My first impression of Pamplona was how pleasurable it was to explore on foot.  The old city center had a great vibe, and I especially enjoyed walking the fortified walls that date to the 1500’s.

Never heard of this Spanish city?  I’ll bet you have heard of the “running of the bulls.”  Pamplona is where the most famous running of the bulls takes place for one week in July, during the Festival of San Fermin.  Dating to the medieval period, the festival originated when cattle merchants came into town with their cattle and bullfighting became part of the tradition.  There were also other cultural events added to the festival, but it wasn’t until the 17^th century that bull running made its debut as an organized event.

During the running of the bulls, hundreds of (crazy, in my opinion) people run in front of six bulls and another six steers down a half mile stretch of narrow streets in a section of Pamplona, ending at the bullring, where the bulls meet their demise.  Why do they do this?  Your guess is as good as mine, but machismo bragging rights probably tops the list of this traditional—but very dangerous—cultural event.  Since 1910, fifteen people have been killed during the event.  Every year, 50-100 people are injured during the run due to falls.

Our group met with Gorka, a local man who used to run with the bulls before he got smart and quit.  Asked why he chose to run in the first place, he said it was a way to overcome his fears.  Although runners are required to be at least 18 years old, identifications weren’t checked when he did his first run at 17.  It was interesting listening to his experiences running with the bulls and seeing pictures of him during his runs.

Although bull running and bullfighting has been met with a growing backlash, even though the sport is protected by the constitution as part of Spain’s cultural heritage.  In a recent poll, 60% of Spaniards said they were opposed to bullfighting.  I’m with that 60%.

(For all photos, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Sampling the cuisine of Pamplona:

Next up: SOUTHWEST FRANCE, NORTHERN SPAIN & PORTUGAL #12: WALKING THE BEGINNING OF THE CAMINO DE SANTIAGO