I’m big on taking notes when I travel, but I need to remember to read them thoroughly before I post a blog! I just now read that those “moonrise” and “sunset” pictures in my last post were actually moonset and sunrise pictures I shot on this day.  (That’s what I get for continually forgetting to reset the day and time on my camera before traveling!)

Anyway, breakfast was a treat this morning as we enjoyed the beautiful view as well as a buffet that included a warm Marraqueta (traditional Chilean bread) with delicious fresh guacamole and cheese—a common Chilean breakfast. 

Happily fortified, we were off for a brief stop to photograph the palifitos we had visited the previous day.  (We will see more later in the afternoon.)

(For all photos, especially panoramas, click on the image for a full screen view.)

Next, we were off to the Rilan Peninsula for our Day in the Life adventure, beginning with a visit to the main square to see the Church of St. Mary, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a National Monument of Chile. 

Keeping with our buena onda tradition, Andrea gathered us for another cheesy group photo:

Now, this next shot was something I had never done before.  We played follow the leader—in this case, our local guide, Daniel.  As soon as Andrea panned past us, we quickly followed Daniel behind Andrea and got back in front of the camera—the reason you are seeing double!

While the others went inside to explore the church further, I hoofed it up the hill to take a closer look at houses I had seen on the bus ride to the square.  I had been captivated by the artistically cut house shingles since arriving on Chiloe Island, and I wanted to see more.

When I returned to the church, I had just enough time to take a quick look at the interior before we walked across the square to Isle and Raul’s home and farm.

Our “Day in the Life” experience with them was a day to remember!  We first gathered in the fogon—a covered structure separated from the house—where family and friends meet to share mate or tea and socialize.  It was a wonderful opportunity to learn about Isle and Raul’s life on the farm and hear their perspective on how their traditional ways of life are being threatened due to politics, technology, “progress,” the economy, and salmon farming.  Now that Chile is the second-largest producer of salmon in the world, it has had a huge impact on their community. 

Another possible threat (or benefit, depending on which side of the debate you are on) to the island is the bridge that is going to be built to connect the island to the mainland. Will the increase in traffic, pollution, and tourism affect the people and Chilote traditions on Chiloe Island?

It was time for Isle to start preparing our lunch, a traditional meal called a curanto, so the group pitched in.  Curanto is a stew—this one including mussels, sausage, meat, potatoes, and greens that is cooked in a huge pot.  The group also prepared chapalele, which are potato dumplings that are wrapped in plastic wrap before they are added to the pot to be cooked.

One of the most important Chilote traditions is the “minga,” which is sharing essential tasks. A minga is a gathering of friends and acquaintances to roof a house (or even move a house!), build a fence, harvest a field of potatoes, or another project that requires a lot of labor.  The reward?  Curanto!  It reminds me of back in college when buddies helped each other move apartments or out of the dorm, except pizza and beer was the reward.

Meanwhile, Raul gave us a tour of the farm, which wasn’t just an ordinary farm.  Everywhere I turned, it was a feast for the eyes—at least my eyes!  I am always in awe of the creativity of crafters, and I love to see (and sometimes purchase) the folk art and crafts of the countries I visit—especially if I can interact with the artist or crafter rather than purchasing from a souvenir shop.  Between Isle and Raul, they seemed to make everything!  From knitted wool clothing and baskets, to wood carving and models, to hand-built food processors and presses; to… just everything!  I was simply in awe.

After helping Raul dig up some potatoes, he took us on a little nature walk through his property to see his life-size wood carvings.  Of course, he built his own bridge across a pond as well as the walkway.  Just look at this man’s talent!  His carvings depict famous mythological characters that are very much a part of the Chilote culture.

While the curanto finished cooking, Raul taught us how to play rayuela, a traditional Chilean game similar to bocce or horseshoes, except tejo (small disks) are used.  We also enjoyed a pisco sour, which became a popular drink among our buena onda group!

Our visit with Isle and Raul concluded with our sharing of the curanto for a wonderful lunch of good food, good company, and music performed by Raul and Daniel.  It was such an enjoyable experience!

We weren’t done yet, though!  After departing Rilan, we returned to Castro and hopped on a boat (for just our group) to go see more palafitos.

What a fabulous and very memorable day!

Next up:  ARGENTINA & CHILE #11: PHOTOGENIC PENGUINS AT PUNIHUIL