price of the ferry ticket! Wait long enough, and you will see a plane coming into the airport for a landing. You can see it in front of CN Tower.
Gibralter Point Lighthouse, the second oldest surviving lighthouse in Canada, was completed in 1809.
The skyline view from Centre Island

Our final day in Toronto at Ward’s Island and Centre Island:

What an awesome treehouse!
The Centre Island walkway to the ferry terminal divided a beautiful park.
Self portrait

So long, Canada! Until we meet again! Thank you for being so warm and friendly– and not assuming we are all in support of our current White House occupant.

My favorite memory: The woman in front of us in line at Loblaw’s at Maple Leaf Gardens. She saw us counting what remained of our Canadian currency and discussing how much, if any, we would have left after our purchases. We were trying to use up our Canadian currency; however, I think she thought we were worried we didn’t have enough money. She turned to us and asked if she could pay for our groceries! I quickly explained our situation and politely declined, thanking her with enthusiasm and gratitude. (After all, it was a stack of Canadian Cadbury bars I was purchasing to bring home, because the American stuff is awful. We were not in need and weren’t going to go hungry.) Thank you, from the bottom of my hear!

TERRIFIC TORONTO #3: MANY MARVELOUS MURALS

For mural and graffiti artists, Toronto is THE place to visit. We had never seen as many murals in such a small geographical area as we did in the Kensington Market and Graffiti Alley neighborhood. There were several scattered around the city as well.

Kensington Market, and old neighborhood, was designated a National Historic Site of Canada in 2006. A hub for artists and writers, the multicultural neighborhood has become a tourist attraction, especially for walking tours. A big draw to the neighborhood is the abundance of murals painted on every surface imaginable.

Nearby, in Toronto’s Fashion District, is Graffiti Alley, located on Rush Lane. Another hot spot for tourists and walking tours, we were amazed at the murals we saw there!

Join me on our self-guided, meandering walking tour where I photographed many, many more marvelous murals than what you will see here!

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Ok, so this isn’t a mural, but it’s still a colorful work of art!
Our favorite mural EVER!

More murals scattered around town:

A tile mosaic mural:

Coming up next: TERRIFIC TORONTO #4: DISTILLERY DISTRICT, SHOE MUSEUM & ALLAN GARDENS CONSERVATORY

TERRIFIC TORONTO #2: SUPER ST. LAWRENCE MARKET, DOG FOUNTAIN, AND NATHAN PHILLIPS SQUARE

My regular readers know how much we enjoy visiting markets, so you won’t be surprised we visited one in Toronto. St. Lawrence Market, a public market, is a popular tourist destination. While we were there, tour groups came through, and buses were constantly dropping off and picking up tourists.

First established in the early 19th century, the first market was damaged in the Great Fire of Toronto of 1849, so it was replaced. In 2012, National Geographic named St. Lawrence Market the world’s best food market.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

As a dog lover with “AQUADOG” as my license plate (AQUA, because I am a competitive swimmer with U.S. Masters Swimming), I got a kick out seeing Berczy Park’s Dog Fountain, a short walk from St. Lawrence Market. Opened in 1980, the adorable, dog-friendly park replaced a parking lot, and the fountain was added in 2017. Dogs appreciate the gravel area for doing their business, and they can get rehydrated at the ground-level fountain trough. The two-tier fountain features 27 painted cast iron statues of dogs that spit out the fountain’s water. Sitting atop the fountain wall is “Pam McCat,” named after the councilwoman who spearheaded the construction of the park.

What a hoot! The dogs are all looking up at the bone perched at the top of the fountain, and the cat couldn’t care less about the dogs. She’s keeping her eye on the two yellow birds perched on the arm of a lamp post ten feet away!

While photographing the pooches, I noticed they were looking a bit battered. That is all in the process of changing; the dogs are getting a new coat!

This building, in the process of being renovated, is at the end of Dog Park. Love the painting!

Nathan Phillips Square is another popular spot for busloads of tourists because of the “TORONTO” sign and fountain surrounded by downtown skyrises and Toronto City Hall.

We visited the square to photograph the huge sign, both during the day and at night. At 10 feet tall and 72 feet long, it gets a lot of attention! Originally constructed temporarily for the 2015 Pan American Games, the city decided to keep it permanent after it became a popular attraction for locals and tourists alike.

Seeing the sign at night was beautiful. Lit by LED, the lights can create an estimated 228 million color combinations. We only saw one, but it was well worth the walk from our hotel to see it!

Next up: TERRIFIC TORONTO #3: MANY MARVELOUS MURALS

TERRIFIC TORONTO #1: A FIRST LOOK AROUND TOWN

One week after returning from our 23-day tour of southern France, Northern Spain, and Portugal, we flew to Toronto. We had never visited the city, so we planned on a relaxing eight-day stay, rather than rushing around and trying to see it all in just a few days.

We packed very light. Between the two of us, we shared a rollaboard and small backpack and didn’t check any luggage.

It was very easy and convenient to take the train from the airport to Union Station, and then transfer to a  city train into the city center at College Station. From there, it was a two-minute walk to our hotel, Holiday Inn Downtown Centre, which was very convenient—the reason why we chose it. Hotels are very expensive in Toronto, so that was another consideration for our boring hotel choice!

When we travel on our own, if breakfast isn’t included where we are staying, we make sure to book at a hotel with refrigerators in the rooms, so we can pick up yogurt and fruit at a grocery store for our breakfasts. Conveniently, the most amazing grocery store we had ever seen was just down the street: Loblaws at Maple Leaf Gardens. Former home of the Toronto Maple Leafs hockey team, the arena was cleverly converted into a beautiful super (duper!) market. We never would have realized the history of the building if it hadn’t been for a very nice lady who overheard us and knew we were tourists. She offered to show us around and then took us down the aisle that was once center ice to show us where it all began.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

As you can see, Loblaws had so many great ready-to-eat options, we ended up shopping there for dinner on many nights, too!

Just a few doors down from our hotel in the other direction was another market of a different sort: Bulk Barn. One step inside, we knew we were in TROUBLE. Take a look at the selections on their website, and you might agree—especially their chocolate selection! We visited the store more than once, that’s for sure! We also purchased several spices that we wanted to try in small quantities to bring home with us.

All settled in at the hotel, groceries in the refrigerator, and ready to roll, we set out to get our first look around town. What impressed us was how nice walking downtown was for us and how safe we felt.

The following are miscellaneous pictures of this and that, as well as some reflections of architecture photographed during our time in Toronto.  There will be a lot more themed photos in posts to come!

Queen’s Park
Art Gallery of Ontario

Coming up next: TERRIFIC TORONTO #2: SUPER ST. LAWRENCE MARKET, DOG FOUNTAIN, AND NATHAN PHILLIPS SQUARE

CRUISING THE GREAT LAKES #6: TOURING THUNDER BAY, ONTARIO

Bruce and I had $300 of onboard credit with American Queen Voyages to use during our cruise aboard the Ocean Navigator, so we chose to use it for a couple of premium tours, including one in Thunder Bay.

Situated on Lake Superior, Thunder Bay is on the Canadian side of the border, in Ontario.  The French were the first Europeans to settle in Thunder Bay as a fur trading post along the Kaministiquia River.  Mining and forestry were the next industries to develop, and now Thunder Bay is best known for medical research and education. 

This city of about 109,000 residents is quite isolated. Forget about taking a flight in or out of Thunder Bay; you’ll have to go to Toronto for that.  I just looked it up on Google Maps, and the quickest route will take you over 14 hours to get there by car.  As a matter of fact, the closest city to Thunder Bay is an 8-hour drive away! 

Thunder Bay has managed to develop a fantastic culture and arts scene, though, so there is plenty to do for the residents.  Declared the “Cultural Capital of Canada” in 2003, Thunder Bay has a variety of cultural and community centers for the Finnish, Scandinavian, Italians, Polish, and many more.

Arts are also well-represented by Thunder Bay Symphony Orchestra (which is the only professional orchestra between Winnipeg and Toronto), a professional theatre, a variety of music and arts festivals, museums, and art galleries.  There is also Thunder Pride, an LGBTQ pride parade that has been held annually since 2010.

Numerous sports and recreation facilities, city parks, and community centers also keep the locals busy and engaged.  It’s impressive how much this isolated city has to offer!

One of the area’s natural highlights is Kakabeka Falls, the second highest waterfall in Canada at 130 feet.  We chose to take the tour that visited these falls, and it was well worth it. 

We walked across the bridge (see previous photo) to see the view from the other side. This is the view from the middle of the bridge.

We also visited Fort William Historical Park, one of the largest living history sites in North America.  Although this is a replica, they do a great job depicting the original inland headquarters for the North West Company, the world’s largest fur trading enterprise.  Our costumed tour guide, a university history student, taught us about what life was like at the fort in the 1800’s.  We were split into small groups, and ours visited the Canoe Shed, Fur Stores, Apothecary, Kitchen & Bakery, and the garden.  I managed to slip away for a few minutes  and pop in to see a few others on my own.

These massive canoes were used to transport furs from Thunder Bay to Montreal.
Seeing these real furs turned my stomach!
We got taste these fresh baked breads right out of the oven.

To conclude our tour, we returned to the city to take in the view of Lake Superior.

Next up: Splendid Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan

ROAD TRIP DAY 12: FALLIN’ FOR NIAGARA FALLS

During our 3-1/2 hour drive this morning, we left Ohio, passed through the northwest corner of Pennsylvania, and buzzed around Buffalo, New York, before landing in Niagara Falls, Canada.

The Rex Motel where we will spend three nights was our final destination, and we were pleased with our choice. I wondered how a little motel could land a #1 ranking on Trip Advisor, but when we arrived, we learned why so many people raved about this best-value accomodation in Niagara Falls. It’s owned and managed by the warmest, sweetest couple who want to bend over backwards to make their guests feel welcome. We received a lot of helpful tips about the area after we checked in, and when we opened the door to our room, we smiled with delight. Each room at the motel has a different ethnic theme, and we arrived in Venice, Italy. Very cute, spotlessly clean, and well-priced. Perfect.

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The falls are just a short drive away, so we headed downtown to catch our first glimpse. To sum it up in one word: WOW! 34 million gallons of water flow over these falls each MINUTE, and it’s an amazing spectacle to see.

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More photos and travel tales to come on this amazing sight!

AU REVOIR, QUEBEC!

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On both sides of the walled Old City, Quebec is a very pleasant, attractive, and clean city; and, we always felt safe walking through the streets wherever we went. It is quite hilly, though, and I am now paying for hiking up and down those steep inclines! If you have arthritis in your hips and you visit Quebec City, don’t say I didn’t warn you!

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The incline is so steep leading down to the Old Port, we walked down; however, after a full day of walking, we chose to take the inclinator back up. It was well worth the visit, though, as you can see below.

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Back up top, the Fairmont Hotel and the Old City looked beautiful in the sunlight.

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We thoroughly enjoyed our 2-1/2 days in Quebec City and were sorry to have to leave Canada. U.S. Masters Summer Nationals was next on my swimming competition plate, though, and it was time to continue on to College Park, Maryland.

How ironic that of all the people we spoke with in French Canada, the only one who couldn’t speak English was the taxi driver who took us to the airport! Seeing our luggage upon arrival, though, he pulled only two words out of his extremely limited English vocabulary: “Airport or train station?” And, off we went.

Somehow, in his French and my English, we were able to communicate perfectly fine. I had forgotten to photograph my Canadian currency (something I do in every country I visit), so I pulled out a $20 and photographed it on my leg. I conveyed to our driver that their $20 note was prettier than our $20 bill. He went on to comment on the value of their currency compared to ours and how it has fluctuated over the years. I didn’t understand a word he said, but we were sure we understood exactly what he said. Funny how sign language and facial expressions can be a wonderful substitute for understandable words.

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By the time we arrived at the airport, our discussion of economics had developed quite animated; however, it was time to say “au revoir.”

We both look forward to the day we return to Quebec City and are welcomed by our next French-speaking taxi driver with a hearty, “Bonjour!”

QUEBEC: OUI, OUI!

There was one place I felt completely at home among an entire group of French speaking locals: the pool. Lap swimming etiquette is the same throughout the world, and it took no time at all to size up the situation when I arrived for a morning training session. Lanes were designated by speed, and although I can’t read French, I knew what the red, yellow, and green signs meant: no-go, slow-go, and go-go! I hopped into the lane with the green sign (for fast swimmers) and fit right in with three swimmers who knew what they were doing (circle swimming counter-clockwise). We all went about our business and were right in sync, never getting in each others’ way.

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Two of us ended our session at the same time, and we got into a conversation. He spoke to me in French, and I replied, “Parlaz-vous anglais?” In perfect English, he repeated his question, “Are you new here? I’ve never seen you before.”

After explaining that I was American and had competed at the Masters World Championships, he welcomed me to Quebec and said, “I may be partial, but I think Quebec is the most beautiful city in North America. You are really going to enjoy it!” I don’t think I will ever forget that conversation, because it was the end of that day I came to the same conclusion.

San Diego, the city I called home for 24 years is wonderful in so many ways, and San Francisco is magical. Portland and Seattle are two beautiful cities, and I absolutely loved Chicago. Savannah is incredibly charming and picturesque, and although New York is HUGE, it also has a place on my favorite cities list.

In Canada, Vancouver topped the list for me and Bruce—until we stepped under the arch of the walled Old City of Quebec. It was love at first sight.

During our two full days in Quebec, Bruce and I enjoyed our quickly-established routine of swimming in the morning and sightseeing in the afternoon. While he lounged in the apartment, I made the five-minute walk to the community pool for the morning lap swimming session. (U.S. Master Swimming Summer Nationals was coming up in just a few days, so it was important to keep a feel for the water after Worlds concluded.)

This facility was excellent. Not only was it free (thanks to the taxpayers), it was clean as a whistle and well-maintained. The locker rooms were large and well-equipped, and the 25-meter pool was kept at a perfect temperature.

After my swim, I was curious to see who was pictured on the wall next to the posted information. As it turned out, it was the local Masters team, and I recognized several of the swimmers from World Championships!

Following my morning swim sessions, we ventured into the Old City and Old Port to explore.

The iconic centerpiece of the Old City is the Fairmont Hotel. Below are some photos I shot of the hotel and a parade we enjoyed the previous afternoon. It was a bit gloomy; however, we were fortunate to have perfect weather the remainder of our trip.

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Our first meal in Quebec was at Casse-Crepe Breton, a highly rated and reasonably priced recommended on my go-to travel site, http://www.TripAdvisor.com . We enjoyed our crepes there so much, we returned for more on our last day.

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Ditto for our pitas at La Galette Libonnaise, a tiny takeaway tucked in between posh restaurants on swank Grand-Allee est. We each tried a different pita during our two visits, so we tasted four in all. It was difficult to choose a favorite, because they were all so delicious!

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In my next post, I will share more about our Quebec experience. Until then, au revoir!

QUEBEC CITY: EXQUISITELY BEAUTIFUL!

Riding the train from Montreal to Quebec City was a very relaxing and enjoyable way to begin our remaining three days in Canada. Rather than book a hotel room in Quebec, we again opted to rent an apartment, this time at http://www.airbnb.com .

Melanie and Angus were there to greet us upon arrival, an easy task for them since their home was located just above our rental. Immediately, we knew we had made the right choice, because they were as warm and gracious as could be, and their apartment was as cozy and comfortable as we could hope for. What a perfect way to begin our visit in Quebec, the city that topped my bucket list for several years!

Quickly, we checked out the amenities, hung up our clothes, and off we went to explore the city. A short walk up the stairs and there we were at Rue Saint-Jean, the street that would take us to the Old City, just a ten-minute walk away.

Along the way were many inviting restaurants, shops, markets, and even a chocolatier with a chocolate museum!

My heart skipped a beat and my eyes lit up, though, when we arrived at the walls surrounding the Old City. I couldn’t wait to explore what awaited us on the other side.

Quebec City, the capital of Quebec perched on the hills above the Saint Lawrence River, is one of the oldest settlements in North America. French explorer Jacques Cartier built a fort at the site in 1535. That was a long time ago!

To us Americans, any structure that is more than 100 years old is old. In Quebec, homes at the Old Port dated back to the early 1600’s and appeared no worse for the wear. They just don’t build ‘em like they used to! (Too bad the Atlanta Braves don’t subscribe to that point of view, because they are abandoning Turner Field for a new stadium. Turner field was built for the Olympics in 1996 and still looks perfectly fine!)

Being in Quebec felt like being back in France. In addition to the beautiful European architecture of the Old City, about 95% of the city’s inhabitants are native French speakers.

Many Americans would find that intimidating or uncomfortable, but I am like a magnet when it comes to foreign cultures. Drop me in the middle of anywhere foreign and I love the challenge of communicating with the locals and making myself at home.

I don’t speak French, but it didn’t take much effort to learn a few simple phrases that proved to be all that was needed to enjoy our stay in Quebec. Check this out on Trip Advisor; it’s all you will need if you visit Quebec: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Travel-g153339-s604/Canada:Important.Phrases.html

“Bonjour! Parlez-vous anglais?” Asked with a smile, the locals unfailingly responded in perfect English. We never once experienced the unfriendliness that Americans often speak about when it comes to the French or French Canadians. Avoid playing the “ugly American” role, and Quebec City is thoroughly enjoyable.

The following are a few of the photos I shot in Quebec City. Visit http://www.ExquisiteCards.fototime.com to see more, and check back for my next post for more about Quebec City.

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THE STREETS OF MONTREAL

Given the worn-out condition of my legs after a full day of sightseeing during my free day at Masters Swimming World Championships (and a rotten race time in my 400 IM the following day because of it), we decided to save most of the remainder of our sightseeing for after the completion of Worlds. We had already signed up for a walking tour after my morning race, though, so what the heck. You only live once, right?

Off we went to meet our guide for an afternoon walk through Old Montreal, the Old Port, and the underground city. It was a beautiful day for a walking tour, and we thoroughly enjoyed hearing about the sights along the way.

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We were most fascinated by the underground tunnels that connect shopping malls, apartment buildings, condos, offices, museums, universities, seven Metro stations, two commuter train stations, a bus terminal, and the hockey arena. Whew! In all, these air conditioned and lit tunnels are spread over more than 12 km (4.6 square miles)! Many are so wide they have shops on both sides of the passage.

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Colorful paint added life to this otherwise bleak hallway connecting the underground city to one of the Metro train stations.

Winters are so brutal in Montreal that 500,000 people use the underground city every day to escape the cold and snow. During our stay in Montreal, the weather was too gorgeous to spend much of our time down there.

Our last full day in Montreal was spent exploring the Mont Royal neighborhood and surrounding area. My camera got a lot of use that day, and our legs put on some miles!  To see more photos of Montreal, visit:  www.ExquisiteCards.fototime.com .

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